Let’s be honest. Winter doesn’t lend itself to the outdoor adventures I enjoy most. So, in an effort to avoid the worst of it, I escaped down to balmy San Diego with its sunshine and blue skies for a month.

My mid-winter travel plans also put me within striking range of a long trail that’s been on my bucket list for years – the Pacific Crest Trail. Anyone who truly knows me can attest the PCT is THE American long trail I always expected to thru-hike. I’m a West Coast girl to my core, and grew up within an hour’s drive of the trail.

I pushed the PCT the back burner in 2019 though, and thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail instead. During that entire journey, I thought a lot about hiking the PCT in 2020. But, by the end, I knew my feet and knees weren’t up to the task of two back-to-back summers of thru-hiking.

Despite this physical limitation, a section hike of the PCT was definitely within my means. And what better place to start than in the California desert in January?

Picking a Winter Route on the PCT

The 700 miles of the PCT between the Mexican border and Kennedy Meadows is commonly referred as the desert section. However, lumping this length of trail under an umbrella term like ‘desert’ can be an vast over-simplification.

The PCT begins by winding its way through Southern California’s mountain ranges, with elevations ranging from just over 1,000 feet up to 9,000 feet. The terrain varies between grasslands, pine forests, and sandy desert. It also has lengthy sections with very limited water, while other sections run adjacent to fast flowing rivers.

In winter, you can pretty much count on seeing patches of snow and ice on most of North America’s trails, and the PCT is no exception to this rule. To avoid this obstacle, I narrowed my search to a route that would remain at lower elevations. This would allow me to experience the highlights of the trail while mostly avoiding the need for extra gear like micro-spikes or an ice ax.

Hikers can also expect temperatures in the desert to vary greatly during the winter months. During nicer stretches, the days might be warm with intense sun, while the evenings fall to freezing. Snow, sleet, fog, and rain are all pretty commonplace this time of year, even in the driest parts of the desert.

With all these various factors in mind, I zeroed in on the southernmost section of the PCT, and decided to trek the 110 miles from Campo to Warner Springs in January 2020.

This particular segment of the trail works itself through diverse country including the Laguna Mountains, the Anza-Borrego Desert, the San Felipe Hills, and the Cleveland National Forest. Moreover, it doesn’t climb above 6,000 feet elevation, so all I needed was a moderately nice 5-day weather window to make a successful go of it.

Pros of Winter Hiking

Hiking a section of the PCT during the winter comes with a lot of benefits that most thru-hikers don’t get the chance to experience. Here’s six great things I noticed during my January section hike.

1. Avoiding the brutal sun

Most PCT thru-hikers begin the desert section in April or May when typical daytime temperatures climb to 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. With little shade, the sun can feel insanely hot as it beats down on hikers’ heads and bodies. Sunburn and overheating are common problems in the late spring.

Meanwhile, one of the big benefits of hiking in winter is milder temperatures and a greater chance of cloud cover in the sky. Wearing pants and long layers is comfortable, and even provides some added protection from the cold winds racing through the desert canyons.

The desert sun’s UV intensity is still present in winter though. So hikers need to remember to pack sunscreen and lip balm for a winter hike. Yet, the warming heat is also a welcome addition, and winter hikers can enjoy feeling the rays and continue to make decent mileage instead of baking in the sun’s angry glare.

2. Spectacular Desert Scenery

Hiking in the winter means seeing trees, plants, and dramatic landscapes through a completely different lens. In the off-season, the cactus and other flora can seem more vibrant. You’ll spend less time focusing on trying to find shade, and more of your time taking in your beautiful surroundings.

Rather than slogging through shades of muted browns like in the drier months, there’s a dichotomy of colors to appreciate in winter. Dark evergreens and pinecones are set off against silvery white snow. Wildflowers blow gently in the breeze in front of commanding cactus. The hillsides are green with fresh growth and the texture of the flora seems more compelling.

Even the sunrises and sunsets seem better in the winter. You can snuggle in your sleeping bag with a cup of hot coffee in hand as you watch the shades of pink, coral, and red stretch across the sky. So, while there may be limited daylight in the winter, but there’s certainly no shortage of beauty.

3. The Wildlife

I vehemently dislike and fear all snakes. It doesn’t matter whether they are venomous or not. I’m confident when I tell you, snakes don’t enhance my hike in ANY manner whatsoever. And while these invertebrates are a simple fact of life in the desert, hiking during the winter provides a reprieve from my snake-induced anxiety.

Snakes don’t truly hibernate during the colder months, but they do become far less active. Instead of sunning themselves on trail or coiled beside it, they search for dens where they can remain warm and enter a dormant stage called burmation. As a result, winter hikers are less likely to see snakes moving around in the desert – and this can bring about a more pleasant experience.

