September 12, 2018
- Route: Cirueña to Beldorado
- Distance: 28.5 kilometers (17.67 miles)
I slept wonderfully last night. Even though the afternoons here in Spain are beastly hot, the evenings cool down quickly. We slept with the windows open and it was the first evening where I felt the need to crawl under my blanket to stay warm.
When packing for the Camino, one of the big questions I had was what item I should bring for sleeping. I didn’t want to carry a big bulky sleeping bag, and I read that many of the albergues would provide fresh linens and a wool blanket for each bunk. Nonetheless, I still I wanted something of my own to make me more comfortable.
In the end, I settled on packing my Army poncho liner for the Camino. Often referred to by Soldiers as their “woobie,” a poncho liner is an ultralight quilted blanket, and probably the most cherished piece of gear I got from my military service. So far, it’s been the perfect item for the Camino. It packs down super small in my pack and weighs hardly anything. And, when folded in half, it makes the ideal sleep sack with a layer above and beneath me at night.
Sunflower surprises
After the last few days of walking along the scenic vineyards, today’s terrain was a bit of a change. It was mostly flat with a few rolling hills, and a lot of the route seemed to parallel the highway.
There were some scenic parts here and there though, like when I passed a field full of sunflowers. It was especially amusing to look at all little faces people had drawn on the sunflower heads by running their fingers over the seeds.
A Spanish breakfast
I was hit with hiker hunger again this morning, and decided to stop in Grañon for second breakfast around 10 am. Having already tried lots of pastries (chocolate croissants, almond croissants, and churros), I decided to buckle down and try my first Spanish tortilla.
As I previously discussed a few posts ago, a Spanish tortilla is nothing like the flour or corn tortillas we use in North America. It’s more like an Italian frittata or a crustless quiche.
Tortilla are usually made with eggs, cubed potatoes, and sliced onions. Ham and bacon also often make frequent guest appearances, but not cheese (which is the most essential ingredient in any omelette – if you want my opinion). In the end, my slice of tortilla was perfectly fine, but nothing to write home about. I think I’ll be back eating croissants with my cafe con leche tomorrow!
Beldorado’s sights
After a number of longer days, I decided to cut today a little shorter and end in the town of Beldorado around 2 pm. This is one of the more popular spots for pilgrims to stop because the town is a bit larger. As I wandered around I noticed how unique it appeared compared to some of the other towns. My favorite part was the gorgeous murals painted on several buildings.
I also stumbled upon the Paseo del Animo, which is best described as a ‘walk of fame.’ Along the main Camino path, there were bronze tiles laid in between the cobblestones. Each one had a cast footprint and handprint of an individual who’d made a significant contribution to Spain. Some of the honorees include athletes, writers, journalists, archeologists, and filmmakers.
Another part of Beldorado I fell in loved with was back at the albergue where I spent the night. Behind its main building, I discovered a supple green lawn to relax on and a pool to soak my weary feet in. The cool water was the perfect remedy for my swollen, tired tootsies. I spent an hour this afternoon lounging on the pool deck soaking up the sun while my feet relaxed in refreshing water.
Good dinner conversation
After relaxing for a bit, I signed up for dinner at the albergue. They served the meal in two sessions: an early seating (at 7 pm) and a later seating (at 9 pm). I opted for the earlier one, and was randomly seated at a table with two other pilgrims – a young 20-something from Logroño and a Korean man closer to my own age.
During our dinner conversation, I learned Julian (the Spaniard) was walking the Camino out of curiosity as much as spiritual devotion. Living in Logroño, he grew up watching pilgrims walk through his hometown year after year. Now it was his turn to see if he had the physical and mental fortitude to make the entire journey.
Meanwhile, Pak (the Korean) was a true world traveler and adventurer. He’d completed the 1,200 kilometer Shikoku pilgrimage trail in Japan, climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro in Africa, and thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail in the US. We had a terrific dinner conversation, sharing our various travel highlights and divulging our bucket lists of future trekking goals.
Pak also lamented how little rice was served in this part of Spain. Steamed rice is a staple in his diet back home, and he desperately missed eating it. Bread simply wasn’t a adequate substitute in his opinion, and he quizzed Julian to see if he’d possibly find steamed rice when he arrived in Galicia – where paella is a popular local dish.
Pak’s query made me realize how lucky I have it out here. While it’s challenging to maintain a vegetarian diet in Spain, at least I’ve been able to find foods that satisfy my food cravings.
And in the end, dinners like this are one of the things I’ve really come to enjoy about the Camino. Walking out in nature all day is something I truly cherish. And, sharing good conversation in the evenings with the community of people on parallel journeys makes the Camino even more fulfilling.
