- Arizona County HP: #8
- Difficulty: ⭐️⭐️⭐️ (on a scale of 4)
- Summit Elevation: 8,164 feet
- Mountain Range: Hopi-Navajo Mesas on the Colorado Plateau
- Ancestral Lands: Nuwuvi (Southern Paiute), Pueblo
PLANNING DETAILS
Location: Black Mesa is located in the northeast corner of the state inside the Navajo Nation, approximately 150 miles northeast of Flagstaff, AZ. The closest town with amenities is Kayenta, AZ.
When to Visit: Spring through Fall. Getting to the summit requires navigating up the mesa’s steep escarpment, which is often covered by snow or ice from January to April.
Fees/Permits Required: Yes. This high point is located in the Navajo Nation (tribal lands). A backcountry permit from the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department is required for any camping, hiking, or other outdoor activities. The permit cost is $25, payable by cash or money order.
The closest offices to obtain a backcountry permit are the Tseyi Dine Heritage Area – Cottonwood Campground near Chinle, AZ, or the Little Colorado River Navajo Tribal Park near Cameron, AZ. (Note: When planning for your permit pick-up during business hours, please remember that the Navajo Nation observes Daylight Saving Time, and is one hour ahead of Arizona from March to November)
Getting There: Black Mesa is a 45-mile-long mesa situated between Kayenta and Chinle. The mesa’s highest point is located near its northern end, just outside the town of Kayenta.
Directions from Flagstaff: Follow US-89 north for 66 miles, then turn right onto US-160 toward Tuba City. Continue east on US-160 for 79 miles toward the town of Kayenta. Just west of Kayenta, turn right on Harvest Time Road. Follow Harvest Time Road south for 1 mile, then turn left onto an unnamed dirt road. Follow the dirt road east for 0.5 miles, then turn right (the road’s entrance may be marked with an arrowhead sign). Continue down the private road for 0.2 miles until you reach the yellow gate.
Directions from Holbrook: Follow I-40 east for 6 miles to Exit 292 (Keams Canyon/AZ-77). Follow AZ-77 north for 33 miles. Turn right on Navajo Route 15, and follow NR-15 north for 39 miles to Burnside, AZ. Turn left onto US-191 and follow US-191 north for 44 miles. Turn left onto Navajo Route 59, and follow NR-59 north for 44 miles (the long mesa in front of you is Black Mesa). At US-160 turn left and follow US-160 west toward Kayenta. After 9.7 miles, turn left onto Harvest Time Road. Follow Harvest Time Road south for 1 mile, then turn left onto an unnamed dirt road. Follow the dirt road east for 0.5 miles, then turn right (the road’s entrance may be marked with an arrowhead sign). Continue down the private road for 0.2 miles until you reach the yellow gate.
Parking: Many visitors park outside the yellow gate on the private dirt drive & display a copy of their Navajo Nation permit on their dashboard. This area can fit 2-3 cars. There may be additional parking 0.7 miles further south on this road near the green water tanks. However, this is a private road, and the yellow gate may be closed/locked without notice. The closest amenities (trash, water, toilets) are located in the town of Kayenta.
Pets Allowed: This route is not pet-friendly.
Kid Friendly: Due to the lack of a defined trail, navigation skills required, and the steepness of the escarpment, this high point is best for kids aged 15 or older.
The Summit: The CoHP is marked by a rock pile leaning against a tree about 1 mile west of the picnic bench at the top of the mesa. There is a red can with a summit register at the base of the rockpile.
TRIP SUMMARY
Date Visited: April 22, 2026
Route Used: Dirt Road & Yazzie Trail – 10.3 miles round-trip, including my detour to Kayenta Point
The first time I saw Black Mesa was during a Spring Break road trip with my son in 2025. We were driving south between Monument Valley, UT, and Page, AZ, admiring the vermillion buttes and spires rising up from the desert. And then, as we crossed into Arizona near the tribal town of Kayenta, a massive mesa emerged on the horizon.
There was still a surprising bit of snow remaining on Black Mesa that March. And there was a brutally cold wind whipping across the northern Arizona desert. So it was not the ideal time to hike this CoHP. I’d have to return at a later date if I hoped to make it to the top of the mesa.
Fast forward 13 months, and I was on my 9-day peakbagging trip to Arizona. I summited Mt. Union (Yavapai County’s highest point) yesterday, right after I got into town. And I woke up at 5 am this morning to hike out to two places on the Mogollon Rim that claim to be the highest points in Gila County.
That left me with enough time to make the 250-mile drive north to the Navajo Reservation. I hoped to climb Black Mesa this afternoon and make it a two-fer with CoHPs. I was pretty sure I had enough time to squeeze Gila Co. and Navajo Co. into the same day, if I was willing to make the long drive north.
I called the Navajo Parks and Recreation office before flying down to Arizona. So I already knew there were several offices where I could get the required backcountry permit to hike to the top of Black Mesa.
