I began this morning’s journey in Hella, Iceland, where I caught the Highland Bus to the northern terminus of the Laugavegur Trail. The F-road ride was long and bumpy, and we didn’t arrive in Landmannalaugar until 11:05. With more than 16 miles of hiking ahead before dinner, I broke away from the crowds and followed the trail signs. The first mile climbed to a meadow with cottony flowers and rhyolite hills that reminded me of the John Day Fossil Beds. Soon I passed steaming fumaroles that smelled like sulfur and evidence that Iceland’s volcanoes are still alive. The weather kept changing between clouds, rain, cold, and sunshine, and I felt like I was constantly adjusting my layers. By the time I reached the first hut (Hrafntinnusker) at mile 6.6, a biting wind met me. The next few miles were a constant series of ups and downs, an obsidian-covered trail, plus a snowfield crossing and several snow bridges. I reached the day’s high point near mile 9.5 before starting a steep downhill with switchbacks in the rain. After the river crossing, the landscape opened up to the most sweeping views on my way to the second hut (Alftavatn Hut) on the shore of Lake Alftavatn near mile 13.9. The final 3.5 miles of the early evening took me onward to two more river crossings (one with a bridge and one without) before I reached my stop at the third hut (Hvanngil Hut). This hut was far less popular than the lakefront one, and I spent the evening sharing a nearly empty room with a Dutch couple, enjoying the cozy respite from the rain and wind outside.
My 2.5-hour bus rde to the trailhead included lots of fast curves and fording a river!This is the bus that forded that river!! Icelandic bus drivers are fearless.I didn’t make it to Landmannlauger (the Laugavegur Trail’s northern terminus) until just after 11 am, so I wasted no time hitting the trail.The start of the Laugavegur TrailThe first mile of the trail required climbing between mossy basalt foothills. The red, white, and blue post indicates the route for three different trails, each one marked with its own colorFrom the top of the foothills, the trail dropped down toward a vibrant turqoise tarnCottony white flowers in a field beside the trailOh, the smell of sulfur…Icelandic sheep and rhyolite hillsThe route includes 22 metal signposts that show the distance between the hutsMore steaming fumeroles Giant chunks of obsidian dotted one of the slopesEn route to the first hut, we had to hike across a long snowfield and up to a passAt mile 6.6, I reached Hut #1 (Hrafntinnusker Hut) but didn’t stop to rest in the biting cold windStormy skies and volcanic landscape (Note: the blue posts mark the Laugavegur’s route)Eventually, the sun reappeared making the nearby slopes look vibrant and greenThe snow bridges at some of the crossings were super sketchy this late in the summerA bit of fleeting sunshine, but it’s still very coldHow is the landscape this impossible shade of green??Heading south on the Laugavegur Trail as the trail climbs toward the day’s high pointThe rain began to pour when I finally crested the trail’s high point at mile 9.5, but the rain clouds couldn’t hide the views of Alftavatn lake in the distanceAfter 15 minutes of heavy rain, the storm passed and revealed exactly why this trail was on my bucket listJust before reaching the Alftavatn Hut, there was a knee-deep river with a rope strung across it to help hikers with the water crossingAfter scouting upstream, I found an alternate crossing point that kept my feet dry. Hiking so many trails in the PNW helped build my technique for this.At mile 13,9, I reached Hut #2 (Alftavatn Hut). It might be the trail’s most popular hut because of its lakefront location and bar!Unlike most hikers, I had a reservation at the next hut, so I had to keep going for another 3.5 miles. At least my next water crossing had a bridge.Hiking toward Stórasúla in the early evening hoursViews of the Hvanngil Hut after I forded one of the last rivers of the dayHut #3 (Hvanngil Hut). The small building on the left is the outdoor toilet and showers. Ice-cold showers are free. Hot ones will cost 1,100 ISK ($9)Inside the hut, there was a small kitchen with a wood stove constantly simmering hot water for meals (left)After a long day of hiking, I ate a warm dinner and spent the evening talking with two Dutch hikers in a nearly empty hut. They were hiking the Laugavegur over 4 days and savoring the journey.
Highlights
Hiking Iceland’s premier long-distance trail has been a dream of mine for over a decade. I can hardly believe I am here, experiencing the Icelandic highlands.
So many aspects of this unique landscape reminded me of home: the volcanic terrain, the steaming fumaroles, the colorful rhyolite hills, and even the unpredictable rain.
Staying in the Havanngil Hut was so much better than tent camping. I really enjoyed talking with the Dutch hikers, and the kitchen area had hot water simmering in a large pot all evening, so I didn’t even have to boil water for dinner or coffee.
Challenges
The 2.5-hour bus ride on F-roads was a bit crazy. I never knew a giant tour bus could go that fast on dirt roads or ford that much water! It was wild.
I feel like I got all four seasons in a single day of hiking. The weather was all over the map, and I’m grateful I brought plenty of warm layers and my most robust rain layers.
