Mt. Elbert - Colorado's High Point

Order of Visit: High Point #43

Date Visited: September 2, 2021

Route Taken: North Elbert Trail – 8.8 miles miles round-trip from the trailhead. (NOTE: The trailhead was closed for construction when I visited in September 2021, so I had to park near near the Halfmoon East Campground. This added an additional mile (each-way) of walking on dirt road to get to/from the trailhead.)

Type of Terrain: The first 2.4 miles of the trail is a moderately challenging climb through forest. As the trail rises above treeline, the terrain transitions to alpine vegetation. The route from here to Mt. Elbert’s summit is completely exposed on a steep slope that ranges from 20-30% in grade.

Elevation: 14,433 feet

Ancestral Lands: Ute

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Mt. Elbert was named for Samuel Hitt Elbert, who served as the territorial governor of Colorado from 1873 to 1874, and later as Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Colorado from 1879-1883.

Elbert, a lawyer and Ohio native, moved to the Colorado Territory in 1862 to work as the Territorial Secretary almost 15 years before Colorado would become a state. While serving in that position, he helped organize and mobilize the 2nd and 3rd Colorado Volunteer regiments for the U.S. Civil War and helped form the Colorado Republican Party.

In 1873, the territory’s residents petitioned the federal government to remove the current Territorial Governor (former Union General) Edward Moody McCook, and President Ulysses Grant appointed Samuel Elbert in his stead. Within months, Governor Elbert invited President Grant to visit the Rockies.

When Grant arrived, Governor Elbert accompanied the President to a meeting where the controversial Brunot Treaty with the Ute tribe was brokered. This agreement would open more than 3,000,000 acres of native lands to mining and railroad activity. In response, the local Anglo miners (who significantly benefited from this treaty’s errant windfall) named the state’s highest peak in Elbert’s honor.

In 1998, the College of William and Mary petitioned the U.S. Board of Geographic Names to re-name the peak ‘Mount William and Mary’ because of their extensive high altitude research on the mountain. However, the application was rejected because the Virginia-based college lacked sufficient ties to Colorado.

The College of William and Mary renewed their re-naming effort again in 2015, but opposition in nearby Leadville, Colorado, and a well-organized grassroots campaign led the board to reject the application once again. As so, the peak remains Mt. Elbert (for now).

TRIP SUMMARY

My visit to Mt. Elbert was last of my summer 2021 highpointing adventures. I’d begun the season with Mt. Whitney right before Memorial Day, and then traveled six (easy to moderate) high points over the summer, before planning to bookend the season with the second highest summit in the contiguous U.S.

In researching this trip, I learned there were two main routes up to the top of Mt. Elbert – the North Trail and the South Trail. I didn’t really have a preference of which one to hike. The North Trail is shorter, at 4.4 miles each way, but it’s also steeper with 4,400 feet of gain during the ascent (an average of 19% grade). Meanwhile, the South Trail is a bit longer at 6.8 miles each way and 4,800 feet of gain (or average of 13% grade).

Having learned my lesson on Mt. Whitney, I planned to spend a few days prior to my ascent acclimating to the high altitude on the local trails. I didn’t want to have to go from sea level to above 14,000′ in a matter of hours again.

I booked a room at a wonderful hostel in Leadville, Colorado, which caters to hikers, trail runners, and other outdoor enthusiasts. At 10,151 feet, Leadville is the highest incorporated city in the state, which made it the perfect launching point for some day hiking on the nearby Colorado Trail.

In the end, I opted for the North Mt. Elbert Trail though simply because it was the closer of the two trailheads to my accommodations.

In hindsight, I should have known this hike up Mt. Elbert wasn’t going to be a cakewalk. Although I did several 3-hour hikes along the Colorado Trail at 10,000-12,000′ elevation in days leading up to my summit bid to help acclimate, I made several key mistakes along the way.

First off, I didn’t get enough sleep the night before my hike. Perhaps it was nerves, but I just couldn’t fall asleep. I tiredly struggled for slumber until sometime after midnight and then repeatedly woke throughout the night to check the current time.