Not having to worry about stepping on snakes, scorpions, or other hazardous wildlife in winter also means you might notice some of the other desert animals wandering around. Southern California’s desert is home to rabbits, lizards, coyotes, owls, and plenty of birds.

4. Avoiding the Crowds

For anyone looking forward to breaking away from the crowds, winter hiking will definitely give you a dose of solitude and serenity. In January, it’s common to go the entire day out on trail without seeing a soul. This is especially true on the weekdays.

The winter PCT hiking experience is radically different than in springtime, when thru-hikers flock to the desert to begin their long trek north. I find this absence of others on trail really provides an opportunity to connect with my thoughts and nature. I get a sense of clarity and feel rejuvenated every day.

5. More seasonal water sources

Desert hiking on the PCT goes hand-in-hand with limited water supplies. Thru-hikers love to regale other with stories about their longest water carries. And most hikers agree that water caches and trail angels become a critical part of successfully hiking the the southern part of the PCT.

However, seasonal rivers and springs also exist throughout the desert. Many water sources that are dry by April are flowing strong in the cooler months, which is a great winter hiking perk. Of course, there’s no a guarantee water will actually be there, especially in drought years. So checking the PCT water report is still a critical preparation step in the winter months.

6. Fewer annoying bugs

Bugs are one of those nuisances that are part and parcel of enjoying the great outdoors. However, these pests diminish greatly when the temperatures drop in winter.

Mosquitoes thrive in hot weather, so they are virtually absent when the temperatures stay below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Flies can remain active through the year (especially near livestock), but they also don’t tend to be a major problem during the cooler months. The absence of these annoyances means you can leave your headnet at home and forgo the stinky insect repellant.

Despite this, it’s important to remember that pollinators (like bees) are still active based on the seasonal patterns of local flowers. If you haven’t hiked much in Southern California, you might not be aware that manzanita tree bursts into bloom in winter months. White flowers dotting the trail are a sure sign that hikers should beware of bees buzzing nearby. I was even stung (in the scalp!) during my first day on trail.

Cons of Winter Hiking

Of course, taking on a section of the PCT in winter has its downsides too. Here’s six of the most noticeable ones I encountered during my recent hike.

1. It’s not a social hike

If the highlight of your past hiking adventures involves meeting new friends, you’ll be sorely disappointed at how few people are on trail during the winter months. During my 110-mile PCT section hike, I saw a total of four backpackers and about 15 day hikers on the trail over a period of five days. And that’s probably on the higher end of what to expect, given that my hike included part of a holiday weekend (Sunday and Monday of MLK weekend).

Don’t get me wrong. Solo hiking can be an immensely enjoyable experience. But the flip side of all that solitude is the need to be extremely self-reliant. Winter hikers must have the experience to ensure their own safety. Possessing strong map reading skills and navigation are absolutely required when you cut away the safety net of hiking around others.

2. Fewer amenities to rely on

Hiking in the desert before thru-hiker season means you won’t be able to take advantage of the additional perks many others expect to find on trail. Campgrounds and restaurants are frequently closed during the winter season. There aren’t likely to be any trail angels providing water caches or shuttles to town. Resupply options will be more limited, and there will be less traffic along the roads if you hope to hitch somewhere off-trail.

This lack of amenities means you need to expect to be completely self-supported. For example, during my pre-hike planning, I narrowed down a 30-mile dry stretch where finding water would be extremely difficult. Trail angels tend to augment this arid segment in peak thru-hiker season by placing a water cache near a road crossing. These additional resources aren’t something winter hikers can rely upon.

3. Inclement weather can be dangerous

Most PCT thru-hikers don’t have to worry about freezing conditions or snow until they get to the Sierras. The desert is often considered a simpler section because the weather is fairly straight forward. However, in winter wet, cold, and windy conditions can descend on this section of trail. That means you’ll need to bring additional gear to ensure you stay warm and dry.

Even though the weather forecast predicted five days of sunshine during my winter section hike, things inevitably changed. After I set up camp on Mt. Laguna, up near 6,000 feet elevation, freezing rain rolled into the mountains and lasted the next 10 hours. Even though the rain was tapering off when I started hiking the next morning, I had to spend the entire day brushing up against wet overgrown foliage that criss-crossed the trail.

Without the appropriate rain gear, I would have been soaked to the bone and had to continue to walk in temperatures in the upper 30s and low 40s all day. Wet + cold + wind is a perfect recipe for hypothermia, and that’s a risk that should not be underestimated when planning a winter hike.

