Saturday, April 19, 2025
- Start: Radicofani, Italy
- End: Acquapendente
- Distance walked: 15.3 km (9.5 miles) + 9 km bus ride
- Cumulative distance: 246.7 km (153.2 miles)
Day 9 of my Via Francigena trek began amid the clouds and fog surrounding the hilltop village of Radicofani. Then it was mostly downhill walking toward the Torrente Rigo river valley and the town of Centeno. After leaving Tuscany and entering the Lazio region, I had a big choice to make. My guidebook strongly cautioned pilgrims against walking the remaining 9 kilometers of the stage between Centeno and Acquapendente because the route follows the Via Cassia, a notoriously busy highway with fast-moving traffic, sharp curves, and no shoulder to walk on. This left me with the option of either (a) taking the bus for the remaining 9 kilometers or (b) following a muddy detour through flooded fields and turning my 15.3-kilometer walk into a 34-kilometer day. I chose the easier route (and so did Remy, Andreas, and Catherine), and our bus driver refused to let us pay the fare. In the end, we got a free bus ride and a free afternoon to explore this picturesque town.
HIGHLIGHTS
- Having such a short stage (15.3 kilometers) and the entire afternoon to explore Acquapendente felt like an absolute luxury. I tried to make the best of my fresh legs and see as many things as I could during my stay.
- My visit to the cathedral was perfectly timed. It felt as if I was being personally serenaded with chamber music as the choir practiced for tomorrow’s Easter Sunday service.
- The extra time in town also meant I got to spend time with Remy, Catherine, and Andreas. I’ve joined a little pilgrim family, and I’m grateful for their generosity in speaking English around me, even though they could have just stuck to their native French.
CHALLENGES
- As I was making my way toward Centeno on some dirt roads, two large farm dogs came running toward me, barking and refusing to let me pass. Finding a detour around them and rejoining the Via Francigena was a bit unpleasant.
- Tomorrow is Easter Sunday, and I’m a bit worried that nothing will be open. As a result, I booked myself into a hotel on the edge of Lake Bolsena. The hotel will be my most expensive stay on the trek, but it’s better than trying to find last-minute accommodations on a major holiday.
- Taking the bus today felt like cheating, but I had to remind myself that this was the primary option the Via Francigena guidebook recommended. It’s better to be safe and alive than to be a “hiking purist” with a continuous footpath from point A to point B.