If you just looked at our beginning and ending elevation for the day, it seems like we didn’t make any progress today. That’s not very accurate though. Today we actually climbed up over 15,000 feet, but then returned to lower elevation for our next camp.
This was part of the tried and true strategy of “climb high – sleep low.” In order to help you acclimate to higher elevations, experienced guides have you to venture up to higher elevations during the day to let your body experience it for a bit. Then you return to a lower elevation to sleep so your body can recover. (This is one of the reasons there are multiple basecamps on higher mountains like Mt. Everest.)
The Alpine Desert
It was a little bittersweet to leave yesterday’s terrain. I really loved the look and feel of the moorland. Today we left it behind and ascended up to the alpine desert.
It was a lot of climbing, and the scenery was more desolate as we made our way up to the Lava Tower at 15,100 feet. This is officially the highest my body has ever been. I didn’t feel any adverse effects from the altitude, and I’m glad I opted to take the Diamox, just in case.
Several of the members of the group are experiencing headaches from the altitude, but both Sean and I seem fine. The only side effect I seem to be experiencing is my nose is constantly running from the colder temperatures up high.
Getting to know the group
We stayed up at Lava Tower for lunch so that we could experience breathing the thinner air for a while. During the meal and afterward I felt like I got to know a few of the members of the group a bit better.
There is a group of three hikers – Ivan, Yassir, and Claire -who booked this trip together. They all work for the same multinational law firm, but in different locations. Claire is French, while Ivan and Yassir are American. They all work overseas in offices in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
Of all the members of our trekking group, Ivan is seems to be experiencing the altitude the worst. He has very bad headaches and no appetite – which is making it difficult for him to feel social.
Helen and Sophie, the two ladies who travel together on an adventure vacation each year, shared a little more about themselves too. Helen is British, while Sophie is Dutch and they’re both single. They met on a trip years ago and really hit it off. Helen also seems to be over her nausea, so that’s a good thing.
Of course that brings us to Tracy. She’s on this trip by herself and the only one traveling without a partner. Tracy is American in currently in the process of moving to Alaska. So sandwiched this trip into a transition period between her old home and her new one. She also has a trip to Uganda planned after she completes Kilimanjaro, which is super exciting.
Then there’s Ken and Diane, a married could in their late 20s. Ken is an officer in the US Marine Corps and Diane is a veterinarian. When they finish this part of their trip, they are headed off to Zanzibar for a week of R&R on the beach. They are also the only two in the group who aren’t taking Diamox, but don’t seem to be suffering any side effects (yet!)
Finally, there’s Polly and Claudia. They are both British and in their early 30s. They are best friends from back home – similar to Sean and I.
Heading back down
After out lunch at the higher altitude, we set off back down to the evening’s camp at 13,000 feet. Throughout out lunch and our break, I didn’t think the altitude had much of an effect on me. But the lower we got, the easier it seemed to breathe – so, clearly there was a noticeable impact.
Our trip down to the camp was steep and rocky. Consequently, we all brought out our trekking poles to assist us and keep us from falling. We also came back down into the moorland again (yeah!), and it was so nice to see all the beautiful vegetation.
Another treat during this post-lunch leg of the trip was getting to pass by several waterfalls. According to our guides, these waterfalls feed the same river that Kilimanjaro Water uses for their bottled water products. I had a bottle of their water on our first morning in Tanzania – so no need to stop and get some here 🙂
Health check
Our semi-daily health checks at breakfast and dinner are becoming a bit humorous within in our little group. Jack Bauer messes up everyone’s name horribly.
No matter how many times we correct him, he keeps calling Sean and I by our last names. Apparently that’s our fault for writing out names on his sheet in military fashion (last name, first name) on the health sheet.
We’re not the only one though impacted though. Tracy gets called “Trace” each time he calls her over, while Yassir has somehow become a few different variations of “Jessica.” Hilarity ensures each time Jack Bauer calls his name out.
By the end of the day, I’m starting to feel pretty good about my chances of making it to the summit. Not only am I feeling physically strong, but my O2 levels are among the highest in the group during our health checks. That’s a major relief for me, given than I’m 10-15 years older than the rest of the group.
We will continue to stop and sleep around this same altitude again tomorrow before we head back up to 15,000 feet right before the summit. Given what I know about how my body is reacting to the altitude, I should make it the entire way (fingers crossed).
Final Thoughts
It’s hard to believe this trip is halfway over. It feels like we’ve been out here for much longer than four days. If all goes according to plan, we’ll be at Uhuru Peak in just two and a half more days.
Wow! Sunday morning, I’ll be on the roof of Africa watching the sunrise.
I want to slow down our progress and just soak it all in. I woke up again around 3 am to go to the bathroom and just stood outside the tent mesmerized by the stars.
The outline of the summit was visible in the moonlight and the stars were more beautiful than I’ve ever seen them. Then I saw a shooting star! Does it get better than this?
