Primitivo Day 1: A Sweaty Start

by | May 1, 2025 | Camino Primitivo, Spain, Trail Journals | 0 comments

Wednesday – April 30, 2025

  • Start: Oviedo, Spain
  • End: Grado
  • Distance: 27.2 km (17 miles)
  • Lodging: Albergue la Quintana

Before I could leave Oviedo on day 1 of the Camino Primitivo, I needed to make my way to the start line: the 9th-century Gothic cathedral in the center of town. It was much warmer than I expected today, and my hiking clothes were drenched in sweat within a matter of hours. I decided to walk the first stage of the Primitivo exactly as my guidebook proposed, from Oviedo to Grado. However, I’m going to have to pick up the pace in the near future because I only have 12 days to complete this Camino (not the 13 days recommended by the guidebook). By lunchtime, I’d seen 25+ pilgrims, and I’m beginning to realize the Camino Primitivo may be busier than I expected. It’s a good thing I made a reservation at an albergue in Grado this evening because it was 100% full!

Just after sunrise, I head to the start of the Camino Primitivo, the Catedral de San Salavador in the center of Oviedo
My first Camino marker
Giant billboard-sized signs on buildings in Oviedo remind me that this is the original Camino route
This is my first time in Oviedo and I love the distinct character of the town
Passing by the more modern Basilica de San Juan el Real, which I find to be even more charming than the Catedral de San Salvador.
After hiking past the subliminal messaging from this mural, I felt compelled to stop for a café con leche. This bar provided the first stamp in my credential, but it was a bit anticlimactic. Their stamp was nothing more than a plain ink address stamp.
As with any big city, finding the markers during the walk through Oviedo was a bit challenging. But by the time I reach the outskirts of towns, I was in no doubt this was the right track.
Looking at the green mountains south of Oviedo
Heading into the lush green landscape, I was grateful for some shade. Today was warm and humid, and my hiking shirt was drenched with sweat.
Old washing station turned into a water point
I stopped to eat one my snacks and rest at the picnic benches outside this cute chapel
Primitivo wildlife
It looks like this horreo was rebuilt to be a little cottage
Everything is in bloom on this Spring camino route
Lovely walking
A grove of blooming apple trees remind me that I’m in Asturias
Apple tree
Heading over the swift moving water of the Rio Nalón river on my way to Grado
The railroad tracks that parallel the river remind me of the Columbia River Gorge back home (albeit on a smaller scale)
My albergue this evening was this brightly colored building in Grado. As large as the albergue was, every bed was full! Was this because I’m staying at the end of stage one (instead of off-stage)? Or is it foreshadowing a busy, busy Camino?

Highlights

  • It feels good to be back in Asturias. I love this region of northern Spain, and I’m looking forward to drinking one of its local products: sidre (hard apple cider).
  • Everything was in bloom as I walked along the Camino today – flowers, trees, and plants. It’s the last day of April, and springtime is definitely in full swing.
  • But after three weeks of walking in Italy, and constantly fumbling with Google Translate to understand anything, it’s really nice to be back in a country where the language is very familiar.

Challenges

  • My body was still getting used to the quirks of being in Spain. Oviedo is still in the Central European Time Zone (like I’d been on the Via Francigena), but I’m now so far west that sunrise and sunset were a full hour later than I’m used to.
  • Today’s forecast was a full 15-20 degrees warmer than usual. It was 70°F by 10 am, and I was sweating like a fiend as I hiked west toward Grado.
  • Every bed at this evening’s large albergue was filled. It feels nice to have so many pilgrims surrounding me after the relatively quiet trek on the Via Francigena. But this many pilgrims might also mean a challenge to find places to sleep. I’m going to make albergue reservations at least one day in advance until I figure out how busy this route actually is.

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Primitivo Day 2 >>

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