Via Francigena Day 4: Best Gelato in the World

by | Apr 15, 2025 | Italy, Trail Journals, Via Francigena | 0 comments

Monday, April 14, 2025

  • Start: Gambassi Terme, Italy
  • End: Colle di Val d’Elsa
  • Distance walked: 28.8 km (17.9 miles)
  • Cumulative distance: 104.8 km (65.1 miles)

I decided to split the next 65 kilometers to Siena into two days. Unfortunately, I’d already booked my lodging reservations before I knew the weather forecast was calling for up to 2 inches of rain over the next 36 hours. So I left Gambassi Terme bracing for the next two days to utterly suck. I departed town early (before 7 am), and after a quick stop at a bakery, I spent the first 90 minutes of the day walking with a Dutch pilgrim named Ronald. We parted ways just before the climb to a monastery, where I got my timbro (stamp) for the day. The rain held off until I made my way into the walled town of San Gimignano. After exploring this cute town, I had to try some gelato from Gelateria Dondoli, which bills its gelato as the best in the world. Unfortunately, the rest of the day was spent trudging through the rain in soaking wet shoes until I reached the town of Colle di Val d’Elsa.

Starting the day walking past more wineries
Sadly this winery wasn’t open for tastings at 8 am on a Monday morning
I walked several kilometers with Ronald (pilgrim from the Netherlands)
Muddy paw print. I think this is a raccoon print. But Ronald saw a porcupine (which he called a “giant hedgehog pig”) yesterday, and he thought it might be that.
After parting ways with Ronald, I made my way up to a monastery on a hill. Signs out front asked visitors to remain quiet to avoid disturbing the monks inside. I was also thrilled to discover that the monastery had its own ink stamp (timbro) in a box outside for the pilgrims walking by.
The rain held off for the first few hours of the day as I walked past more vineyards in the countryside.
As I near the town ot San Gimignana, i spotted some terrific blooming trees
Getting into the town of San Grimignano required walking through this dark tunnel
Once I got to the end of the tunnel, I discovered that San Gimignano was another walled city, albeit much smaller than Lucca had been.
Walking around San Gimignano before all the busloads of tourist arrive
What a picturesque town
Naturally, I had to try some gelato even though it was cold out and not even 10 am. I got the saffron-bourbon flavor along with a scoop of the honey-eggnog flavor. Both were exceptional.
This bird fountain in San Gimignano was so whimsical
Heading out of the walled city and back to the Via Francigena as the wind picks up and the rain drops begin to fall
The next stretch of the Via Francigena was quite muddy, and I felt like I had to scrape pounds of mud off my shoes
I also had to cross two creeks today
I was grateful for large, easy-to-follow signs
Olive groves nearby and wildflowers
I’m not sure where this creepy doorway in the hillside went, but I certainly wasn’t going to explore it today.
When I reached the outskirts of Colle di Val D’Elsa, I encountered the Porta Volerrana – an arched portal through a stone wall that looked like a castle
Inside the walls, I made my way through the wet streets of Colle di Val d’Elsa in the pouring rain.

Highlights

  • The town of San Gimignano was so cute and picturesque. I can see why so many tourists flock here during their visits to Tuscany.
  • I haven’t had enough gelato to tell whether the cone I ate this morning from Gelateria Dondoli was the best in the world. But I can say it was absolutely delicious, and I’m glad I tried two of their original flavors.
  • After a day of walking in the rain, I was so glad to stop in a larger town where I’d booked a private room in a small hotel. Taking a hot shower and using a hairdryer felt like the height of luxury.

Challenges

  • The wet trails on today’s stage got super slick and muddy. I watched as one pilgrim ahead of me nearly wiped out during a sharp, muddy descent. I really wish I’d brought some trekking poles for this springtime hiking adventure.
  • I’m grateful I had the morning to talk to Ronald, because the rest of the day was spent in total solitude. I couldn’t even listen to an audiobook on my AirPods because the wind was driving the rain sideways at times.
  • I walked in wet shoes for most of the day and was surprised I didn’t get any blisters. However, my pruney feet are not looking forward to tomorrow’s 22+ miles to Siena in the cold rain.

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