Ask any American to name a natural wonder of the world, and chances are, the first thing that rolls off their tongue is the Grand Canyon. It is often parodied as just “a giant hole in the ground, ” but the vast expanse of the Grand Canyon is bigger than the state of Rhode Island. That’s probably why more than 6 million visitors each year stand its edge, gazing across it and trying to take it all in.

While the Grand Canyon’s immense size is definitely awe-inspiring, I’m not sure its possible to experience the true beauty of this treasure from the top. You really need to venture inside. Seeing those steep canyon walls towering above you brings an entirely new dimension to the experience.

In fact, one of the best hiking adventures in my life was crossing through the width of the Grand Canyon on foot (also known as a Rim-to-Rim or R2R hike). Hiking down to the Colorado River and across the inside of the canyon was a spectacular experience. It was so moving, I hoped to share the same adventure with my family during our 2020 travel adventures.

It may be my personal nirvana to hike across the Grand Canyon in a single day again, but I also had to be realistic. My young teenager would probably view a R2R hike as a long, hot death march. So, I planned to slow our pace and turn it into a memorable adventure, which would (hopefully) leave him longing for more.

With a little planning and lot of luck, I successfully scored us a coveted backcountry permit so we could camp inside of the Grand Canyon overnight in late May. Unfortunately, along with so many other plans for 2020, the coronavirus pandemic turned everything on its head. The National Park Service had to temporarily close the Grand Canyon, and our backcountry permit was cancelled. So, it was on to plan B.

We settled on a new plan though. We would wait until the Grand Canyon corridor trails safely re-opened in June. Then we’d attempt a 4.5-mile hike down into the canyon and back up again – for a total of 9 miles roundtrip. It would just be a taste, rather than the full backcountry experience. But something is better than nothing, right? And so, that’s how we found ourselves standing at the Bright Angel Trailhead readying ourselves to take the plunge.

BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL

There are several trails that will allow you to explore the inside of the Grand Canyon. But one of the most popular of these trails is the Bright Angel Trail, which descends from the South Rim toward the Colorado River below. Not only is this trailhead super easy to access from the Grand Canyon Village, but it also has the several resources inside the canyon to make our hike safer and more comfortable.

As I pulled out the trusty map, I showed Keith and Finn our intended route down. I pointed out various shaded resting spots that the National Park Service built along the trail. These spots also include water faucets and even composting toilets! We planned to use these stops as our waypoints during our daytime adventure inside the Grand Canyon. First, we’d encounter the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse (aptly named because it’s a 1.5 miles down from the top of the South Rim). Next up, would be the Three-Mile Resthouse (another 1.5 miles further down into the canyon) at the 3-mile mark on the trail. Finally, if we were feeling really ambitious, we’d head to the Indian Gardens Campground, located 4.5 miles inside the canyon.

As simple as that plan sounds, this would not be an easy 9-mile hike. The real challenge with this plan was two-fold:

Our first obstacle would be the odd-terrain. Instead of hiking up to a summit, then cruising back down to our starting point, we’d be forced to flip the order. It’s bit like climbing a mountain in reverse. On a Grand Canyon hike, you descend while your legs are still fresh, then have to turn around and trudge upward on tired legs for the entire second half of your trek. This requires far more effort and energy than a typical mountain hike of similar distance.

The second challenging aspect would be the Arizona heat. The trailhead on the South Rim rests near 7,000 feet above sea level. As we dropped further down to inside the canyon during our hike, we’d find the air warming up – just like any descent off a mountain. Thus, it might be 70 degrees at the rim at the start, but it could easily be 30 degrees warmer at our turn around point down below. And that doesn’t even take into account the intense UV rays that bear down as the sun rises overhead and the shade from the canyon walls disappears between 10 am and 4 pm.

We were attempting this adventure in early June, so we knew we needed to plan for an early morning hike where we could finish before the combination of heat, steep terrain, and blistering overhead sun made the return trek unbearable.

HEADING DOWN

We were staying down in Williams, Arizona, on this particular trip, so it took us about an hour to drive to the Grand Canyon. We didn’t actually make it to the trailhead until 7:30 am, despite getting up early and rushing everyone out the door.

The air was still relatively cool when we arrived. It was only in the upper 60’s on the rim’s edge. But, I knew this window of comfort wouldn’t last, and I nudged Keith and Finn onto the trail and down toward the first resthouse as quickly as possible.

As one might expect, all of us felt plenty of energy at the start, and we were making good time as we descended the first mile. We saw close to a dozen hikers making their way back up to the South Rim. I’m not sure whether they’d come to the Grand Canyon for the sunrise or just started earlier than us, but they clearly knew about the impending heat and were beating the rush.