The final straw came at 4 am when a text from a friend in Germany woke me up. The chime of an incoming text message wouldn’t typically bother me because I don’t normally sleep with my phone resting right on the pillow next to my head. But I was staying in a shared room at the hostel that night, and I didn’t want to rouse everyone else when my alarm went off at 5 am.

I laid in my bed for the next 40 minutes after the text woke me up, but I never fell back to sleep. So, in the end, I only got about four restless hours of sleep before my climb up Mt. Elbert.

My second critical mistake was my food plan. After getting up (for good) at 4:45 am, I dressed and consumed a cup of black coffee, a banana and stick of cheese. Then I made a run for my rental car and quickly tossed everything inside while trying to avoid the pouring rain around me.

In my haste, I put threw my daypack into the passenger seat and my bag of snacks/food for this hike went into the back seat. Then I took off for the early morning drive to the trail.

When I got to Halfmoon Campground, about a mile shy of the North Elbert Trailhead, the rain slowed to just a few sprinkles. However, I now had a new issue. The dirt road was closed to vehicle traffic. I’d need to park and hike the remaining mile to the trailhead in the dark.

As I grabbed my daypack and headlamp out of the rental car, I completely forgot my snacks were in the back seat. My pack felt plenty heavy because I had three bottles of liquid for the hike, so I didn’t even notice that I left my food behind. In fact, I wouldn’t discover my omission until I got all the way down to the trailhead! A full mile away.

Once I realized my mistake, I had to weigh walking another 2 miles (roundtrip) to return to the car to grab my snacks or just press on with the meager breakfast already disappearing in my stomach.

I went for the second option, rationalizing that I still had an “emergency” granola bar tucked in my pack somewhere. It was better to get up on the trail early than waste another 40 minutes or more going back for food. After all, it was already 6:07 am.

As I began the hike on the still-dark trail, I had to be careful not to trip on the rocks protruding from the ground The first quarter mile of trail was pretty mellow in terms of incline, but it was lousy with rocks.

Before long, I was at the a junction with the Colorado Trail (and the Continental Divide Trail since they are one-in-the-same through this section of Colorado). A nice large wooden sign pointed me left and I followed the route toward Mt. Elbert.

Trail junction (viewed later in the daylight)

The Colorado Trail was much better groomed and missing all the rocks, but it was also where the climbing began. I was keeping a good pace and even passed several people at the trail rose through the forest.

By 6:20 am, I no longer needed my headlamp to see the route in front of me and I felt like I was making good time.Perhaps my acclimation hikes over the past two days made a real difference! I was feeling strong. My head was clear, despite the lack sleep, and I was eager to get up this mountain.

After about a mile of moderately challenging switchbacks, the trail leveled off and my calves got a nice respite from the incline. The next 1/5 of a mile was virtually flat and lovely. If this was the harder of the two approaches up Mt. Elbert, it wasn’t nearly as bad as I’d expected.

But before long, I was at another trail junction. The Colorado Trail/CDT continued straight ahead, while the North Elbert Trail (#1484) climbed up to my right. I should have known it wasn’t going to be that easy.

The next mile was filled with more climbing intermixed with ongoing trail maintenance projects. The 14er’s Initiative had signs out announcing their work, and small pink pin flags marked several future trail projects. WIth 20,000-25,000 people climbing Mt. Elbert each year, I’m confident the this trail definitely needs constant love and attention.

Around this point, a 20-something guy in a blue jacket passed me. He was carrying a camera on a tripod and kept putting it down, and recorded himself walking past it, before turning around to retrieve it again.

I guess he was just one more hiker wanting to become “YouTube famous” like Kraig Adams. When he pulled his drone out and launched it, I could barely suppress a chuckle. It seemed like a lot of work, and I’d rather focus my attention on hiking.

As I finally reached an opening in the trees, the sun was out and burning bright. It seemed to be shaping up to be a lovely day to summit the mountain.

