Order of Visit: High Point #12
Date Visited: May 31, 2019
Route Taken: Rhododendron Trail & Appalachian Trail from Massie Gap – 8 miles roundtrip
Type of Terrain: Well-defined trail over highlands, rolling hills, and some rocky terrain
Elevation: 5,729 feet
Ancestral Lands: Cherokee, Yuchi, Moneton
What’s in a name?
Mt. Rogers – and the surrounding national recreation area surrounding it – was named in honor of William Barton Rogers (1804-1882), Virginia’s first state geologist.
Originally a physics and chemistry professor at the College of William and Mary, Rogers developed a keen passion for geology after his brother, Henry, returned from England having just studied the subject there.
In 1835, Rogers lobbied the state legislature to undertake a geologic survey of the commonwealth of Virginia (which still included both Virginia and now-West Virginia), and Rogers was subsequently named with organizing and leading the survey.
Meanwhile, Rogers’ brother was named as the state geologist for Pennsylvania, and the two siblings became obsessed with studying the historic geology of the Appalachian Mountains.
While conducting the state’s survey, Rogers moved to the University of Virginia, where he soon added minerology and geology to the school’s curriculum. He remained at UVA until 1853, with hopes of creating a rigorous education program primarily focused on technical and scientific studies. However, the political climate in Virginia forced him to reconsider those plans after a fanatical student shot one of Rogers’ close friends for opposing separation from the Union.
Rogers resigned his post at UVA and relocated north. And in 1861, he finally fulfilled his dream by founding a science-focused university in Boston. He named it the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (or MIT).
Trip Summary
For this state high point, my family and I actually approached it from two separate directions. I was thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail northbound in 2019, where Mt. Rogers is just a short 0.5 mile jaunt off the trail.
Keith and Finn were staying in nearby Grayson Highlands State Park and wanted to joined me so we could all tag Mt. Rogers’ together. So their version of the hike was an out-and-back route, while mine was a continuous journey on the AT.
Grayson Highlands is located in the southwestern part of Virginia and requires driving up some ridiculously steep, winding roads to get there. (Note: if you come through Independence, VA go ahead and stop at Ciro’s Pizza’s & Subs. The food is great and the entree portions are big enough to feed two adults!)
Once inside the park, Keith and Finn headed to Massie Gap – a popular parking spot for all the day hikers who want to visit the the infamous ponies that roam the area.
From there, Keith and Finn followed the blue blazes marking the Rhododendron Trail and headed north for about 0.3 mile until they reached the Appalachian Trail. Then is was a quick left (heading south) for about 3 miles on the AT.
Once they got to the the Thomas Knob Shelter, the three of us joined forces to head up the short side trail toward the summit of Mt. Rogers. The trail junction was surrounded by blooming rhododendrons in late May, so we had a good bit to color accompanying us on the trail.
The trail to the summit wound through trees covered with moss, which can be rather dark if you visit Mt. Rogers during an overcast or rainy day like we did. But, it’s also a fairly easy climb.
Compared to the beauty of the nearby Grayson Highlands though, the summit is pretty sedate. There are no views, nor is there a sign marking the top of Mt. Rogers. Instead, there’s just a few boulders containing survey markers indicating the peak.
We arrived the same time as a larger group out hiking with their dogs, so we took turns taking photos for each other, then headed back down toward Massie Gap.
The return trip was more interesting, as it was my first opportunity to see the Grayson Highlands. The terrain is much different than the rest of the Appalachian Trail and its infamous “green tunnel.” We walked over boulders and then out on to wide expanses where we could see for miles.
As we continued back toward Massie Gap and the Rhododendron Trail, we got to pass through “Fat Man Squeeze,” a narrow tunnel between several giant boulders. There’s also a side trail around this path for those who are a bit claustrophobic and don’t want to press between the rocks.
Then we encountered the ponies! Although they are often referred to as ‘wild’ ponies, they are actually feral (domesticated animals returned to the wild). There were plenty of signs nearby warning visitors not to pet or feed the ponies, so we kept our distance. Nonetheless, they appeared to be pretty calm creatures, and some of them would walk right up to people and nudge them.
Details
When to Visit: You can access Mt. Rogers year-round, but late May and early June will showcase the area’s rhododendrons while they are in bloom.
Getting There: Mt. Rogers is located in the southwestern corner of the state, about 27 miles east of Damascus, Virginia. The most common starting point is the Massie Gap trailhead in Grayson Highlands State Park.
Entrance Fees: Day-use fees for passenger cars is $7, but increases to $10 on weekends between April to October. (Note: if you access Mt. Rogers as a Appalachian Trail thru-hiker or section hiker from outside the park, there is no entrance fee.)
Parking: A large parking lot with room for 50+ car stretch from the Massie Gap trailhead to the overnight backpackers’ lot. There are no bathrooms at the trailhead, but there is a pit toilet over at the backpackers’ lot.
Accessibility: Although getting to the summit involves a moderately long hike (8 miles round-trip), there isn’t much elevation change or tricky terrain to navigate. Visitors of most ages with the stamina to walk that distance should be able reach it with ease.
Bonus: Mile 500 for the Appalachian Trail (northbound) is in Grayson Highlands State Park near Mt. Rogers. Expect to see lots of thru-hikers if you arrive in April, May or June.
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