So you’re thinking about hiking one of Oregon’s backcountry trails, and the North Umpqua Trail is finally on your radar. At a approximately 80 miles long, this is the ideal short adventure for almost everyone.
But why would should consider the North Umpqua Trail (NUT) over some of the other more popular trails in Oregon? What are the pros and cons of this adventure? And how does it compare to the uber-popular Oregon treks like the Timberline Trail, the Three Sisters Loop, or the Oregon Coast Trail?
Pros of the North Umpqua Trail
If you’re mulling over the benefits and challenges of the NUT, here’s a few reasons it might just be perfect for your next thru-hike.
- No long water carries. The NUT provides hikers with ample opportunities to fill up directly from the North Umpqua River each day. Plus the trail crosses over dozens of additional steams flowing down toward the river. This means your pack’s weight will be noticeably lighter because you’ll rarely have to hike more than five miles before reaching the next fresh water source.
- Navigation is easy. The NUT is not blazed with the frequency of the Appalachian Trail or most long distance trails. And there is no Guthook Guide for it (yet). But don’t fret. Hiking the NUT couldn’t be more straightforward thanks to the fact that it parallels the river the entire way. The BLM brochure for the trail is all you’ll really need. But, you can also create a GPS route in about 10 minutes using tools like Gaia GPS.
- No permit required. If you’ve entered a lottery to get a permit for a long trail (JMT, PCT, etc.) you know the teeth gnashing that goes on during that process. Will I get a coveted permit? Will it coincide with the dates I want to hike this trail? Will I have to postpone to a future year? There’s no such worries on the NUT. The USFS doesn’t required any permits to hike this relatively unknown trail.
- It’s a softer trail. Anyone who’s hiked through the Cascades knows Oregon has a vast volcanic history. This geologic activity often leaves trails covered in rugged lava rocks ready to tear up your trail runners and leave the soles of your feet feeling mangled. Although you will see some basalt on the NUT, the vast majority of the tread on this trail is soft dirt and pine needles that your feet will definitely enjoy hiking upon.
- Pit toilets are frequent. Thanks to the high number of waterfall-seeking day hikers along this route, the U.S. Forest Service built pit toilets at many of the NUT’s trailheads. In my experience, these pit toilets were quite clean, stocked with ample TP, and they occurred regularly enough to make it super easy to Leave No Trace on your thru-hike. Warning: there is one exception. Take care to avoid the pit toilet at Umpqua Hot Springs Trailhead. Due to its constant overuse, this was the one pit toilet on the trail that was in complete shambles.
- It’s all downhill. The majority of folks thru-hiking the NUT begin in the Cascade Mountains and hike west toward the Pacific Ocean. As a result, the trail gradually drops in elevation the entire journey. This doesn’t mean the trail is perfectly flat. But rest assured, all the climbs are relatively gentle and they are always followed by a descent.
- Short and sweet. Because the NUT is only 79 miles long, this thru-hike can easily be completed in a week or less (assuming you’re prepared to hike 12+ miles/day). This relatively short distance means you don’t need to worry about the logistics of resupplying in towns or caching food for your adventure. So it’s the perfect pandemic-friendly thru-hike.
- Ditch the heavy bear canister. Very few hikers want to carry a heavy bear canister to protect their food on a long hike. Luckily, black bears are not currently a major nuisance in the Umpqua National Forest, and the USFS doesn’t require any particular food storage method. You still want to protect your food (I recommend and Ursack/OPSAK combo or hanging your food), but you can ditch the unwieldy bear canister for this hike.
- The forest. The NUT runs directly through the Umpqua National Forest, which means you’ll be traversing through old-growth forests and passing century-old trees regularly. Hiking through the tall forest also means plenty of shade to protect your arms and face, which is a nice change from some of Oregon’s other more exposed mountain or beach trails.
- Wild Berries. Hiking the NUT in the summer months means you have access to the abundant vines filled with sweet berries. Oregon produces more blackberries than any other state, and they simply thrive near the North Umpqua River. Wild berries are usually ripe from July to September, and fistfuls of blackberries, marionberries, and salmonberries make the perfect breakfast. Be forewarned though. Some local berries are inedible, so either stick to the ones you know by sight, or bookmark this PNW berry guide (with photos) before you head out to the trail.
