TMB Day 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines

by | Sep 1, 2025 | France, Switzerland, Tour du Mont Blanc, Trail Journals | 0 comments

Monday, Sept. 1, 2025 

  • Start: Geneva, Switzerland
  • End: Les Contamines, France
  • Bus: 115 km (Geneva – Chamonix – Les Houches)
  • Distance hiked: 18 km (11.2 miles)
  • Elevation gain/loss: 7,205 vertical feet
  • Todays high point: Col de Voza – 5,490′ elevation

Day 1 of the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) began in Geneva, Switzerland. I was up before sunrise, catching a city bus from my hotel to the airport, and then the second private bus (Alpy Bus) across the international border to Chamonix, France. I had two key tasks when I arrived in Chamonix: (1) buy a paper map of the TMB from the High Mountain Office, and (2) procure snacks and lunch for my first day of hiking. Then I was on my third bus of the day heading to my starting point in Les Houches. I probably could have eased into the TMB by taking the Bellevue cable car, but I chose to hike up through the clouds and drizzling rain instead. After reaching my high point of the day at Col de Voza, I had a solid descent to the village of Bionnassay before crossing the river on a metal suspension bridge. The rest of the day was more moderate hiking, with zero views of the mountains. And I got stuck walking in a downpour just as I reached the edge of Les Contamines.

Elevation profile for Day 1
I had an early morning return to Geneva Airport so I could catch my direct bus to Chamonix, France.
It turns out the big group that booked the bus cancelled their reservation at the last minute, so I was the only person on the rainy bus ride from Geneva to Chamonix.
Walking through Chamonix in search of the Office de Haute Montagne (High Mountain Office) where I could buy a paper map of the TMB
I arrived in Chamonix right after the UTMB ended and posed at the finish line, which was still set up!
Wooden composting port-a-potties and urinals near the race start/finish line
After riding the bus to Les Houches, it was time to finally start my hike on the TMB.
Spotted my first markers for the the TMB
Some of my fellow hikers skipped the first 900-meter ascent by taking the Bellevue cable car.
The rain held to a light drizzle during the ascent with thick clouds that blocked most of the views.
Heading back downhill toward the village of Bionnassay
Some friendly horses hanging out near the TMB
I feel like this vibrant little guy today. My pace on the steep ascents and descents has me grateful that I only had to hike 18 km on my first day.
Suspension bridge across a raging river
River crossing
Toward the end of the day, the trail finally leveled out and became quite enjoyable and serene
Crossing the river again the clouds almost look as if they are going to clear
Unfortunately, the skies opened up as I entered Les Contamines, France, and I was welcomed to town with a deluge of heavy rain.

Highlights

  • When I arrived in Chamonix, I took a short walk around town and got to see the start/finish line for the famed UTMB trail race.
  • Although the weather forecast predicted more than an inch of rain today, I had a nice break from the rain during my hike. It was mostly just light mist and sprinkles until I got to Les Contamines.
  • The hotel I picked for my first night on the TMB was awesome. It was so much nicer than I’d expected (more on that below).

Challenges

  • My jet lag from the trans-Atlantic flight had me awake from 1 am to 5:20 am this morning. This was a real bummer, because I had to be up around 6 am to catch the bus to Chamonix.
  • I was a bit scared that my bus to Chamonix wasn’t coming. When I arrived at the airport, there was no agent or customer service person at the meeting point, and I appeared ot be the only person waiting. Despite my fretting, the AlpyBus driver arrived 10 minutes early, and all went well.
  • There were no views of Mont Blanc today thanks to the stormy skies
  • The ascent to Col de Voza and descent was steeper than I’d anticipated, and my right knee hurt most of the day. Hopefully, it resolves itself overnight and doesn’t become a chronic issue during this trek.

Today’s Lodging

Hotel Christiania. I booked this wonderful local inn on Booking.com (Cost: €121). My reservation included a large, comfortable room with a private bath, a fantastic buffet breakfast, and it was located just steps from the TMB. It was the perfect start to my trip and just a few blocks from the three grocery stores in Les Contamines.

My hotel in Les Contamines

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