As I stopped to take a few photos of the surrounding area, I felt my stomach grumbling with hunger. Time to make a quick stop to rest and eat my emergency snack. The next two miles above treeline were supposed to be the most difficult and I’d need the extra energy.

I knew from my research that this route had several false summits that trick you into believing it won’t be quite as hard. You focus your attention on the highest point you can see, only to crest it and realize there is much more climbing ahead of you.

Looking ahead at Mt. Elbert in the early morning sunshine

Although my legs relatively felt strong thus far, my third mistake of the morning was about to be revealed.

In my desire to pack light for this trip, I’d flown out to Colorado with just a carry-on bag and my daypack. I’d managed to squeeze in a rain jacket, rain pants, a puffy coat, two pairs of gloves, a brimmed hat, a beanie hat, a buff, and all the warm layers of clothing I thought I might need for this journey up to 14,433′.

The one thing I didn’t bring? My trekking poles.

TSA won’t let you bring trekking poles in your carry-on luggage when flying. So I had to weigh my options. Were trekking poles really necessary for a day hike? I’d gone up Mt. Marcy just a few weeks ago without any poles, and that was a much longer hike. How hard could it be? After all, lots of people hike up Mt. Elbert without them, and I’m (at least arguably) much more fit than the average person.

Although I didn’t miss my trekking poles for the first 2.6 miles of my hike up to treeline, the final two miles were a completely different beast altogether! Not only was the trail getting much steeper (it would be a 20-30% grade the rest of the way), but the air was so much thinner as I ascended from 12,000 feet to above 14,400 feet.

I could see people above me slowly working their way up the trail, and we were all playing the same game in the thin air. Walk 15-20 steps, then stop and rest for three deep breaths. Walk 20 more steps, and stop and breath. Rinse and repeat.

Although it only took me 90 minutes to hike up to treeline, it would take two full hours to hike the last two miles. I was literally walking at 1 mph!! And yet, I felt like it took every last bit of my energy.

During one of my stops to catch my breath, I pulled my jacket out of my pack too. The temperature was plunging and I definitely needed an extra layer to keep warm.

By now, the sun that I’d seen earlier in the morning was no longer visible. Clouds were moving in and the views were becoming more and more limited.

The trail seemed like it would never end. I caught and passed several more people, which was somewhat amusing given how utterly slow I was going. But the thin air and steep terrain was taking its toll on all of us.

I began to wonder if I’d made a mistake by approaching Mt. Elbert on the north trail. Maybe it would have been easier from the south. I wouldn’t even get the benefit of hiking a shorter distance on this route, given the extra miles I’d have to walk to and from the trailhead due the road closure. In the end, I’d do exactly the same distance AND still hike the steeper route.

I knew I was almost to the top when I crested the ridgeline near a 6-foot tall rock pile. A couple of hikers walking toward me cheered me on and they told me I was only 5 minutes away. From here, the trail was mostly flat as the ridge curved toward the summit on its final approach.

Then, I could see a small sign sticking up beside the trail. This spot was where the north and south trails merged. I was only about a football field’s length from the summit. Just a little bit further to go.

The summit was virtually empty when I arrived. The drone guy was just heading back down, and there were two guys huddled in nearby windbreak made from rocks as they ate a snack.

So it was just me and the tall, slender tree limb sticking up from the ground to mark the summit.

A small white sign announcing Mt. Elbert’s elevation sat propped between some nearby rocks so it wouldn’t blow away. Then I looked around for an ammo can with a summit register so I could sign my name and record my 43rd state hight point.

Unfortunately there wasn’t anything up there for me to sign. Maybe 20,000-25,000 people was just to many potential names to record in a log each year.

With no views to really take in, I took a selfie with the sign and decided to head back down. It took me 3.5 hours to get up here and my head was pounding with a dull headache from the high altitude, while my stomach was growling from intense hunger.

Looking at my summit photo now, I feel as if I look a decade older atop Mt. Elbert. It’s amazing what fatigue and hunger can do to the body.

As I turned to make my way back down, the cloudy skies had one more surprise in store for me. They weren’t just blocking the summit views of everything below. They were weather clouds bringing small hail and icy rain my way. Ah man!

