Saturday – May 10, 2025
- Start: Arzúa, Spain
- End: Lavacolla
- Distance: 29 km (18 miles)
- Lodging: Albergue a Fabrica
Today was my next-to-last day on the Camino Primitivo. I woke up 39 kilometers from Santiago, and I could have absolutely walked the entire distance if I really wanted to get there today. But I’ve rushed toward the finish line on too many of my prior Caminos. I decided to take a different approach this time. I would walk just beyond the airport today, and stop 10 kilometers short of town. Even though I spent almost the entire 18 miles walking in the rain, my relaxed approach worked well, and I was even rewarded with a bit of trail magic.
Highlights
- I bumped into Nacho when I stopped for my morning café con leche. While we waited for the rain to slow, he showed me photos of his three kids, told me about his life in Spain, and offered to buy me a second cup of coffee.
- This section of the Camino felt so familiar, with its murals and landmarks. I’m glad I slowed down to enjoy them instead of racing toward Santiago with my head down as if I were on a mission.
- At dinner, I shared a table with an interesting Swiss pilgrim named Terry who’d just finished his Camino and was walking back to the airport to fly home tomorrow. Although we had some language challenges (his first language was French), we both made a valiant effort to converse in our mediocre Spanish. He also insisted on buying my dinner to celebrate the Camino. My second bit of trail magic today!
Challenges
- There was steady rain almost the entire walk from Arzúa to Lavacolla, and the temperature never really warmed up today. After 18 miles, I was eagerly looking forward to a warm shower and dry clothes this evening.
- Unfortunately, I arrived at my albergue behind a slew of pilgrims. There were already eight people waiting in line to check in ahead of me, and the woman running the desk was in no hurry to get us settled.