Sunday, April 20, 2025

  • Start: Acquapendente, Italy
  • End: Lake Bolsena
  • Distance walked: 23.6 km (14.6 miles)
  • Cumulative distance: 270.2 km (167.8 miles)

Although I didn’t originally plan this trek to coincide with any religious holidays, I spent day 10 of the Via Francigena walking on Easter Sunday. In my mind, I’d assumed this major religious holiday would mean everyone staying home to celebrate with their families, but Pasqua (Easter) in Italy is a community event. When I arrived in the resort town of Lake Bolsena at the end of this stage, people were out eating gelato, restaurants were open, and it felt like a giant celebration. I ran into Andreas and Catherine walking by the lake, then went in search of a stamp from Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara (the historic medieval castle in town), before heading to the Santa Cristina Basilica and taking a tour of its unique underground catacombs.

Buona Pasqua (Happy Easter)
I spent the frist hour of the morning walking with Remy (Franch pilgrim)
It was a quiet morning through the countryside, and I’m quickly realizing that I will be arriving in Rome within the week.
Today was an easier mileage day (22.5 km), but there was only one place to stop with any services. I was just grateful they were open today!
Pilgrim markings near San Lorenzo Nuova. After a big climb, I stopped for coffee with Remy, Andreas, Catherine, and a young Danish couple who seemed to be hiking the entire Via Francigena while holding hands!
Interesting sculpture garden near San Lorenzo Nuovo
First sighting of Lake Bolsena in the distance
Back to the forest with my red and white GR waymarkers marking the switchbacks
Easter flowers are in bloom everywhere along the trail
Fields of white flowers
And the ever-present yellow blooming flowers
Lake Bolsena and the town’s medeival fortress in the distance
My most interesting water source of the day
About 4 km before Bolsena, I stopped at this chapel to take in the exquisite historical murals
Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara, the walled fortress built in the 13th and 14th centuries
Heading into the fortress for a stamp and a tour
Picturesque streets of Bolsena
Basilica Santa Christina, where you can tour the underground catacombs (but cannot take photos since it includes human remains)
Basilica Santa Cristina decorated for the Easter Mass
My hotel for the evening was right on Lake Bolsena.

HIGHLIGHTS

  • Flowers seemed to be in bloom everywhere I looked today. Spring officially began a month ago, and it shows!
  • I was pleasantly surprised to see tonight’s stop on the edge of Lake Bolsena bustling with tourists and locals when I arrived. Several of the restaurants were serving Easter dinner specials, but I opted for something new – Japanese food.
  • Touring the Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara fortress and the catacombs at the Santa Cristina Basilica made Bolsena one of my more unique town stops on this trek.

CHALLENGES

  • San Lorenzo Nuevo was the only place to stop for coffee or a break on this stage of the Via Francigena, but at least they were open. I was worried that everything would be closed for Sunday and the Easter holiday.
  • It made me a little sad this evening to realize that I only have 102 miles left to walk to Rome. I could theoretically be there in a mere 5 days. But I’m not sure I’m ready for this Italian journey to end quite yet.