Day 8 on the Via Francigena was another 20+ mile day. However, the real adversity lay in the series of detours I had to make due to road construction and bridge outages, plus the need to ford four creeks with my shoes off. After hiking up to an 11th-century castle, I made my way down to Bagno Vignano – an Italian village known for its hot springs and thermal spas. Then it was through the countryside where I leapfrogged with Remy, Catherine, and Andreas all day. The final 10 kilometers of the stage were entirely uphill in the rain to the historic stronghold of Radicofani, where I was met by a local procession at the end of the Tre Ore (Three Hours Agony) service, as part of the Good Friday observation.
Departing San Quirico d’Orcia in the early morning before anyone was in the streets. The first tough climb of the day took me up to the high tower for the Vignoni Alto Castle built around 1000 A.D.Views from the castle before heading down to the town belowCastle walls and yellow blooms that remind my of my state flower (Oregon Grape)This area had so many trails and routes besides the Via Francigena. I’d love to come back and explore.I stopped for coffee in the resort town of Bagno Vignoni – known for its thermal spas and hot springs During my coffee stop in Bagno Vignoni, I had a lovely conversation with an Australian hiker named Linda who walked the Camino Frances the same year as me! What a coincidence.After detouring around some construction on the way out of town, I eventually made it to the pedestrian bridge over the Fiume Orcia which was still very swollen from the heavy rainsUnfortunately, this bridge would require a detour, too! So I had to backtrack 1/2 mile and figure out an alternate route over the river using a nearby auto bridge,This stage was still in wine country, as evidenced by these grape vines and blooming lavender bushesAt the 14.3-kilometer mark, I reached a pilgrim rest area where I met a German hiker named Diana, who is section hiking the GR1 southbound from Sweden to the tip of Italy in one-week increments whenever she has time off work. Talk about persistence!And then the creek crossings began. Most of them were only 10-20 feet across, but deep enough to force me to remove my shoes over and over again.Andreas took this photo of me crossing one of the creeks (with my shoes in hand)The hilltop and tower roughly 10 miles in the distance is Radicofani – tonight’s destinationAs I started the next section along the river, a young Danish couple was walking back toward me. They’d made it as far as the bridge, only to discover it was washed out. So we spent the next few miles detouring onto a narrow road with no shoulder.As the rain started, I stopped to feed these two very muddy horses one of my carrots.Finally, at the end of this 21-mile day, I reached the end of the long climb into Radicofani, where I could see the tower I’d been looking at for hoursThe town holds a Tre Ore (Three Hours of Agony) service on Good Friday, which commemorates the three hours Jesus spent on the crossScupture of Jesus lying in rest after the crucifixionOne of the local churches is looking very festive for the upcoming Easter holiday!The butcher shop in Radicofani prepping for Easter
HIGHLIGHTS
I met several new English speakers during my stops today. Diana’s journey on the GR1 was fascinating. What an adventurous soul. I can only imagine how excited she must feel as she walks south through Italy, closing in on her goal.
Heading through the 11th-century castle was a lovely introduction to the day. I definitely enjoyed my time around San Quirico d’Orcia, and seeing all the trails around the area has me eager to return here someday.
The Good Friday celebration in Radicofani was really something special to witness. I didn’t originally plan this trek to coincide with Easter, but I’m glad that it does.
CHALLENGES
Today was all about flexibility and detours: the road construction in Bagno Vignoni, the pedestrian bridge closure over the Fiume Ocria, an unexpected 2-mile roadwalk due to the washed-away bridge, and multiple barefoot creek crossings.
The rain held off until the final three steep miles of climbing up to the village of Radicofani. Unfortunately, I assumed the end was closer than it was, and I got soaking wet because I was too lazy to stop and pull my jacket out of my pack.