- For visitors coming through Flagstaff, the closest office is the Little Colorado River Tribal Park near Cameron, AZ
- Visitors coming from Albuquerque can stop at the main Parks and Recreation Department in Window Rock, AZ
- Visitors coming from Moab can use the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park near the Utah-Arizona border.
- Visitors coming from Salt Lake City can use the Lake Powell Navajo Tribal Park in Page, AZ
- And visitors driving through the Navajo Reservation often use the Tseyi Heritage Cottonwood Campground in Chinle, AZ
Since I was beginning my day near the Mogollon Visitor Center and driving north through Holbrook, AZ, using this final option in Chinle, AZ, was the best bet for me. And so, I began the 175-mile drive north through the flat, dry desert landscape of eastern Arizona.
The permit office is located just outside the Cottonwood Campground near Canyon de Chelly National Monument. The National Park Service and the Navajo Nation work together to preserve Canyon de Chelly, which is considered one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the Navajo Nation, along with other stunning sights like Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley.
When I arrived to get my permit, I was worried that I’d just missed my window. The sign on the door said the office was closed for lunch from 12 noon to 1 pm, and my watch said it was 12:03 pm. But then, I watched someone walk inside. That’s when I remembered that the Navajo Nation observes Daylight Saving Time, even though the state of Arizona doesn’t. It was actually 1 pm according to the local time!
It only took me 5 minutes to fill out the backcountry permit application and pay the $25 fee to hike/camp on the reservation. I was issued a bright orange permit and told to keep it on me throughout my hike to prove I was authorized to go up Black Mesa. The Parks and Recreation phone number was also circled on my permit, and I was instructed to call it at the end of my hike to confirm that I’d returned safely.
With all the logistics for the hike complete, all that was left was to drive the 70 miles between Chinle and Kayenta and begin the hike!
The drive between these two towns was remarkably scenic compared to the southern portion of the Navajo Reservation. I was on the cusp of the red rocks and towering rock formations that make this corner of northern Arizona so special. Then Black Mesa rose on the horizon. The 45-mile-long mesa would run parallel to me all the way to Kayenta.
My next challenge was figuring out where the trail began. I’d prepped by reading several posts on peakbagger.com. So I was fairly certain that the “Yazzie Route” picked up just south of Kayenta near some private homes. But I wasn’t 100% sure where to park or begin the hike. I’d downloaded GPS routes that started all over the place, and none of the dirt roads off Highway 160 seemed to have any road signs or addresses.
In the end, the best route seemed to be to depart Highway 160 on Harvest Time Road (on the west end of Kayenta_. I followed this road over the cattle guard and then drove south for about a mile before turning left onto an unnamed dirt road and driving 0.4 miles toward a long driveway with an arrowhead sign marking its entrance HERE.
About 0.2 miles down the dirt drive, I knew this was the correct road. I spotted the yellow gate where my fellow highpointer, Mihai, said he had parked during his visit back near New Year’s Day. And like him, I opted to park outside the gate.. just in case someone decided to close it while I was hiking
As I pulled completely off the road and parked, I was glad I had the forethought to ask for a photocopy of my backcountry hiking permit. I definitely wanted to place a copy on the rental car’s dashboard. There was no official trailhead or parking area out here. And the last thing I needed during my absence was someone to call a tow truck and have a trespasser’s car removed.
After gearing up for the hike, I set off south. The beginning of the hike followed the dirt drive toward the ranch at the road’s terminus, about 0.8 miles away. The mid-afternoon wind was picking up, and I was grateful that it wasn’t too late in the season. There wasn’t a lick of shade out here, and this would be a brutal hike in summer.
Within a half mile of leaving the car, I spotted some green water tanks ahead of me. Time to pull out my phone to look at the various GPS routes I’d downloaded.
Once I pulled even with the water tanks, I could see some sort of ranch down below me. One of the buildings had a bright blue metal roof. There were numerous pipe corrals for livestock along the left side of the ranch. And towards the back of the property, I could see multiple small homes. This was about the time that the ranch dogs started barking to announce my presence.
This next bit was the tricky part. The Yazzie Route begins on the far side of the ranch and climbs the slope toward the mesa’s escarpment. But I didn’t want to trespass by getting to close to the ranch. Nor did I want to deal with any dogs running toward me to scare me off.
So I hiked down off the slope on the east side of the ranch, giving it a very wide berth. Unfortunately, this left me scrambling to figure out where the trail began and how to get back to it.
I’d eventually discover there was no real trail to follow. There was a network of paths, some more defined than others, but none of them was signed. So I just hiked in the general direction that I was supposed to go until I saw a semi-defined path that looked right.
Unfortunately, that path went in the wrong direction. It was heading west instead of uphill, so I was back to my cross-country travels, looking for the mysterious Yazzie route again. I’d occasionally spot a rock cairn, but the path along these lower slopes was hit or miss. The rocks and vegetation did me no favors either, often obscuring the route that I was sure I’d just found.
