Primitivo Day 10: Pilgrims Everywhere

by | May 10, 2025 | Camino Primitivo, Spain, Trail Journals | 0 comments

Friday – May 9, 2025

  • Start: As Seixas, Spain
  • End: Arzúa
  • Distance: 29.6 km (18.5 miles)
  • Lodging: Albergue San Francisco

Today was my hardest day mentally on the Camino Primitivo, even though it was neither the longest distance day nor the hilliest day of walking. I felt as if I hit a mental roadblock. Part of it was the realization that every step after lunch was a repeat of a prior Camino. Once I reached the town of Melide, I was walking the same route I followed on the Camino Francés in 2019. And then I would also join up with the Camino del Norte in Arzúa this evening. There seemed to be pilgrims everywhere now that I was within 100 kilometers of Santiago (the minimum distance required to walk on a Camino route to receive a compostela). I realize not everyone has the time or ability to walk farther, but the influx of new pilgrims always shocks my senses when it happens.

The morning started in the fog, which was an apt metaphor for my mood.
I’m coming to the realization that this journey will soon be over.
As I crest my first hill of the day, I turned back to look at the dramatic sky as the sun tries to break through the clouds
I spent most of my morning trying to seize the little moments, like stopping to listen to this songbird
An reveling in the blooming flowers lining the Camino
The moments of solitude on this journey are coming to an end (and so are the dry conditions).
Walking into Melide and joining the Camino Francés
It’s been 6 years since I last saw Melide
This is where I began to see more places serving pulpo (octopus), too.
Soon the pilgrim parade began
Even though I was walking faster than most of my fellow pilgrims, I just seemed to be bouncing into large groups of people
Pilgrim tour groups were now joining the route via bus
I knew this would only get worse once I reached Arzúa, where three Camino routes converged.
Welcome to Arzúa – only 39 kilometers left until Santiago
Arriving at my albergue, I was met with more evidence of how crowded the route was becoming (transferred bags waited to be reunited with their pilgrims)
The skies began to darken dramatically this evening
This culminated in a heavy rainstorm and even some hail. The electricity went out three times, leaving me wondering whether the major power outage at the start of this hike would be repeated at the end of this journey.

Highlights

  • I did my best today to stop and listen to the birds, take in all the blooming flowers, and watch the wind blowing the leaves on the tall eucalyptus trees. This is only my second springtime Camino, and I really appreciate the season.
  • I reached my first bar for a coffee break at 9:05 am, and discovered they opened at 9 am. Perfect timing. I’m so glad I didn’t have to walk 19 km for coffee like yesterday.
  • The moody and dramatic sky made for some great photos today. I worried I might not make it to town before the afternoon storm, but I was safely ensconced in my albergue when the heavy rain and hail began around 5 pm.

Challenges

  • Finding serenity was difficult today. I felt as if I were bouncing between clusters of pilgrims all afternoon. I did my best to pass each logjam quickly and walk between the groups, but I still felt very frustrated.
  • When I reached Melide, I felt like I was running out of gas. I stopped for an extended break at an outdoor cafe and had a drink and a snack, but it didn’t seem to help. I hope I’m not coming down with the flu or something worse.
  • I’ve come to the sad realization that the already busy Camino Primitivo was about to explode with pilgrims once my route merged with two other Camino routes. But it’s also a sign that I’ll be in Santiago soon.

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Primitivo Day 11 >>

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