- Oregon County HP: #8 & #9
- Difficulty: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ (on a scale of 5)
- Summit Elevation: 10,358 feet
- Mountain Range: Cascade Mountains
- Ancestral Lands: Cayuse, Umatilla and Walla Walla; Molalla; Confederated Tribes of Grand Ronde; and Confederated Tribes of Siletz Indians
PLANNING DETAILS
Location: South Sister is located approximately 25 miles west Bend, Oregon, and is the tallest in a series of three closely-spaced 10,000-foot volcanic peaks known as the Three Sisters. The trailhead sits within the Three Sisters Wilderness Area, which straddles the Deschutes National Forest and the Willamette National Forest. This summit also bisects Deschutes and Lane counties, serving as the highest natural point of both counties.
When to Visit: July to September. Some mountaineers climb South Sister in the winter and spring months. However, this volcano is the third highest peak in the state, and the hiking trail is usually covered in snow and ice until mid-June most years. Experienced climbers who wish to head to the summit outside this window should bring crampons and winter climbing gear.
Fees/Permits Required:
- Because of this hike’s popularity, a Central Cascades Wilderness Permit is required for any hikes taking place between June 15 and October 15. Permits cost $1 and must be reserved online two days prior to your desired trip date. (Note: There quotas at each trailhead in the Three Sisters Wilderness area. This hike uses the “Three Sisters – Devils Lake/South Sister (Moraine Lake) Trailhead”).
- There is a $5 parking fee for the Devils Lake parking area, payable at a kiosk in the lot.
Getting There: South Sister is most readily accessed by using the South Sister Climber Trail #36 located on the south side of the peak. The trailhead for this route is the Devils Lake Trailhead, approximately 25 miles west of Bend, Oregon.
Directions from Bend:
- From Bend Whitewater Park (Deschutes River), head west on SW Colorado Avenue for 1.3 miles until you reach the third traffic circle.
- Exit the traffic circle onto SW Century Drive and continue west for 5.3 miles.
- At the Cascades Lakes Ranger Station, SW Century Drive will automatically transition to Cascade Lakes National Scenic Byway (NF-46). Continue west for 20.7 more miles to the Devils Lake Trailhead.
- The parking area for the trailhead will be on your left side, approximately 6.5 miles beyond the Mt. Bachelor ski resort.
Directions from Eugene:
- From I-5 (exit 188), head east on Willamette Highway (OR-58) for 72 miles toward Odell Lake
- Just past the town of Crescent Lake Junction, turn left onto the Cascade Lake National Scenic Byway/Crescent cut-off and drive east for 3.2 miles.
- Turn left onto Cascade Lakes National Scenic Byway (NF-46) and head north for 41.5 miles to the Devils Lake Trailhead.
- The parking area for the trailhead will be on your right side, approximately 4 miles north of Elk Lake.
Parking: The Devils Lake Trailhead parking lot often fills up by 8 am during the summer months, so plan to arrive early. The lot has room for roughly 50 vehicles, and parking costs $5 (no fee is required if you have a Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass). Near the trailhead signs, you will find vault toilets and trash dumpsters, but NO potable water.
Pets Allowed: Yes. However, all dogs must be leashed in the Three Sisters Wilderness Area between July 15 and September 15. There is a $200 fine for unleashed dogs.
Kid Friendly: Due to the overall length of this hike, the exposed/steep grade near the summit, and the high altitude (10,000′), this hike is best for teens and adults.
Hiking Distance: 11.6 miles roundtrip via the South Sister Climbers Trail #36
The Summit: South Sister’s highest point sits on the northern rim of the volcanic crater. When hikers reach the crater’s rim, they are on the opposite (or southern side) of the peak’s volcanic crater. There are two trails leading to high point over on the northern side. The primary one curves around the top of volcano’s eastern rim (i.e., Deschutes County), and it is well-defined. Meanwhile, a more rugged trail follows the western rim (i.e., Lane County). Walking directly across the snow covered summit crater is sometimes possible with crampons; however, during summer and fall, the glacier atop the crater becomes exposed and Teardrop Lake – Oregon’s highest lake – forms in the crater’s uneroded basin.
TRIP SUMMARY
Date Visited: July 31, 2023
Hiking Route Used: South Sister Climber Trail – 11.6 miles round-trip
I knew hiking South Sister in the summer was going to be a challenge. But two days prior to my intended visit this summer, I was able to secure a Cascades Wilderness Permit. It was time to finally tick this popular day hike off my bucket list.
What’s more, getting to the top of this peak would count double on my highpointing quest. South Sister is one of the peaks in the state that’s a “two-fer,” with two Oregon counties counting this summit as their highest point. Thus, making it to the top would nab me the high point for Lane County (i.e., the county I live in) and neighboring Deschutes County.
I’d solicited some advice from others in my local community who’d already hiked this peak, and they all seemed to have the same two pieces of wisdom for me:
- Start my hike early. Everyone I talked to said to arriving at the trailhead by 7:30 am so I would be guaranteed to find a parking spot in the Devils Lake parking lot, and hopefully get up at the summit before the mid-day sun started beating down.
