In February, I publicly announced my plans to walk 400+ kilometers on the Via Francigena. Soon afterward, several friends began referring to this upcoming trek as my “Italian Camino.” I can see their point of view. This new pilgrimage resembled my other trips on the Camino de Santiago in multiple ways:
- Both walks are in Western Europe.
- The two journeys are based on medieval pilgrimage routes.
- Travellers on both of these routes are referred to as pilgrims.
- Hikers on both treks get stamps in a pilgrim’s passport.
- Each pilgrimage has roots in the Catholic church and passes near beautiful European churches.
Nevertheless, the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James) and the Via Francigena (Road from France) are completely separate experiences. Here’s a quick overview of the 11 biggest differences for anyone considering a walk on the Via Francigena.
#1 – The dominant culture
The Camino de Santiago is predominantly a Spanish experience. Pilgrims can take various Camino routes – sometimes beginning in France, Portugal, or Spain – but their pilgrimage always concludes at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Spain – the reputed resting place of St. James. As a result, pilgrims walking this route will need to rely on the Spanish language and experience Spanish culture and food during their walk.
By comparison, the Via Francigena is mainly a French and Italian trek. Pilgrims may walk the entire route or limit themselves to a single section in southern England, France, Switzerland, or Italy. The most popular section of the Via Francigena is the final 430 kilometers in Tuscany. This pilgrimage concludes at St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City, Rome, near the final resting places of St. Peter and St. Paul. As a result, Italian culture and cuisine tend to dominate the experiences on this route.
#2 – The length & Direction of each pilgrimage
The Camino de Santiago is a tapestry of routes of varying lengths. Pilgrims can walk one of the longer paths, such as the Camino Francés (800 kilometers from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France) or the Camino del Norte (820 kilometers from Irun, Spain). Alternatively, they can opt for a shorter route, such as the Camino Portugués (280 kilometers from Porto, Portugal) or the Camino Primativo (320 kilometers from Oviedo, Spain). These varied paths cross Spain from multiple directions in their effort to arrive in Santiago de Compostela, in the northwest corner of the country.
By comparison, the Via Francigena is a single 2,000-kilometer route that runs from the UK to central Italy. It begins in Canterbury, England, and continues south across the English Channel, through France, over the Swiss Alps, and into Italy, where the journey concludes at St. Peter’s Square in Rome. Some pilgrims may also continue their journey south to the Apulian ports, where boats historically took pilgrims to Jerusalem.
#3 – Route Markings
The Camino de Santiago is marked with yellow arrows and scallop shells that point pilgrims toward Santiago de Compostela. These route markings are abundant, especially as pilgrims reach the final 100 kilometers before Santiago. Pilgrims also regularly encounter concrete distance markers called mojones (milestones) or plinths. Numerous commercial guidebooks and digital products are available to help pilgrims plan and follow their route, including navigation apps from Wise Pilgrim, Gronze, and FarOut.
Instead of yellow arrows and scallop shells, the Via Francigena route is marked with red and white-striped markers and/or the black silhouette of a pilgrim. There are many variations of these markings, and they appear less frequently than the Camino (especially in larger cities). Moreover, the autonomous region of Aosta Valley—located along the Swiss-Italian border—uses yellow signs instead of red/white ones. Fewer guidebooks are available for route planning on the Via Francigena, and the free app created by the trail organization and AllTrails seemed to be the primary commercial navigation tools.
#4 – Density of pilgrims
The number of pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago has steadily increased since the 1990s, with roughly 500,000 people making a pilgrimage in 2024. Approximately 33% of these pilgrims only walk the final 100 kilometers of the journey, the minimum distance required to obtain a Compostela. Nearly half of the pilgrims on the various Camino routes are Spanish, with the other largest populations hailing from Portugal, South Korea, the US, and Italy.
By comparison, the Via Francigena is a much quieter experience. Officials estimate that only 50,000 pilgrims walk the Via Francigena each year, with many pilgrims beginning in Tuscany (the final 400-500 kilometers before Rome). Most of the Via Francigena’s pilgrims are Italian, with the other large pilgrim populations coming from France, Sweden, the US, and Australia.
