Thursday, Sept. 4, 2025
- Start:Courmayeur, Italy
- End: Val Ferret, Italy
- Distance hiked: 19.5 km (12.1 miles)
- Elevation gain/loss: 8,473 vertical feet
- Today’s high point: Knoll above Refugio Bertine – 6,785′ elevation
After yesterday’s significant distance on Tour du Mont Blanc, I was able to dial back my efforts and took it easy on day 4. I had two nights in the same hotel, so I “slackpacked” from Courmayeur to Val Ferret. After a short bus ride to the city center, I hiked out of town and up the steep, rocky ascent toward Refugio Bertone. After the big climb, the trail was more mellow, and I had the chance to enjoy the views of the Aosta Valley and the mountains. Rather than fully enjoying, though and taking my usual coffee breaks at the huts, I found myself racing along the trail in an effort to get to Val Ferret in time to catch the 13:43 bus back to Courmayeur. I hoped to finish up early so I could get to the laundromat in Courmayeur before it got too crowded. The joke was on me, though, because the 13:43 bus broke down and I was stuck in Val Ferret for nearly a full hour waiting for the next one.
HIGHLIGHTS:
- Once I got above Refugio Bertine, the hard part of the day was complete. And from this elevation, there were tons of views of the jagged mountains and the Aosta valley
- I was able to slackpack this leg of the TMB (give my body some rest by carrying less weight in my pack), since I was returning to the same hotel on the edge of Courmayer this evening.
- I’m grateful to finally do my laundry this afternoon in Courmayeur. My hiking shirt smelled so horrible, and it was long past time to wash it. The line for the two washers at the little town laundromat was ridiculously long, but I was able to share a washer with a duo of German ladies and split the exorbitant cost (reducing the €12 washer price to just €4) and then air-dry my clothes at the hotel.
CHALLENGES:
- I had to really push myself physically to make the 13:43 bus from Val Ferret to Courmayeur. I was hiking as fast as I could, and I only took one 5-minute break today, which left me feeling as if I needlessly rushed through this leg of the TMB.
- Because of my breakneck pace, I only ate some apricots and a protein bar for lunch. I really should have slowed down and stopped for a proper lunch at Refugio Bonatti instead of racing to catch the early bus to do my town chores.
- I arrived at the Val Ferret bus stop with 10 minutes to spare, and the bus was already there (since this is its turnaround point at the end of the route). Unfortunately, when the driver tried to restart the bus, it had mechanical issues and we weren’t able to leave for an hour. By that time, 50 people were trying to crowd onto the warm bus instead of 12, and I felt carsick for the entire journey back to town.
TONIGHT’S LODGING
Hotel Shatush. I used the bus to return to the same hotel I’d stayed in last night in Courmayeur. I made my reservation for this hotel on Booking.com (Cost: €177.50 for €88.75/night). My stay included a hotel room with a private bathroom, an outdoor deck, wifi, and breakfast. There was also a restaurant on the premises where I ate dinner on my first evening. This hotel is located near the Skyway gondola, about 3.5 kilometers from downtown, so I had to rely on the local, free bus system to get to/from the hotel (closest bus stops are Funiway Skyway or Entrèves, depending on which route you take).