4. Heavier gear and clothing needed

Going ultralight is all the rage these days, and for good reason. Carrying less gear is more comfortable on your body. But, section hiking in winter probably means you need to thoroughly reevaluate your gear setup to balance safety with your base weight.

In my own case, I swapped out my normal hiking quilt for my 15 degree sleeping bag, and I added more warm clothing layers and rain gear. I also carried additional food and a stove to ensure I stayed warm. Each of these items increased my base weight some, but the additional safety and comfort throughout my hike was well worth it.

5. Winter trail conditions

There’s always a natural tendency to imagine the trail as you’re apt to encounter it. If you hike exclusively in the warmer months, you’re probably used to experiencing mostly dry trail conditions and solid footing.

Meanwhile, winter hiking can bring a lot more diversity to the game. There’s often snow, ice, slush and mud to contend with on trail. Failing to consider these variations can leave you unprepared for your winter hike.

To make sure you’re prepared, go ahead and challenge your assumptions. Are your normal hiking shoes or boots sufficient to trek through these adverse conditions? Will you need to carry additional technical gear like micro-spikes to safely get to over that pass? Will you still be able to set up your tent if the ground is frozen?

6. Less daylight to hike the miles

One of the biggest downsides to hiking in winter is the days are shorter. Even Southern California only has 10 hours of sunlight during January. This might call for adjusting your mileage or hiking schedule.

With the limited daylight, I had to be diligent about making the most of each day. This meant setting an alarm to wake up early and not lingering around camp in the mornings. I also made sure my headlamp was in good working order and I brought an extra battery, just in case.

Shorter days means you’ll probably be settled in at an earlier hour than normal each evening. With hours to kill before I was ready to fall asleep, I’m glad I came prepared. Reading a book or listening to a podcast became an enjoyable addition to my post-dinner routine in the evenings.

Preparing for success

The PCT is a great trail to explore in the off-season. Here’s a few tips bound to make your winter hiking experience safer and more enjoyable.

• Plan your water needs in advance. No matter what time of year you hike the desert, water scarcity is ALWAYS important. Consult the PCT Water Report (a crowdsourced guide) and know where you’ll have the longest water carries. For example, I opted to cache several gallons at Scissors Crossing, and had the capacity to carry up to 5 liters of water, if needed.
• Have a communication plan. Many of us rely on cell phone coverage as our primary means of communication these days. Yet service can be spotty throughout the desert and backcountry. If you plan to check in with someone on a regular basis, consider downloading the Coverage? app to see where you’re likely to have cell service on trail with your specific carrier. Another reliable (but pricier option) is the Garmin inReach, which provides satellite-based texting and a personal locator beacon for emergencies.
• Consider teaming up with another hiker. Regardless of your backcountry skills, you can minimize many of the risks of any trek by hiking with a partner. This is especially true during the off-season when your prospect of encountering others out on trail dwindle dramatically.
• Designate some bail-out points. Every good plan needs a contingency for when things go awry. Horrendous weather, serious injuries, or getting sick can happen to even to the most prepared hiker. If circumstances warrant ending your trip earlier than intended, it’s better to already know where the trailheads are located so you can get off trail easily and safely.
• Leave an itinerary with someone. Plans frequently change the longer you’re out on trail. Nonetheless, leaving an itinerary with someone at home is worth its weigh in gold in an emergency. I left behind a general plan with a range of probable end points (based on my mileage goals for each day). Then, each day I sent texted a “proof of life” text home with what mile I actually expected to camp near that particular evening. This technique allowed maximum flexibility – with a bit of safety too.
• Check in with the local Ranger Station. These local professionals are in the best position to know the current trail conditions, closures, and known risks. Plus, it’s just plain common sense to let as many people as possible know you’ll be out there in the wilderness just case something catastrophic occurs (e.g., a broken bone, mountain lion encounter, getting lost).
• Know what permits you need. If you are hiking less than 500 miles on the PCT, you are only required to obtain permits from local or state agencies. Permits for the first 110-mile section of the PCT are obtained from the Descanso Ranger District in Alpine, CA.
• Be prepared for cattle and horses. The PCT is a multi-use trail, which means hikers will need to share it with horses and stock animals. The addition of animals means you’re also likely to encounter their poop on trail, so watch your step! Also, local ranchers often secure permits to let their cattle graze on public lands. So you may happen upon herds during your hike — like the three dozen cows I had to detour around near Eagle Rock because they wouldn’t move off trail!

Want to know more about hiking the PCT during the winter?

Check out these helpful resources:

• When to Hike the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail Association)
• Cleveland National Forest PCT Page (US Forest Service)
• Winter Hiking Safety Tips (sectionhiker.com)