The first mile back down was super slow thanks to the steep terrain. I could breathe a bit easier, but I still had to watch my step so I didn’t slip on the now-slick rocks and trail.

As I descended, I caught a few glimpses between the clouds of the deep valleys that sat below Mt. Elbert. I could only imagine how awesome this must look on a clear day with sunny skies. Unfortunately, I wouldn’t get to enjoy them today.

After the first mile of descent, I was able to pick up my pace a bit. The lower I got, the better the trail seemed to become. I was no longer worried about turning an ankle or slipping on rocks, and I just let gravity do its job and pull my body down to a lower elevation.

Once I made it back to treeline, the clouds seemed to part once again. It was as if their presence was just a cruel joke to momentarily obscure my views atop Mt. Elbert. The sun was now shining and I could see alpine lakes below me as I merged back with the Colorado Trail once again.

The final mile down to the trailhead seemed to last forever. It wasn’t difficult hiking, but my mind and body were just completely spent.

Maybe if I’d gotten more sleep last night, I would have had more energy now… Maybe if I hadn’t forgotten my food, I wouldn’t be so damn tired… Maybe if I’d brought my trekking poles, the fatigue wouldn’t be so overwhelming… Ah well, such is life.

When I made it back to the North Mt. Elbert trailhead once more, I checked my watch. It was 12:07 pm. It took me 6 hours – to the minute – to summit Mt. Elbert. Three and a half hours to get up, and only two and half hours to get back down.

The sun was now shining brightly. Only one more mile back to the car. The dirt road stretched before me like one final challenge. Even though it was flat compared to what I’d just hiked, I was exhausted and my sore feet just shuffled forward.

I was overjoyed when I finally to the sawhorses and signs blocking the road. I’d made it. High point #43 was in the books!

DETAILS

When to Visit: This trail is open year-round, but peak season is late June to early September due to the high elevation and snow. Visitors should note the Colorado Rockies also experience a monsoon season with heavy rains and lightning in the summer. To avoid this hazard, hikers should aim to summit Mt. Elbert before 11 am so they can return below treeline prior to the dangerous afternoon storms.

Getting There: Mt. Elbert is located approximately 110 miles west of Denver. The North Elbert Trailhead is located off Highway 110 near the Elbert Creek Campground, while the South Elbert Trailhead is off Highway 82 west of the Twin Peaks Campground.

Fees/Permits: None, unless you are part of a commercial group or organized group.

High Altitude: Mt. Elbert is the 2nd tallest mountain in the contiguous U.S. at 14,433′ above sea level. The North Elbert trailhead sits at 10,400 feet and ascends 4,000 feet in just 4.4 miles. This rapid, high-altitude ascent can result in Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and other dangerous physical conditions (HAPE/HACE). Hikers should descend to lower elevation quickly if they experience dizziness or difficulty breathing during this ascent.

Parking: Parking for the North Mt. Elbert Trail is located on the south side of Highway 110 and can fit about 30 cars when it’s open. There are pit toilets in the parking area, but no water. When I visited, both the trailhead and the toilets were completely closed, and hikers had to park near Halfmoon East Campground and walk the final mile in/out.

WAG Bags: Due to its fragile alpine environment and lack of bacteria in the soil, all waste – including human waste and pet waste – must be carried out. The U.S. Forest Service asks all visitors to bring a wag bag or other waste disposal bags for this purpose.

Accessibility: As the second tallest mountain in the contiguous United States, this adventure requires a high degree of fitness and stamina. Visitors should also expect the air temperature to drop 20-25 degrees between the trailhead and the summit.

Bonus: Visitors who use the North Elbert Trail get the opportunity to briefly hike on the Continental Divide Trail (or CDT). This National Scenic Trail runs approximately 3,100 miles from Mexico to Canada, and this section of the CDT also doubles as part of the 500-mile Colorado Trail. The nearby town of Leadville is a gateway community for CDT/CT hikers, and there are multiple opportunity to see even more of Colorado’s beautiful scenery via multiple local trailheads.