Distance Traveled: 26 km (via rail from Pisa to Lucca)
Distance Walked: 5 km in Pisa + 18.5 km on the Via Francigena
I woke up this morning in Pisa and decided to take a detour over to the infamous leaning tower in the Piazza di Duomo before leaving town. Although it was still early, there were plenty of tourists there taking photos pretending to hold the tower. Afterwards, I took the 30-minute train ride to Lucca, where I’d officially begin my hike on the southern 430 kilometers of the Via Francigena. Today was meant to be a shorter day, so I spent the rest of my morning exploring this historic walled city and tracking down a place to purchase my €8 credenziale (pilgrim passport) for this journey. Once I actually began walking south, the first stage wasn’t anything like I’d expected it to be. I’d envisioned the rolling hills of Tuscany with vineyards. Instead, I was mostly walking on sidewalks through Lucca’s sprawling suburbs and exurbs, looking for the bumper sticker-style Via Francigena markers. I only saw two pilgrims today, but perhaps I was just behind the crowd due to my late start. When I finally walked into Altopascio near 5 pm, I was surprised to run into a crowd of mourners leaving a funeral. I didn’t know it then, but this event was foreshadowing another major funeral in my near future.
Welcome to Italy! I decided to begin my day with a walk over the River Arno and into the city to PisaThe beautiful Battistero di San Giovanni in PisaBanner announcing Jubilee 2025Pisa Cathedral and its infamous leaning bell tower (it almost looks straight at this angle)After a quick selfie with the Leaning Tower of Pisa, I walked to the train station to buy my ticket to Lucca.It was just a quick 30-minute train ride to Lucca, then I made my way into the historic walled city through one of the massive arched entrancesAt several places around the inner city, visitors can find ramps or stairs that lead up to the top of the wallsI was shocked to find paved paths and trees atop the wide rampart walls encircling the city. It’s like an elevated park 30+ feet in the airBack down below, I walked through the maze of streets taking in the springtime flowers and lovely buildingsAfter purchasing my credenziale, I made my way over to the Duomo di San Martino to tour this exquisite cathedral, built in 1063 ADThre was even a special pilgrims’ entrance (porta del pellegrino) for Jubilee, and I got my first stamp in my credenzialeInside the catherdral, there were many artwork mediums to capure my eyeI particularlly loved this beautiful mural and stained glass windows above the altarAnd, naturally, there were lots of marble sculptures. It is Italy after all.Once I left the walled city and began my 18-km walk south, I felt like I was on a scavenger hunt to find the route. This sun-faded Via Francigena sticker on a lightpost wasn’t exactly the most prominent marker to catch a person’s eye. Between the busy roadways, stucco homes, and industrial areas, today’s route wasn’t nearly as scenic as the trek I’d been dreaming about But there were moments of beauty here and there if you looked hard enough.One of the more surprising sights today was these riders on the paved streets. I didn’t pass a single horse pasture or stable, so I have no idea where these horses came from.When I reached Pocari, I made a detour up a very steep hill to check out this church and bell tower before returning to the route to look for a park where I could eat my picnic lunch of focaccia and fruitA few kilometers before Altopascio, I passed my first pilgrim hostel, but I still didn’t see any pilgrims. This was definitely a different experience than the Camino de Santiago. Where are the people?On my way into Altopascio, I was somewhat surprised to run into a large group of mourners leaving a church after a funeral. I had no idea the entire country would soon be mourning.Altopascio was a cute and colorful stop for the evening. But I still don’t feel like I’m walking a pilgrimage yet. Maybe tomorrow I’ll finally meet some pilgrims.Unlike other routes, the Via Francigena is all over the place when it comes to its route markings. Here’s just a small sample of markers I saw on my first afternon.
Highlights
My little detour to see the leaning tower of Pisa this morning put a smile on my face. I haven’t been here in ages.
Lucca was a charming city with its maze of streets inside the walls and the park-like atmosphere up on the rampart walls.
I got my credenziale, and became an official pilgrim on the Via Francigena. The perks are already paying off, with a special admission price and a pilgrim entrance to the Duomo in Lucca.
Challenges
I was worried that walking the Via Francigena during a Jubilee year (which occurs every 25 years) might amount to too many pilgrims for the route. But the opposite seems to be true. I hardly saw anyone today.
Today’s route out of Lucca was not very scenic. It was mostly sidewalks and walking through neighborhoods on the exurbs of the town.
My eyes are still getting used to the Via Francigena markings. I’m so used to the frequent yellow arrows and scallop shells of the Camino de Santiago.