The afternoon sun cast a lovely glow on the mesa as I got closer, but I was constantly left wondering whether this really was the path up the escarpment to the top. The steepness of the slope reaffirmed what I already knew. If I wasn’t on the correct path, there was no way I was just going to magically find a way up this massive wall ahead of me.
My luck seemed to hold, though. Every time I seemed to lose the trail, I’d rediscover it with a little trial and error. This was definitely a route that required some good navigation skills and common sense. And not one I’d recommend to a novice hiker.
Then the real fun began as the trail wound back and forth up the escarpment. At times, the route felt like a loose dirt chute. And other times, as if the trail was being reclaimed by the bushes and vegetation. But generally the route was easier to follow the higher I climbed.
After 3.9 miles, I finally made it to the top of the climb and crested the rim. A rock cairn marked the trail’s end. And off to my left, there was a lovely wooden picnic bench (though I have no clue how it ever got up here).
The mesa’s high point wasn’t anywhere near where the trail ended or the picnic bench. It was nearly a mile away and would require me to follow the top of the relatively flat mesa east.
But before I did that, though, I set my eyes on the tree-covered mound to my south. This small rise was Kayenta Point. I’d read that there was a metal survey marker embedded in the highest point on the rock ledges over there.
After a bunch of weaving through the sagebrush and trees, I made it to the top of Kayenta Point. It had no real geographic significance. It wasn’t the mesa’s highest point. But I always enjoy taking a photo with a survey marker, and I knew there wouldn’t be one at my true destination.
With the side quest to Kayental Point complete, I returned to the mesa’s edge and looked east toward my final destination. Black Mesa’s high point was somewhere over there on the tree-covered expanse. I just needed to navigate my way over there through the downed trees, vegetation, and semi-forested areas.
This choose-your-own-adventure route across the mesa was tedious and slow. There was no clear path east. And while it was mostly flat, it felt like a total slog hiking that final mile. I’m not sure if I was just bonking from the long day of driving or the mental fatigue of trying to find the route up the mesa. But that final mile toward the high point was a real chore.
Eventually, I succeeded, though. After 5.6 miles, I found the official high point deep in a cluster of trees with no views. A tall rock pile leaning against a tree marked the spot. And a small red can containing the summit register was near its base. I’d finally made it to my 10th Arizona CoHP.
When I flipped open the summit register, I could see that Mihai’s visit on January 2, 2026, was the last one before me. This wasn’t surprising. Black Mesa’s high point is only a destination for people who are interested in county highpointing. It isn’t like Monument Valley, Antelope Canyon, the Wave, Shiprock, or any of the other popular uber-destinations on the Navajo Reservation.
Yet, as I made my way back to the edge of the mesa and prepared for the return hike back down to the car, I was glad I’d climbed this challenging high point. The views from the mesa were 100% worth the effort.
Finding the route on the descent was slightly easier than on my way up. I had the advantage of being higher up, which often made it a little easier to survey my surroundings for rock cairns and paths. I was chasing the sun the entire time down, though. And I barely made it to the car before darkness descended.
Of all the Arizona CoHPs, this one definitely ranks among the most challenging. Between the route navigation, the exposure to the sun and wind, the lack of water sources, and the length and steepness of the route, this was definitely an advanced hike.
And with another high point under my belt, it was time to drive back to Chinle. I had a hotel reservation waiting for me along with a soft bed. Tomorrow would be a new day, and I had another summit on my radar. My next CoHP adventure would also be on tribal lands. This time though, it would be the White Mountain Apache Reservation. And that required another long 200-mile drive to get me back down south again.
BONUS MATERIAL
Public camping nearby:
- Sunset View Campground is located in the Navajo National Monument, approximately 30 miles west of Kayenta. This National Park Service campground is open year-round and offers 31 campsites, flush toilets, potable water spigots (turned off in winter), trash, picnic tables, and access to hiking trails. Campsites are available on a first-come, first-served basis with a maximum stay of 7 days per visit (14 days per year). Cost: Free.
- Canyon View Campground is located in the Navajo National Monument just north of Sunset View Campground. This small NPS campground is open seasonally (April to October) and offers 17 campsites, vault toilets, trash, and access to hiking trails. There is no potable water at this campground, but visitors can get water at Sunset View Campground or the Navajo National Monument Visitor Center. Cost: Free.
- Tseyi Dine Heritage Area – Cottonwood Campground is located 0.5 miles south of Canyon de Chelly National Monument in Chinle, AZ. The campground is managed by the Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation, is open year-round, and offers 93 campsites on a first-come, first-served basis, an RV dump station, potable water (turned off in winter), flush toilets, and trash. Backcountry permits for Black Mesa can also be purchased here. Cost: $30/night (campsite), $5/day (day-use/water/dump station).
Resources:
- Overview of Black Mesa – Kayenta Point (Summit Post)
- Backcountry Permit Information (Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation)
- Navajo National Monument (U.S. National Park Service)
- Canyon de Chelly National Monument (U.S. National Park Service)
- Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park (Navajo Nation)