Day 11 on the Via Francigena was Pasqetta (or Easter Monday). It was also my shortest distance day of this trek at just 11.5 miles. But two other memorable events eclipsed this significance. First, Pope Francis died this morning. I’m not sure how this event or the imminent funeral will impact the rest of my trek, which is supposed to end at the Vatican in just a few days. The second shock of the day occurred at the monastery in Montefiascone. I ended up stranded inside a bathroom when the key I used to lock the door inexplicably failed to unlock it. The only other exit was a third-floor window with no ledge. Luckily, I had my fanny pack and cell phone with me, so I was able to call Andreas and Catherine, and they located an Ecuadorian nun and the extra keys to save me!
Saying goodbye to Lake Bolsena as I continue south toward Rome. Today’s options were to walk 11 short miles to Montefiascone (and stay at a monastery with Andreas & Catherine) or hike 22 solo miles into Viterbo. I chose the more social option.After 6km, the Via Francigena sent me deep in the forest and through Parco di Turona – a large nature preserve with trails, waterfalls, and archaeological ruins.This was one of the nicest trails of the Via Francigena, with lots of song birds up in the trees serenading me as I walked by.When I stopped for my first break, I met Paul (from Toronto, Canada), who told me the unfortunate news that Pope Francis died this morning.Just north of Montefiascone, I passed this church with the 100 km stamp, marking 100 kilometers from Rome100 km marker – Pilgrims only need to walk 100 kilometers on the Via Francigena to qualify for a testimonium from the Vatican. This makes Montefiascone a bit like the town of Sarria (on the Camino de Santiago)Walking into Montefiascone under a banner that reads “100 km to St. Peter’s Tomb.”Mural in MontefiasconeTonight’s stay would be at a Benedictine monastery that doubles as a pilgrim ostelloUnfortunately, I got locked inside one of the monastery’s bathrooms when the key I used to lock the door (from the inside) failed to unlock it. I spent a frantic 30 minutes jiggling the key and trying to turn it before admitting defeat and calling for help.Thank goodness Andreas found this nun who located a box of spare keys and saved the day and releasing my from my prison.After regaining my freedom, I went out to explore Montefiascone and the Rocca dei Papi (a medieval fortress), where I climbed the Torre de Pelligrino (Pilgrim’s Tower)Bird’s eye views from the top of the tower with Lake Bolsena in the distanceMore aerial views of Montefiascone and the Basilica di San FlavianoInside the basilicaLooking up at the dome inside the basilicaBack at the monastery, we had a communal pilgrim dinner, and I met a lovely family from Slovakia walking the final 100km of the Via Francigena together. At 9 years old, he’s the youngest pilgrim I’ve met thus far.
HIGHLIGHTS
Today’s meager 18.4 km was a relatively easy distance compared to my long days at the start of the Via Francigena. It was also a warm, sunny day, making me grateful for the shade in the nature preserve and for some cold gelato in town.
Visiting the Rocca dei Papi up on the hilltop in Montefiascone and climbing to the top of the Pilgrims Tower. The views went on for miles and miles.
Staying the night with the nuns in a Benedictine monastery was a unique way to experience the Via Francigena. Plus, I got to meet several more English-speaking pilgrims, including the family from Slovakia.
CHALLENGES
Getting locked in a bathroom was not on my Via Francigena bingo card. Thank goodness I had the forethought to bring my fanny pack and phone with me. Otherwise, who knows how long I might have been stuck in there!
This is the second time I’ve visited a European country when a major leader died. I was also in the UK when Queen Elizabeth died three years ago! It feels like a bit of an omen.
