Via Francigena Day 7: Swept Away in Wine Country

by | Apr 18, 2025 | Italy, Trail Journals, Via Francigena | 0 comments

Thursday, April 17, 2025

  • Start: Ponte d’Arbia, Italy
  • End: San Quirico d’Orcia
  • Distance walked: 27 km (16.7 miles)
  • Cumulative distance: 196.5 km (121.8 miles)

The wine country dominated the Via Francigena today. This is where some of Italy’s most popular fine red wines are produced, and there were vineyards everywhere I looked. This scenic stage took me through the walled city of Buonconvento, Torrenieri, and finally San Quirico d’Orcia. And while the terrain was lovely, it was also a super blustery, cold day, and I struggled to stay warm. I stopped for fresh pasta (at lunchtime) with my new French pilgrim acquaintances: Remy, Catherine, and Andreas. Then warmed myself up at the end of the day with a fantastic glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo!

After lots of rain overnight, I was met with dark, moody skies and very cold temperatures as I began the Via Francigena this morning
Walking through the walled city of Buonconvento in search of my first coffee of the morning
A peek of blue sky through the massive portal in Buonconvento’s walled city.
Walking through wine country. The vines here mostly grow Sangiovese grapes.
So beautiful, but it was a blustery and cold April day, and I needed all my warm layers!
Taking in the springtime blooms on the Via Francigena
Although it was only 10:30 and a bit early for a wine tasting, I did stop at this winery for a unique stamp in my credenziale
The winery had interesting covered picnic tables (built to resemble wine casks) for people to enjoy their wine outdoors
Rows and rows of grapes as far as the eye could see
I stopped for lunch in Torrenieri with Remy, Catherine, and Andreas, and ate my first pasta of the trek – Pici Angliona (fresh pasta with tomatoes and garlic)
Whimsical free book library near the entrance of the local grocery store
The remainder of today’s walk to San Quirico d’Orcia was relatively easy, since it followed well-groomed dirt roads or pavement
This Romanesque-style church in San Quirico d’Orcia dates back to the 12th century
The alter inside the church
One of the more unexpected sights in the town was this wooden medieval trebuchet.
San Quirico d’Orcia has a perfect little pilgrim ostello located above the town’s visitor center
After cleaning up, it was time to relax at one of the town’s wine bars with a glass of Montepulciano wine and a book on my Kindle.

HIGHLIGHTS

  • Walking through wine country all day yielded some truly scenic landscapes. The vines were still bare this time of year, but I can only imagine how beautiful they would be in September before the autumn harvest.
  • I truly enjoyed the lunchtime camaraderie with three of the French pilgrims I met last night. Remy is from the south of France, and walking solo, while Andreas and Catherine are a married couple who live in southwest France.
  • After walking past vineyards all day, it was wonderful to stop in a wine bar in San Quirico d’Orcia and enjoy a glass of the local wine at the end of the day.

CHALLENGES

  • Today’s weather was super cold and windy, leaving me feeling windswept with numb cheeks and cold fingertips all day (despite my gloves).
  • My feet are still very tender from the blisters I developed a few days ago on my way into Siena. I’m super glad I found a local pharmacy where I could buy more Compeed bandages to protect the sores while they heal. I have many miles to walk yet before I get to Rome.
  • Thank goodness San Quirico d’Orcia had a small laundromat. I really needed something better than handwashing to get rid of the funky odor emanating from my hiking shirt.

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