I pushed a 22-mile walk yesterday in an effort to make today’s walk into Lugo shorter. I wanted a full afternoon to enjoy exploring this historic town in northern Spain. The route to Lugo was much flatter than yesterday, but was filled with some unique sights. I stopped at the Pilgrim Oasis, where Jose Luis was serving up watermelon slices. I crossed paths with a Spaniard on horseback. And I treated myself to a lunch of delicious Indian food on the outskirts of Lugo. Then it was time to explore this walled city and take in the sights.
Departing Castroverde on another brisk morningTunnel timeThis giant horse was a real beauty. He was at least 17 hands tall. I would see a lot of horses on today’s shorter stage.Easy walking compared to yesterday’s roller coaster.After 6.5 kilometers, I reached a split I wasn’t expecting, but it was just a 800-meter detour to a church.A local fellow, just taking his horse for a morning walkAnother unexpected sight was this pilgrim Oasis set up by a former pilgrim named Jose Luis.Jose Luis serving up watermelon to pilgrimsThis was a lovely place to stop and rest. The morning was finally heating up, so I stripped off my extra gear and planned to walk in just my long-sleeve shirt and shortsPhoto near this carved scallop shell pilgrim benchBack on the route with my fellow pilgrimsMore pretty horsesI’m definitely walking through horse country today.First views of LugoIn the park below the arched bridge that takes traffic into LugoReaching Lugo brings me to the final 100 km mark from Santiago. I hope this doesn’t mean the route is going to get busier because the Camino Primitivo may not be able to handle any more pilgrims.A Roman wall was built around Lugo’s city center in the 3rd century AD, and I found a private albergue that would let me stay within the walls tonight.The historic city wallsOne of the gates into the city centerHeading up the stairs to walk atop the wallLooking over the walls from the topThe wide path atop the wall was sometimes a soft dirt path, and other times an intricate stone path like this.Back down below, I explored Lugo’s city streetMain park in the city centerI made a quick stop at my albergue, where nobody had to fight for a bottom bunk today.After showering and changing into clean clothes, I went back out to explore more of Lugo before dinner. My first stop was the city’s historical cathedral and museum, where pilgrims can take a self-guided audio tour (in English) for just €5Check out this Intricately carved bell towerI wasn’t able to take any photos inside the museum, but I did run into some familiar pilgrims, including Dan (the US Navy veteran) and his brother-in-law, while I was there.I’m super glad I hiked the extra miles yesterday, because Lugo was a delight to explore. Markers in the sidewalk for the Vía Romana XIX, the ancient Roman highway through the Iberian Peninsula that connected Braga (Portugal) with Lugo and Astorga (Spain).Fantastically whimsical maildrop at the main post office. The left lion’s mouth is for the local mail (towns in Galicia), while the right lion is for all other destinations.Only 100 km to go to the end of the Camino Primitivo!
Highlights
Jose Luis’s pilgrim oasis was a lovely pitstop with fresh watermelon and benches for weary legs to rest.
Today’s stage had the distinct feel of horse country. I saw fields full of them, and several Spaniards out riding.
Lugo was a fantastic city to be a tourist. Everything was walkable, and there was just so much to see – from the historic city walls to the cathedral museum (discounted to €5 for pilgrims) and the charming little sights sprinkled around every corner.
Challenges
Deciding how to spend my limited time in Lugo. I’m glad I hiked a longer day yesterday so that I’d have more time in town to explore. But honestly, I could have taken a “zero” here if I weren’t in a time crunch to get to Santiago.
My body is starting to feel some aches and pains, and my shoes are definitely coming to the end of their lifespan. I’ve been walking continuously for nearly a month now, between my trek on the Via Francigena and this one. By the time I reach Santiago in a few days, my shoes will have 750+ kilometers on them!