We only briefly stopped at the first resthouse to avail ourselves of the toilets (too much morning coffee…), then set off again down toward the Three-Mile Resthouse. The trail wound back and forth with endless switchbacks. This mindless zig-zagging was created to make the grade more tolerable to the pack animals that use the trail. But, on the positive side, it provided us with a constantly changing perspective of the canyon ahead.

As we descended further down, the real beauty of the Grand Canyon was beginning to emerge. We could see the red vertical walls climbing toward the sky. Lizards and squirrels skittered across rocks as we approached. A small rabbit sprinted across the trail. And the green plants and blooming cactus like became more prevalent beside the trail. This was what I’d hope to show my son, and pictures cannot begin to capture the emotion or nuance of the moment.

At the Three-Mile Resthouse we had a decision to make. Should we turn around here? Or do we keep going? The hike was just beginning to transition from a dirt trail to something out of another dimension. We had amazing views of the canyon ahead of us, and we could see the green oasis of the Indian Gardens Campground call us from down below.

Although the mercury was pushing 80 degrees, we decided to go for it, and we pushed onward another 1.5 miles. The next section of the hike was even more beautiful. I’m so glad we went for it. But, when we finally arrived at Indian Gardens, we all knew it was time to turn back. The morning heat was now creeping into the 90s (despite being only 9:20 am) and the sun was beating down overhead.

During our brief stop at Indian Gardens, I pulled my sun sleeves and a wide brimmed hat out of my day pack, and then soaked everything in water from the faucet to create some natural air conditioning. It was now time to began the truly hard part of this hike….going up.

PART 2 OF THE JOURNEY

The natural energy and positive attitude we’d all had on the way down wasn’t quite as evident on the way back up. Finn seemed to be in a rush to get out of the heat and was acting tired and hangry, despite having a quick snack at our turn-around point.

He was sweating a ton now, and repeatedly asking how much further we had to go. I had some mental preparation from doing this arduous trek back up to the trailhead. But, to the uninitiated, it must seem like endless journey to the top. Nowhere else does 4.5 miles feel quite as long, particularly when you are hot and tired.

One of other drawbacks of hiking back to the rim is the fact that the vast openess of the canyon is now behind you. You’re no longer distracted with the gorgeous views. Instead you become hyper-focused on the countless number of steps still ahead and the monotony of the trail. And so, it’s important to remember to stop, take breaks, and turn around and take in your surroundings. It’s not a race, and fretting over when you’ll make it to the top doesn’t improve the experience.

When we arrived at the Three-Mile Resthouse, we paused for a break and soaked our clothes in the nearby water faucet once again. The narrow slivers of shade we’d walked through on the way down had all but disappeared now. The sun was directly over us and blasting us like a furnace. So, all of us were grateful for the roof to sit under while we caught our second wind.

Then we were off again, making our way toward our next waypoint – the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse. Watching people hike down toward us during this leg of our journey made me cringe a little. Didn’t these people know how unbearably hot it was going to for their return journey? Didn’t they see the signs warning them not to hike into the canyon during the hottest part of the day? And why were some of them hiking with their shirts off? Their poor sunburned bodies were going to hurt tonight!

As we walked up to the next resthouse, a backcountry ranger was standing nearby. She encouraged people to cover up as best as they could, and to cool down by wetting down their clothes and hats in the faucets. Although we’d been doing this exact thing the entire way up, it’s amazing to discover how quickly the water evaporated from our wet clothes. It barely took any time at all!

Just beyond the Mile-and-a Half Resthouse, we had to temporarily pull off to the inside of the trail to let a mule train pass. Some Grand Canyon visitors opt to venture into the canyon riding atop mules, and the animals share the same trail we were hiking on.

Honestly, I’m not sure I’d have the confidence to ride one of these beasts down this narrow trail. And I know I definitely wouldn’t want to inhale the constant dust they were kicking up into the air as they strode past. But, to each his own, I guess.

The number of hikers on the trail continued increased during the final mile toward the top of the canyon. This made sense though. The closer were got to the trailhead, the more likely we’d encounter those who wanted to take a little peek inside without venturing too far for the conditions. Lots of young families dotted the trail. And there were plenty of tourists who weren’t really dressed for hiking, yet they kept trodding toward us in their flip flops and tank tops.

Before long, we were rounding the final few switchbacks and the end was in sight. Our Grand Canyon adventure was finally winding down. Finn was throughly relieved to see the finish line, but I can’t help but believe he’ll remember this journey more fondly after the fatigue wears off.