#5 – Accomodations For Pilgrms
The Camino de Santiago includes a robust network of dormitory-style hostels called “albergues” along each route. These pilgrim accommodations include public and private albergues. The public albergues operate on a first-come, first-served basis, usually cost €8-12 per night. Meanwhile, private albergues often have more amenities, allow reservations, and cost €12-40 per night. Pilgrims walking the Camino are a significant tourism element for the local economy each year, making it extremely easy to find albergues in Spain’s rural and urban areas.
Meanwhile, the Via Francigena has a much more limited network of pilgrim accommodations. Some churches and monasteries will lodge pilgrims for a donation (usually €10-40), and there are also private hostels (“ostelli“) that are relatively affordable. However, none of the countries along this pilgrimage route rely on the Via Francigena as a significant source of tourism dollars. Thus, pilgrims often vie with ordinary tourists for lodging in B&Bs, gîtes, agriturismos, and private hotels during their walk, and will need to budget between €50-100 per night.
#6 – Taxes & FEES
One of the best things about traveling in Europe is that prices tend to be all-inclusive. In Spain, when you order a meal at a restaurant and the menu lists the price as €20, then that is precisely what you will pay. There’s no additional sales tax added to the bill when you receive it. Nor is there an expectation of tipping the waitstaff. You merely pay the advertised amount. This holds true with lodging as well. If the albergue on the Camino de Santiago costs €15, then that’s the full cost. Any local or hospitality taxes are already included in the price.
In Italy, the cost of an item isn’t always as straightforward as in Spain. When you eat at a restaurant, a fee of €2-3 per person is typically added to your bill. This amount is referred to as a “coperto,” which essentially serves as a cover charge for the table linens, silverware, condiments, and bread. This is not a tourist tax put on unsuspecting travelers. Locals have to pay the “coperto” too. It’s just part of the Italian dining culture. Similarly, pilgrims in Italy should expect to pay an additional city tax of between €2 and €7 on accommodations when checking in. Whether you stay in a hostel, a private room, or a hotel, this local tax will not be included in your online reservation. Instead, this city tax is collected in person, so keep some extra Euros in your wallet to pay the tax upon check-in.
#7 – FINISHER’S Certificate
At the end of the Camino de Santiago, pilgrims can obtain a finisher’s certificate called a “compostela.” To be eligible for this document, the pilgrim must have walked 100 kilometers on any Camino route, and their motivation must be at least partially spiritual or religious. (NOTE: a distance certificate is also available for those walking for non-religious reasons.) At the end of their Camino journey, pilgrims head to the Pilgrim’s Office (“Oficina de Peregino“) in Santiago de Compostela, where they present their “credential” and obtain a personalized compostela courtesy of an efficient and streamlined process.
Anyone walking at least 100 kilometers of the Via Francigena can also obtain a finisher’s certificate, known as a “testimonium,” from the Catholic Church. Pilgrims concluding their journey in Rome acquire this certificate at St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. Those presenting their “credenziale” at the Vatican are permitted to use a special route called the “Percorso Preghiera” (prayer route) instead of the main tourist entrance to the basilica. However, all visitors must first undergo security screening by the Vatican City. Because fewer pilgrims are obtaining a “testimonium” on any given day, the process is still very bureaucratic and slow.
#8 – Dining on the route
Breakfast in Spain is well-suited to walkers. Many bars open for coffee and a pastry as early as 6 or 7 am, allowing pilgrims to get an early start. And Spain’s “second breakfast” tradition, between 10 am and noon, makes for an ideal mid-morning break. During the larger afternoon meals, restaurants may offer a “menu de peregrino” (pilgrim’s menu), consisting of a hearty meal ideal for budget-conscious pilgrims. Moreover, many establishments along the more popular Camino routes cater to pilgrims’ desire for earlier dinner hours, allowing them to head off to bed early rather than waiting for the more typical 9 or 10 pm Spanish dinner hour.
