On day 2 of the Camino Primitivo, I left Grado in a thick, humid fog left by the overnight rain. The trail climbed about 350 meters to El Friesnu, where I met a herd of cows at the summit. As I dropped down toward the next valley, the clouds finally cleared, allowing me to see the landscape around Cornelian. I initially worried that everything in town might be closed today, as it’s a national holiday (Labor Day), but the bars and cafes were open. Some of today’s more interesting sights included several kiwi farms, fig trees, salmon spawning signs, the San Salvador monastery, and the waterfalls at Cascada de Nonaya. The day ended with a long uphill climb to some windmills, followed by a lovely evening with some pilgrims (and our host Nicolás) at a small rural albergue.
Departing Grado in the dense fog left behind by last night’s rain. The route splits here, and I would be taking the high road Greeting the Spanish cows (and baby calves) at the crest of the climbAs I dropped below the clouds, I could finally see the river valley and the village of Cornella in the distanceHeading through the some muddy fieldsWalking along a flowing stream in the lush green landscapeAn interesting stone building next to the Camino with a yellow arrow painted on one of the exterior wallsCatching up with the pilgrims heading toward town as we cross under A-63, the major inland autovía through the province of AusturiasI stopped to check out this church in the tiny hamlet of DorigaAt first glance, these vines might appear to be grapes, but I know better.The vines hold tiny kiwi fruit that are just starting to bud. Kiwi grows extremely well in Asturias and Galicia, with its cool, humid climate. Crossing one of the blue bridges into the town of Cornellana, which sits at the confluence of the río Narcea and río NonayaSigns near the river about the salmon lifecycleCamino and CorreosAs I reached my first town, I was happy to find that the bars and cafes were open despite the holiday. I stopped to enjoy a café con leche, and met Alexandra, a Polish pilgrim who spoke excellent English but had some very opinionated political views.On the way out of town, the Camino passed the Monasterio de San Salvador, built in the 11th century in the Romanesque style. This old monastery also hosts the municipal albergue.Like the Appalachian Trail, the Camino Primitivo felt a bit like a green tunnel at times.Chekcing out the unripe figs along the CaminoMy only other big town of the day was SalasSalas has a large, distinctive tower. But this town’s real fame lies in being the place where the Italian pilgrim and habitual thief Bartholomeus Cassini was captured in 1586. He stole from a church in Zarautz (on the Camino del Norte) and attempted to repeat the effort in Salas. The judge in Salas sentenced him to be hanged, then quartered (dismembered), then displayed along the Camino as a warning to other would-be thieves!I had to stop to take a photo of this ewe. She was the sole black sheep in a herd of white ones. I think this might be a Black Welsh Mountain Sheep.By mid-afternoon, I saw a sign for a nearby waterfall and decided to take the short detour.Cascada de NonayaSpring flowers blooming along the trailMy day ended with a tiring uphill climb toward the windmills on a ridge lineShortly after the ridge, I took another off-trail detour to my albergue. This ATJ sign indicates that the albergue is an acogida tradicional Jacobel.A communal dinner of lentil stew, salad, bread, and fruit with my fellow pilgrims. Together, we represented Ibiza (Spain), Slovakia, Poland, Sweden, Lithuania, and the US.
Highlights
Staying in acogida tradicional Jacobel – a traditional Jacobean donativo, where the focus is on pilgrimage, hospitality, and community rather than the individual journey. Our host, Nicholás, was a true delight, and I’m grateful I chose to contact this albergue in advance, as 100% of the beds were taken (yet again).
I met several pereginas (female pilgrims) at breakfast and during my walk today. Two were Americans (Lily and Naomi), one was Polish (Alexandra), and another was Dutch (Marie-Louise).
Although the day began with dense clouds and fog, it cleared by mid-morning, providing me with a lovely, sunny day of hiking on the Camino and lots of flowers in bloom.
Challenges
I was concerned about whether anything would be open in town because today was Labor Day, a national holiday in Spain. My worries were for naught. The stores were closed, but there were plenty of bars and cafes open in the two towns I walked through.
There were a few big climbs today, and lots of mud on the trail from the overnight rain. The final climb of the day really left me more tired than I should have been.
I had an interesting conversation with Alexandra, the Polish pilgrim. She immediately wanted to talk about politics, and the topic took a hard right turn (pun intended) when she told me all about her avid support for Donald Trump. I tried to remain tactful as I had no intention of ruining my Camino with such nonsense.
