September 27, 2018
- Route: Palas de Rei to Arzúa
- Distance: 28.9 kilometers (17.92 miles)
Last night’s communal Italian meal was really enjoyable, satisfying my longing for comfort food and good company. I sat across from an interesting Finnish man, who currently lives in Denmark. He was quite the conversationalist, unlike most Finns with their naturally reserved demeanor.
In addition to talking about his Camino experience, he shared a few memories of Lapland, where he grew up. Their long summers where the sun barely set, dense forests where you can wander freely, and the exquisite northern lights in the winter had me (and everyone else around the table) longing to visit.
When dinner was ended, Marcello bid us good night and asked that the last person to leave in the morning lock up. Apparently, he sleeps at his own home nearby instead of at the albergue, and he showed us where to secure the key. I love this confident trust that everyone will do the right thing when asked. It’s something that’s been missing from my life for long time.
Dodging the crowds
As I made my way out of the albergue in the dark this morning, I knew I was missing something. It didn’t take more than a few steps outside to realize I’d left my trekking poles behind on the wall where we all hung them yesterday.
After quickly retrieving them, I started to wonder how different it will feel to walk each day without them after the Camino. My poles have almost become part of me, and I mulled over what other items or habits have similarly changed over these past few weeks. Will I be able to easily transition back to my life before the Camino, or will I forever have that feeling like I’m missing or forgetting something?
While I was pondering this question, I happened upon a bar serving breakfast and began to walk toward the entrance. As I got closer, I could see there was a long row of pilgrims queued up waiting to order, and I realized stopping here would incur a lengthy wait. Rather than get frustrated over all the additional people on the Camino now, I opted to just keep walking.
Within 30 minutes, I found another bar with outdoor seating and far fewer people. I suspect I’m going to need to get used to the crowds these last few days. Simply put, there are so many people everywhere, and I’m not going to escape them.
A lot of kitsch
In addition to the new crowds on the Camino, there are also a few more weird little sights along this stretch. This morning I passed a giant concrete pilgrim sculpture. It had to be over 6 feet tall and just permanently posted on the sidewalk in a small town.
I was initially appalled by how preposterous and garish it looked, but soon realized that this segment of my Camino is going to be a bit like Disneyland. It would be cartoonish and over the top, but still appealing to the masses. I might as well embrace it for what it is. And with that resolved, I spent the rest of the day with my eyes peeled for amusing sights.
Reflections
Although I got a fair bit of amusement from all the silly things I saw today, I also spent a time reflecting on the end of this journey. Tomorrow I’ll be in Santiago. Although it is no longer my final destination, it’s been the goal I’ve been walking toward for several weeks. There’s something thrilling about finally getting there and seeing the place I’ve worked my way across Spain to get to.
As I look back on this journey I’m truly amazed at the diversity of this country. From the Pyrenees Mountains and the wine country to the meseta and big cities mountains, it has been a remarkable 500-mile trek. I met so many unusual and interesting people that I never would have crossed paths with, but for this pilgrimage. I honestly can say I wouldn’t have changed a thing about it.
Some of my favorite highlights on the Camino Frances were:
- Crossing over the Pyrenees and seeing the Basque Country
- Visiting Pamplona and walking down the streets where they hold the running of the bulls
- Gazing out over the vineyards with the ripe grapes ready for harvest
- Visiting the ornate cathedrals in Burgos and Leon
- Looking across the acres and acres of yellow sunflowers
- Appreciating the quiet serenity of the meseta
- Pushing myself to walk 53 kilometers in a single day
- Dining while exotic birds wandered nearby in the garden
- Taking the mountain alternate up into Pradela
- Seeing beautiful murals in the Samos monastery
- All the people I’ve shared meals and conversation with
And, of course, I’m still looking forward to making my way to the Atlantic Ocean. The idea of dipping my toes in the water and seeing the edge of the continent before I finish is spurring me on. But, tomorrow will be all about Santiago!