Pilgrims on the Via Francigena will find they must adapt to the local country’s restaurants and meal hours during their walk. Lunch (“pranzo“) is the main meal in Italy, typically eaten between 12:30 and 2 pm, while dinner (“cena”) is a smaller meal, usually served around 8 pm. The pilgrims’ menu doesn’t generally exist on the Via Francigena; however, meals in Italy are plentiful and usually include multiple courses: “antipasti” (appetizers), “primi” (pasta or risotto), “secondi” (main courses), followed by “dulce” (dessert or coffee). Plus, pilgrims can always find pizza and gelato to match even the pickiest of palates!
#9 – Coffee Culture
Spain’s most popular coffee drink is the “café con leche,” a blend of equal parts espresso and steamed milk, and Spain’s version of a latte. Whenever I’m walking the Camino, I always start off with a café con leche at breakfast to get my day going. Then, I often stop to linger over a second one during my mid-morning break at a bar or cafe along my Camino route. Pilgrims can order other coffee drinks in Spain, like a “café” (espresso) or an “Americano” (espresso with water), but the “café con leche” is king.
Italians also love their coffee. However, there are some notable differences in the coffee culture between Spain and Italy. “Caffè” (espresso) is the primary type of coffee served throughout the day, and Italians generally prefer not to serve heavier milk-based coffee drinks, like “cappuccino” or “latte macchiato,” after breakfast. So, if it’s after 10 am, and you really want milk with your coffee, consider ordering a “caffé macchiato” (espresso with a dash of milk) to avoid any odd glances from the locals. Another unique cultural quirk is that Italians often drink their coffees “al banco” (standing at the bar), as ordering them “al tavolo” (at a table) incurs an additional charge of €1-2 in larger cities.
#10 – Architecture and History
The architecture throughout the Iberian peninsula reflects the many influences from Spain’s rich and varied history. In southern Spain, visitors might see buildings with a strong Moorish influence with arches and geometric tiles. Elsewhere, you might find a mix of Renaissance architecture, Spanish Baroque buildings, Gothic cathedrals, and iconic sculptural museums like the Guggenheim in Bilbao. From the 15th to 19th centuries, the Spanish colonial period spread its architectural influence, language, and culture to the New World. As a result, many American pilgrims may feel right at home as they pass stucco homes with red-tiled roofs along their Camino.
The history and architecture along the Via Francigena is completely different from the Camino. Pilgrims who walk through the French countryside may see more Gothic, Romanesque, and Baroque churches. As they head into Switzerland, more Neoclassical and Art Nouveau buildings appear along with the quintessential chalet-style homes in the Alps. Then pilgrims head into Italy – the home of the Roman Empire and the Renaissance, along with their respective influences on art and architecture.
#11 – Cost
Perhaps one of the best things about the Camino de Santiago is its affordability. Pilgrims from many economic backgrounds can trek through Spain without breaking the bank. It’s very easy to walk the Camino on a daily lodging and food budget of just €35-50. Few walking vacations can compete with the Camino in that regard, and much of this is due to the robust public and private “albergue” network in Spain, where you can get a bed for as little as €10 per night.
The daily cost of walking the Via Francigena will be at least double or triple the amount spent on the Camino de Santiago. The biggest cost difference between these two pilgrimages is lodging. The Via Francigena offers some modestly priced options; however, pilgrims often need to stay in private accommodations that cost upwards of €50-100 per night, which can be a significant hit to a frugal budget.
Final Thoughts
Although the Camino de Santiago and Via Francigena are both excellent pilgrimage choices, some major differences between the two routes set them apart.
If this is your first walking experience in Western Europe, I recommend you begin with one of the Camino routes for the following reasons:
- Navigation and logistics on the Camino tend to be much easier.
- Albergues are plentiful and more affordable.
- There are options for baggage transfer using the local post office (Correos).
- And, there is a much higher probability that you will cross paths with other pilgrims to share the spirit of the Camino.
Each of these elements can make your European trek more enjoyable, particularly if you are not fluent in the local language.
However, the Via Francigena might be the perfect adventure if you’ve already walked the Camino de Santiago and are looking for a new challenge. This European route is less crowded, allows for different cultural and culinary experiences, and is one of the best routes that any religious pilgrim or secular walker can take to Rome.
