September 28, 2018
- Route: Arzúa to Santiago de Compestela
- Distance: 38.5 kilometers (23.87 miles)
It was so hard to sleep last night because I’m finally arriving in Santiago de Compestela today! The hundreds of miles of walking had finally brought me to the city of pilgrims. It doesn’t feel real yet. I know my Camino is going to continue beyond Santiago, but the idea that I’ve made it to “the end” is still beyond comprehension.
Because of my restlessness, I was up near 4:30 and out the front door of the albergue before 5 a.m. I saw no logic is laying there in my bunk until a reasonable hour if I couldn’t sleep. My excitement at getting to Santiago could fuel my walking instead.
The final kilometers of this journey are still a blur. I’m not sure I remember much along the route other than the Monte del Gozo (the mountain of joy). This park that sits on a small hill above Santiago and, on a clear day, it’s your first glimpse of the spires of the cathedral in the distance. There also a large monument at the peak commemorating Pope John Paul II’s own pilgrimage in 1993.
There were large groups gathered in the park when I arrived, and a church choir was joyfully singing religious hymns. It feels bittersweet to be closing in on the end of this pilgrimage. With all these feelings, I’m even more confident now that walking the Camino Finisterre is something I really need to do before ending my odyssey.
Santiago de Compestela
I don’t know whether all the various Camino routes merge together and enter Santiago from the same direction, but the Camino Frances approaches the city from the east. This meant I had to walk through the several kilometers of urban suburbs after descending Monte del Gozo.
Walking through the suburbs wasn’t a new experience (I had to do it in Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, and León), but it was surreal to see all the billboards for fast food and other products along the route. My mind had built up Santiago into this pristine pilgrimage site, but I quickly realized it looked just like all the other big cities I’d passed through on the Camino.
Then I made it to the city’s old town, with its windy, narrow streets. There were shops selling pilgrim-related souvenirs and restaurants. Crowds were everywhere. I felt like I was in a stupor while walking those final meters as I followed at the yellow arrows pointing the way.
Then I turned a final corner, and the square opened up before me. Finally. The cathedral. It was splendid and beautiful, and I had to raise my hand to block the sun so I could take it all in at once. I couldn’t believe I’d finally made it there. I did it!!
I was so overwhelmed by everything around me that I had to just walk away for a bit. Otherwise I might had just stood there for an hour staring upward. Despite all my mental preparation for this moment, I wasn’t ready to take it all in yet. I felt dazed. I needed to sit and rest before coming back to appreciate what this sight represents.
Ok, now I’m ready
After a late lunch and ditching my bag at the hotel, I was finally ready to return to the cathedral. My second visit was better, and I was in the right frame of mind to take everything in and process it appropriately.
After snapping dozens of pictures to capture the intricate beauty of the cathedral, it was time to venture inside. Unlike many other pilgrims, I wasn’t there to pay my respect to the remains of the Apostle James (or any other saints). But, I did plan to enjoy the building’s beautiful architecture – from the barrel-vaulted nave and carved porticos to the burial crypt below the alter.
Why am I standing in line?
After visiting the cathedral, I wandered over to the Pilgrim’s Reception Office, just west of the church square. There I stood patiently in line waiting with hundred of others to present my credencial for inspection and receive my Camino completion certificate.
The Pilgrim’s Office offers two different types of certificates: a Compestela and a Certificate of Distance.
- Compestela – The Compestela is written in Latin and offered to pilgrims who walk a minimum of 100-kilometers (or ride 200 kilometers by bicycle) to the alter of St. James for religious or spiritual reasons.
- Certificate of Distance – A completion certificate written in Spanish and is also offered to pilgrims who traveled the Camino for any purpose, including cultural, physical, or historical reasons. Rather than having a minimum distance like the Compestela, this certificate indicates the total distance the pilgrim walked. In my case, the certificate would show that I began my journey in St. Jean Pied de Port and walked the Camino Frances, with the official distance on my certificate.
I’m not sure why I felt the need to get my distance certificate at the end of this journey. I don’t need an additional piece of paper in my life. I already have my credencial with all its stamps if I want a souvenir to look back on down the road. And I certainly didn’t need to stand around and pay 3€ for a fancy piece of paper.
Nonetheless, I figured I might look back on this experience someday and wish I’d taken the additional step, so call me a sucker if you will. I waited in line for 90 minutes just to get one.
Celebration time
I felt completely spent after my afternoon adventure and went back to the hotel for a quick siesta. Lucky for me, the Spanish meal schedule accommodates such dormancy, and I was able to relax until nearly 9 p.m.
I finally roused myself out of bed though because my stomach was grumbling. I needed to find myself a feast to celebrate walking the entire Camino Frances. I found an upscale Italian restaurant and treated myself to a savory meal, several glasses of Spanish wine, and even a slice of tiramisu. It was absolutely scrumptious!
Tomorrow it’s on to the Camino Finisterre!
