Tuesday – May 6, 2025
- Start: A Fonsagrada, Spain
- End: Castroverde
- Distance: 35 km (21.9 miles)
- Lodging: Casa Roma
After two shorter hiking days, I was back to hiking big miles on day 7 of the Camino Primitivo. The morning started out with a brisk 37 degrees, which meant I was wearing all my snivel gear layers to stay warm (gloves, ear band, rain pants, rain jacket). After 12.5 kilometers, I reached the town of Paradavella and began the 12-kilometer section affectionately known as the “leg wrecker,” with its roller-coaster of ups and downs. It seemed as if I was constantly climbing up to the next ridge covered with windmills. Rather than ending the day in O Cádavo with my fellow pilgrims today, I pressed on to Castroverde so I would have more time to sightsee in the historic city of Lugo tomorrow. And I rewarded myself for the physical effort by booking my only private room on this Camino in a small apartment above a lovely little bar.
Highlights
- The little pilgrim rest area outside of A Fonsagrada this morning was super welcoming and inclusive. It’s a good reminder that this journey brings together people from around the world and isn’t just an independent endeavor.
- The sprintime scenery today was quite enjoyable. There were hillsides of wildflowers and blooming apple trees to enjoy as I made my way up and down the roller coaster of hills.
- When I stopped for lunch in O Cádavado, I got my first plate of pimientos de Padrón, a delightful Galician dish of roasted peppers sprinkled with salt.
Challenges
- Today was a very brisk, cold day in early May. It began at 37 degrees, and while the day warmed to about 50 degrees, the wind made it feel much colder. I had to wear my snivel gear all day long!
- Most of my fellow pilgrims were stopping in O Cádavo today, which was a more reasonable distance to walk. But I felt strong enough to push through my biggest day on the Camino Primitivo and ended up walking nearly 22 miles.