Cons of the North Umpqua Trail
Of course, there are a few things you should consider before you pack up and head out to hike this lovely little trail. It’s not going to be unicorns and rainbows the entire way. Here’s 8 reasons why the NUT might fall short of your dream trail.
- The mosquitos. As any PCT thru-hiker will tell you, Southern Oregon can lousy with mosquitos in the early summer right after the snow melts. But, don’t fret. The vast majority of the mosquitos are on the far eastern section of the hike (in the 9-mile Maidu Segment). As you descend from the Cascades, their prevalence quickly wanes. And once you get west of Lemolo Falls, you rarely encounter them at all.
- The obstacle course. One of the challenges of hiking through old-growth forest is there number of trees that come crashing down with each wind or rain storm. Keeping up with this frequent deadfall is like a game of whack-a-mole for the USFS. Thus, the shorter, easier-to-maintain segments on the NUT might only have a single downed tree. Meanwhile, the Dread & Terror Segment is much more difficult to clear. For me, it felt like a frustrating obstacle course of downed trees that I had to navigate at snail’s pace.
- Finding campsites. Much of the trail traverses steep slopes that parallel the river, so finding a large enough or level campsite can be a bit of challenge at times. Add in rampant poison oak in some of the flat areas, and you might end up walking an extra mile (or longer) before you find a primo tent spot. Therefore, if you see a great spot near the end of your day, jump on it. It might be a while before you see another one.
- Pooping in the woods. Although there are plenty of pit toilets along the NUT, nature doesn’t always call near a trailhead. And finding a place to dig a proper cathole can be challenging on this trail. You don’t want to be too close to the river. Nor next to cliff with a sheer drop off. And you always need to be mindful of the potential of an audience. The North Umpqua River has some sections that are very popular with whitewater rafters, kayakers, and fisherman coming down river who might not be visible until it’s too late.
- It’s not a social trail. Although there are plenty of day hikers near the trailheads and the major waterfalls, I can count the number of fellow backpackers I crossed paths with during my thru-hike on a single hand. So if you aren’t comfortable being in the woods completely on your own, you might want pick a more populated trail.
- Limited wildlife. According to the USFS, there are 18 fish, 66 mammal, and 236 bird species that call the North Umpua Forest home. The area even just to be home to cougars, black bears, and elk in the past. However, the majority of the wildlife nowadays seems to be limited to squirrels, garter snakes, and unremarkable birds.
- Fire closures. West Coast wildfires are becoming more disastrous each year, and Oregon isn’t immune from this phenomena. Two major fires near Apple Creek in 1987 and 2002 forced the USFS to close down the the Calf Segment of the NUT for year. This meant many hikers had to endure a 3.8-mile roadwalk on Highway 138 to bypass that segment. Although the entire trail was open again during my thru-hike, disaster struck again this year. In September 2020, the Archie Creek fire burned more than 131,500 acres of the Umpqua National Forest, and the USFS temporarily closed parts of the Panther, Mott, and Tioga Segments of the trail. For the NUT’s current fire closure status, click HERE.
- Getting to the trail. Although the western end of this trail is super easy to get to, the eastern terminus is a completely different ballgame. Maidu Lake sits high up in the Cascade Mountains and nestled deep in the backcountry. There aren’t any shuttles services serving it and the closest trailhead is five miles away (near Miller Lake). So you’re best transportation option might entail leaving a car at each end or arranging a pick up ahead of time.
FINAL THOUGHTS
If you’re looking for a multi-day backcountry trail to hike, the North Umpqua Trail is a great choice for all ability levels. Although this trail is more remote than some trails in the Pacific Northwest, it strikes a great balance.
The climbs are gentle and well-graded. The logistics are easy. Water is plentiful all year round. And the NUT is an ideal backpacking distance to build your confidence before tackling something immense (like a PCT thru-hike).
Plus, it’s perfect for a good shakedown hike that will really help you dial in your gear choices for any upcoming adventure – whether you’re a novice backpacker or a seasoned thru-hiker.
All told, the NUT is a hidden gem in southern Oregon that should be on more hikers’ bucket lists.
Interested learning more about the NUT?
Check out some of my other posts about this trail, including: