TMB Day 2: Les Contamines to Les Chapeiux

by | Sep 2, 2025 | France, Tour du Mont Blanc, Trail Journals | 0 comments

Tuesday, Sept. 2, 2025 

  • Start: Les Contamines, France
  • End: Les Chapieux, France
  • Distance hiked: 19.5 km (12.1. miles)
  • Elevation gain/loss: 8,175 vertical feet
  • Today’s high point: Marked junction above Refuge du Col de la Croix due Bonhomme – 8,216′ elevation

Day 2 on the Tour du Mont Blanc, I departed Les Contamines and initially headed along Le Bon Nant (river) to the baroque-style Notre Dame-de-la-Gorge church. This landmark was the transition point for the long ascent toward Col du Bonhomme. The TMB seemed much busier today, possibly because I started hiking right after breakfast, along with all the other hikers. Most of the morning was cold and rainy, and there were several false summits. When I reached the small shelter at Col du Bonhomme, I was somewhat disappointed not to be able to see my progress or any panoramic views of my surroundings through the clouds. The climb continued to a large rock pile at Col de la Croix du Bonhomme before dropping down to a very large hut that reminded me of the AMC huts in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. After lunch, the clouds gave way to sunshine and epic green mountains as I descended to Les Chapieux.

Elevation profile on Day 2
The first highlight of the day was Notre Dame-de-la-Gorge, a Baroque-style church built in the early 18th century
After a brief visit inside the chapel, it was time to begin the steep climb toward Col du Bohomme
By the time I reached the first refuge (Refuge de Tant Borrant), it was pouring rain, and the precipitation would continue for hours.
Unlike yesterday’s late start, I was deep in the throng of TMB hikers, and I had to slalom through large groups, who seemed to be constantly blocking my way.
Once ahead of the majority of the groups, the trail climbed toward cascading waterfalls running down toward the valley.
The morning was nothing but climbing and climbing, and the weather blocked any real views.
Around 11:30 am, I finally made it up to Col du Bonhomme, where a small hut stood to protect hikers from the elements.
Unfortunately, the views still evaded me, and this was the best photo I would get of Don de Michelin, the distinct chimney-shaped summit above
Looking back at the route I’d ascended from the valley
After another 45 minutes of climbing, I finally made it to the giant leaning rock pile marking today’s highest point. You absolutely can see the fatigue in my expression.
From there, the trail headed downhill to Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, which reminded me of the Lake of the Clouds Hut on the Appalachian Trail near Mt. Washington, NH.
While I ate my lunch inside the refuge, the bad weather seemed to clear up. The rain ended, and I actually got my first real views!
The further I descended toward Les Chapieux, the better the views got, and blue skies finally emerged.
Now this is the TMB I was hoping to hike!
The final descent toward Les Chapieux, France
Memorial near my refuge commenorating the French resistance fighters in WWII
Historical sign about the fighters (thank goodness for Google Translate)

Highlights:

  • Visiting Notre Dame-de-la-Gorge reminded me of my prior European treks on the Camino de Santiago and Via Francigena
  • The beautiful views and sunshine finally arrived on my descent. If the weather forecast is to be trusted, I should have nice weather over the next few days as I head into Italy.
  • I loved learning about the auberge’s history – served as  a refuge for French Resistance fighters during WWII

Challenges:

  • Rainy & cold for most of the day so very few views until after lunch
  • So many groups ok hikers crowding the trail like a conga line 
  • Super cold at refuge thanks to my wet shirt.

Tonight’s Lodging

Auberge Refuge de La Nova. This was the first refuge I stayed at during my trek, and it’s directly on the TMB’s route. I booked my reservation on Montourdumontblanc (Cost: €68), which included a bunk, shower, and half-board (a communal dinner at 7 pm and a breakfast buffet between 6:30-8:00 am). The refuge offers vegetarian meals, but it does not have any Wifi or cell service. This building also served as a refuge for French resistance fighters during World War II. Overall, the accommodations were comfortable, and the food was tasty. However, there is a quirky room setup where you may need to walk through the bathroom/shower area to access one of the bunk rooms.

Auberge Refuge de la Nova

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