April 13, 2022
- Start: Jacob Lake (mile 754.8)
- End: Stateliness Campground/Utah Border (mile 781.6)
- Distance: 26.8 trail miles + 2.6 miles roadwalking (29.4 miles total)
We spent one final night sleeping at the Jacob Lake Inn and then it was time to get up and get going. We had a trail to finish. The AZT was calling. But not before another hot breakfast as the motel’s diner to fill our bellies.
Barb and Ian (the bikepackers) joined us for breakfast and then we said our goodbyes and set off into the cold, crisp air to make our way back to the trail around 9:30 am.
Snow still carpeted the ground for much of our 2.6 mile roadwalk back to the trail, and it was so cold that I was wearing my hiking clothes, plus rain pants, my puffy jacket, beanie hat, and gloves. But the sun was out, so I hoped the day would eventually warm up enough that I could strip off some of my outer layers eventually.
BACK ON THE TRAIL
Volt and I were only planning to hike 20-ish miles today and then we planned to finish up in the trail tomorrow by noon. Volt’s feet were still super sore from the nearly 50 miles of roadwalking up Highway 67 after the north rim, and neither of us in a huge rush to get to the terminus.
Meanwhile, Elliot was going to try to hammer nearly 30 miles in a single day and see if he could get to the state line today. He had to get back to Canada and return to his job soon. That’s the main reason he only hiked the southern half of the trail in 2021 and had to return for the northern half this year. He had four weeks of time off at a time. So he had to get a move on.
Once we finished the roadwalk and reached the soft trail with its intermittent patches of snow, we each found our separate paces. I think all three of us were ready to hike solo again after being locked indoors together for the last 40 hours. It wasn’t that we didn’t enjoy each other’s company. It’s just that we all needed to process the myriad of feelings washing over us as the realization that the adventure was nearly over near settled in.
A trail’s worth of emotions was flowing over me as I hiked north. There was just so much to process. The sadness about the imminent end of this adventure. The pride in what my body had accomplished over nearly 800 miles. The gratitude over meeting such awesome people along this journey. And the admiration of this phenomenal desert and mountain landscape’s harsh beauty.
A BIG PUSH
By lunchtime, the trail was becoming easier and easier. We were continuously losing elevation as we hiked from Jacob Lake’s 7,925 feet down toward the Utah border, which rested somewhere below 5,000 feet elevation.
The three of us stopped for lunch near a wildlife tank, lounging in the sunshine and trying to warm our bodies in the chilly air. We were now on the edge of a burn area, where all the remaining trees were charred black and the the snow had all but disappeared under the cloudless blue sky.
We were making such good time on these final miles that even Volt was tossing about the idea of hiking all the way to Stateline Campground today and just finishing the trail. But whether that would really happen would remain to be seen. Who knew what lie ahead? There could be lots of rocks to endure. Or we could continue with the easy miles and mostly flat terrain. Only time would tell.
Navigating through the burn area left behind from the 2020 Magnum Fire was more mentally challenging than physical. The massive fire burned more than 71,000 acres through the forest, and the trail had all but disappeared in places so we had to rely on the infrequent cairns built by others navigating before us.
We emerged from the burn area by early afternoon, and the Arizona Trail transitioned once again. This time to a distinct rust orange ribbon surrounded by dense scrub brush and junipers. Rather than black, the landscape was blanketed in shades of green across the plateau.
As the miles ticked by and the hiking continued to be easy, I actually began to consider the possibility that I might actually be able to reach the AZT’s northern terminus today. If I made to the next wildlife tank by 6 pm, it would only be another four miles to the border. It was possible I could get there by nightfall.
And so that was my new goal. I would hike strong and fast, just see if I could reach the wildlife tank by that time hack. If it worked out, then the option of continuing to Utah was on the table. If not, I’d just make camp after filling up with water for the very last final time of the trail, and amble on in tomorrow.
VERMILLION CLIFFS
As luck would have it, I arrived at the wildlife tank at 5:42 pm. Eighteen minutes ahead of my self-imposed deadline. Elliot was already there, and was eating an early dinner. The decision to finish the trail today now seemed inevitable. This would be our biggest mileage day of the entire trail – nearly 30 miles total.
We spent the final four miles leapfrogging with each as Vermillion Cliffs National Monument dominated the views to our north. The closer we got, the more magical is seemed as the red rock cliffs glowed in the warm rays of the setting sun.
As we neared the finish line, the trail took us down a series of switchbacks that seemed to go on forever. But the views ahead of us were so unreal that I could barely blink. It was simply enchanting, and I knew in my heart that we’d made the right decision to push toward the northern terminus today. I cannot imagine seeing this landscape – these beautiful red rocks – at any other time of day than this evening.
It was twilight when we reached the northern terminus and spotted the outline of the tall rock obelisk at the trailhead. My heart sang out in joy. We made it!! We’d actually walked the entire way from Mexico to Utah – through desert and mountains, on trail and asphalt, down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and up again. What a fantastically amazing journey!!
The only task that was left was to sign the final trail register and set up our tents. Then we cracked open the mini bottles of crappy wine we’d carried here from Jacob Lake and sat in the gazebo at the trailhead to celebrate this moment! The trail was over and I had to hold back big, fat tears as I hugged Volt and Elliot and whooped loudly under the nearly full moon.
Highlights
- Sharing another hot breakfast at the Jacob Lake inn with Barb & Ian was the perfect way to start my last day on the trail.
- Seeing the Vermillion Cliffs backlit by the setting sun was one of the very best ways to end a thru-hike. It was the cherry on top of a wonderful adventure!
- We finished the AZT!!! I’m so glad I had Volt and Elliot by my side to share in the overwhelming joy of this moment. I think the Arizona Trail may be my new favorite trail!
Challenges
- I was expecting navigation in the snow to be the hardest task of the day, but finding the trail through the burn area was way more difficult than I would have anticipated. Thank goodness for the cairns.
- It was another very cold day. I ended up wearing my rain pants, jacket, and gloves all day long. But at least it was above freezing and the sun was out to help warm us up.