We never really expected to visit the Porcupine Mountains. When we set out on our full-time travel, we just had a vague notion that we planned to travel east through the Great Lakes region on our way to Quebec.

As we meandered toward that destination, one of our “must see” stops was Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore up in Michigan’s upper peninsula. Unfortunately, we found ourselves 400 miles away, and that was too far for a one-day drive.

So, we pulled out the map and followed the roads heading east. That’s when Keith pointed out the Porcupine Wilderness State Park up on the south side of Lake Superior as a potential stopover.

While I love the outdoors, I generally try to avoid intentionally aiming for anywhere with “wilderness” in it’s name. It conjures up visions of people wandering around with shotguns. Or maybe some banjo music foreshadowing an unfortunate turn of events.

Despite my initial hesitation, Keith remained positive. He fondly remembered reading an article in Backpacker Magazine about the Porkies (as they are affectionately known). Apparently there was some amazing hiking there. So why not spend a few days visiting somewhere few people get to see due to its remote location?

Hiking in the Porkies

After settling into our campsite, we drove up to Lake of the Clouds. The parking lot was nearly empty – perhaps because it was lightly raining that day. Or maybe it was just because it was the middle of the week. After taking several pictures from the rock outcropping overlooking the lake, we decided to get hiking. We loaded up our picnic lunch to enjoy along the way and set off.

Heading down the North Mirror Lake trail, I was amazed by all the old growth trees in this mature forest. Continuing on, we noticed that it started to get a bit muddy and mucky. I assumed it was from the rain the past few days (though, now in hindsight it was probably from the heaps of snow that melted that Spring).

After about a mile into our hike, I started to notice the bug count was increasing. The further we ventured down the trail, the more insects seemed to swarm around me. I get welts the size of nickels whenever mosquitos bite me. Therefore, I make a habit of applying copious amounts of bug repellant to my arms and legs before we set off on any hike. But despite my attempt to avoid them, these bugs were definitely interested in getting a closer look at me.

We continued to pass some terrific scenery including a fallen tree with the most brilliant orange and yellow fungus on it. I wanted to stop to try to get dozens of pictures from multiple angles, but these crazy bugs were now really getting annoying – and I decided it was best to keep moving.

Bug-o-rama

It wasn’t much longer before we passed a group of people all decked out in their rain gear from head to toe. It seemed like a bit of overkill for a hike. I mean, there was some light rain that day, but c’mon folks you can get a little wet. Of course, I now suspect their attire had nothing to do with the weather, and everything to do with the bugs ahead.

After about two miles, we hit the junction heading to Government Peak. Keith and Finn stopped to have a discussion about whether to continue toward the lake or turn left toward Government Peak. Finn always shies away from anything with peak. Or mountain. Or summit.  He knows it means he’ll have to go up.

As they continued to stand there and “discuss” which direction to go, I impatiently burst past them. I was going up to the trail leading to Government Peak. I couldn’t just stand there getting swarmed by a gang of black flies or mosquitos any longer.

Government Peak was only 1.8 miles ahead, but we didn’t escape the throng of mutant insects until we came to the summit. By that point, I think all of us were wondering if we were going to have to walk and eat at the same time. But, luckily we found a bug-free spot to stop and enjoy some lunch.

Our respite was short-lived though, since our route back to the trailhead would take us directly back through the morass of bugginess.

At one point was so sick of the noise on the hike that I actually started walking with my fingers jammed in my ears for short bits as we made our way back. At least that way, I could enjoy what I was visually walking past, and not completely focused the audio soundtrack.

Even though we they constantly swarmed us, I have to admit I didn’t end up with an insane amount of bites.  Unless you count the stable flies (they really HURT!). Most of these bugs were just those annoying pests that buzz loudly in hordes around your head until their noise drives you insane.

So, the lesson I learned is, while the Porkies may be a rare site for most hikers, our timing was a bit off. Late June is probably a bit too close to the snow thaw to avoid this inevitable part of nature. If you decide to visit, take a head net (and possibly some earplugs) when you go!