We hiked 9 scenic miles, and saw the Grand Canyon from a completely different perspective than most visitors who remain atop looking at the gorge. And that experience is worth more than any souvenir.

LESSONS LEARNED

If you’re interested in taking on this same hike, here are a few of our top 5 pieces of advice to make your journey more enjoyable.

Start Early in the Day. My biggest regret is how late we started our hike. Although we were on the trail by 7:30 am, I would have preferred starting at least an hour earlier, especially in June. Arizona does not participate in Daylight Saving Time, so they are in the Pacific Time Zone during this time of year. Because the state is much farther east than the rest of the time zone, sunrise is around 5:15 am. There would have been plenty of light to begin our hike earlier in the day, and we could have gotten to our turn around point before the mercury started creeping up to 90 degrees!

Bring Long Sleeves & Hap. One of the best choices we made was in our apparel. In the late spring and summer, the sun inside the canyon becomes brutal, and we were grateful for the additional UV protection of our long sleeve shirts. If you are worried long sleeves will make you overheat, in consider using a shirt designed for longer sun exposure with UPF protection, like Patagonia’s Capilene Sun Protection shirts or Columbia’s Performance Fishing Gear (PFG) shirts. And don’t forget to bring a brimmed hat to protect your head, face, and neck.

Trekking poles are optional. Many of us have a tendency to use trekking poles when hiking steeper slopes. However, they really aren’t necessary on this journey. The trail is well-graded and smooth. I had Finn collapse his poles on the ascent because they were actually slowing his momentum down and unnecessarily tiring his body down on the return journey. To avoid a similar fate, consider leaving your trekking poles at home or just use one pole for balance.

Mules. If you encounter a mile trail, remember the mules always have the right of way. Stop hiking and stand on the inside of the trail (near the canyon wall, not the edge) until the mules pass. Be careful not to startle the animals by remaining quiet and refraining from sudden moves. When in doubt, just follow the directions of the mile wrangler at the lead of the column.

Know Your Limitations. It’s easy to overdo it on this hike, especially given that the first half is so much easier than the return journey. Heed the signs that remind you, “going down is optional – hiking back up is mandatory.” Each year, National Park personnel receive over 350 requests for assistance from ill or injured hikers. And many of the factors that contribute to these requests include fatigue, heat exhaustion, and a lack of preparation or planning. Turn around before you start feeling tired.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Entrance Fees. This hike requires entry into Grand Canyon National Park. Entry fees are $20 per person or $35 per vehicle (up to a 15-passenger van), and your entrance pass is valid for up to 7 days. If you are are a more frequent visitor, you can also consider investing the America the Beautiful Park Pass. This pass costs $80, but is good for unlimited entries into ALL National Parks for 12 months.

Parking. If you’re planning on hiking on the Bright Angel Trail, the best place to park is Lot D near the Backcountry Information Office. For a map of all South Rim parking options, click HERE.

Weather. If you are hiking during the summer, expect the temperature inside the canyon to be 20-30 degrees WARMER than the temperature up on the rim. The average high temperature in the inner canyon between June and August ranges between 101-106 degrees! Also, remember that Arizona experiences monsoons from mid-July to early-September, so plan accordingly. For more info about the weather, click HERE.

Water. Remaining hydrated on this hike is essential. The arid conditions may cause you to believe you are not sweating much because the moisture will evaporate off your body and clothing quickly. It’s best to carry at least 2-3 liters of water for this hike. During the summer months, your fluid/electrolyte loss can exceed 1 liter per hour when hiking uphill in direct sunlight. 

Water Inside the Canyon. The NPS usually turns on its seasonal water faucets inside the canyon between May 15th and October 15th. The water faucets for this day hike are located at the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, Three-Mile Resthouse, and Indian Gardens Campground. However, the water may have to be turned off due to seasonal conditions or repairs. For the most up-to-day water status, check with the Backcountry Information Center on the day of your hike.

Toilets. Bathroom facilities are available near the Bright Angel Trailhead. There are also composting toilets inside the canyon at the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse, Three-Mile Resthouse, and Indian Gardens Campground.

Leave No Trace. Please remember, if you pack it in, you MUST pack it out. This includes all trash and wrappers. Please protect this national treasure.

R2R and R2R2R. Are you Interested hiking even further? Check out my other Grand Canyon hiking posts HERE.

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT HIKING THE GRAND CANYON?

Check out these other planning resources:

• Grand Canyon National Park (official NPS site)
• Grand Canyon Hike Smart (hiking tips for a safe and enjoyable Grand Canyon hike)
• Grand Canyon Topographic Map (National Georaphic)