- Bring trekking poles. The elevation profile for this hike is a doozy. The trailhead starts at 5,690 feet, and the summit tops out at 10,358 feet, with the majority of the elevation gained in just the final mile and a half before the volcanic crater. Trekking poles would be key for making it up the final 1,000 feet of vertical feet gain and back down the initial descent on the loose scree without injury.
Both of these recommendations were solid. But it also meant I needed to leave my house in Eugene at 4:30 am to get to the trailhead before my self-imposed cut-off time.
As I drove east toward the Cascade Mountains before sunrise, I was able to avoid all the annoying summer road construction on Highway 58. But it wasn’t all smooth sailing. Shortly after driving past a series of lakes with fog settled on them in the early dawn light, I came upon a deer standing in the middle of the roadway who refused to move. I honked, but the deer just stood there until I got within 20 feet of it! As I braked to an almost complete stop, it finally decided it was time to slowly walk to the side of the highway without a care in the world.
Even with this momentary delay, I was still at the trailhead just before 7 am and the lot was already half full. With this many cars out here on a Monday, I’d speculate that South Sister would get more visitors today than my last county high point probably sees in an entire year!
After hanging my National Park Pass on my rearview mirror (in lieu of payment for parking), I grabbed my daypack, water, and my trekking poles and set off toward the well-marked trailhead for the Climbers Trail.
At first, the flat, smooth trail followed a rushing creek draining down toward Devils Lake. Then I was making my way across the asphalt where the trail crossed the scenic byway. Several cars were parked nearby – perhaps because they didn’t want to pay the parking fee at the trailhead, or maybe because the lot was already full when they arrived on a prior day and this was where overflow vehicles ended up. I didn’t know.
Once on the far side of the paved roadway, the trail began to climb uphill at a steady grade through the forest, and I was grateful that I’d begun while the summer air was still cool. As I continued up the trail, I began to worry just a bit though. I mentally recalled the elevation profile in my mind, and I thought this forested section was supposed to be the easy part. But it wasn’t exactly easy.
After about a mile and a half though, things changed. The terrain flattened out. The trees disappeared. And there, directly in front of me, I could see South Sister for the first time. It looked so close. But I knew it was still miles ahead of me and its vertical prominence was going to be a doozy.
Off to my right, a side trail led down to Moraine Lake, which wasn’t visible from the trail yet. But that would soon be remedied. And I’d be treated to turquoise lake views along with the jagged peak of Broken Top off to my east.
I’d been hiking less than an hour now, but I was catching up to the handful of hikers who’d begun before me. This trail was such a delightful surprise. The views were great. It was so well-marked and defined. It’s easy to see why this was such a popular hike. And I wasn’t even to the good parts yet.
Once the trees disappeared though, I was realizing how warm it was becoming. I was glad I’d opted for my sun hoody and sun gloves this morning to protect my upper body from the harsh UV rays. I wasn’t used to eastern Oregon’s exposed terrain, and it reminded me of hiking through the Arizona desert last spring.
This section of the trail was a like a flat plateau for at least the next mile or so. But after the nice reprieve, it began climbing again and the path became harder to find. It wasn’t so much that the trail wasn’t there, but there was a series of trails braided together now, with some taking a more direct route up the slopes, while others switchbacked to and fro.
Behind me, the ground was dropping away again as I climbed above 7,000 feet elevation. I felt great fantastic – without even the slightest hinderance or effects of the high elevation, given that I woke up this morning at barely 430’ above sea level.
Though most of the trees were gone, there were still a few here and there on the slopes. And as I passed one, a sharp movement caught my attention. Something large and brown scurried away from the trail and under the evergreens low boughs. I stopped to see what it might be, only to have it reappear and discover it was a giant marmot! And when I say giant, I mean it. This fat guy was the size of an ordinary beaver and must have weighed upwards of 10 pounds!!!
Patches of snow clung to the slopes beside the trail here, and the views of the lakes and Mt. Bachelor behind me were breathtaking. There were even some clusters of alpine flowers clinging to the unhospitable volcanic soil.
And then the trail crested a high point and the milky blue color of Lewis Tarn suddenly appeared below me, as if it were a delightful secret tucked on the slope for only those who were willing to climb this high. The alpine water filled with volcanic silt was one of the prettiest things I’d seen all summer. It was just striking to the eye with the white backdrop of Lewis Glacier and the reddish slope of South Sister sitting just above it!
Above me, I could now see a dozen or so hikers making their slow progress on the steepest part of the climb, where the trail sustains an astounding 30-45% grade. They look like tiny ants climbing the path up above.
I begin my own ascent up the ridge above the tarn through the loose sand, and it reminded me of Maunakea (Hawaii’s highest peak). But unlike that agonizing grind last November, I felt great today! I didn’t have to stop once for nausea or altitude sickness. I was rest-stepping my way up at an even pace and I felt like momentum was on my side.
After a half an hour of steady progress, I turned back around to look down at the tarn. And that was when I realized just how steep this slope really was. The water looked like a vibrantly-colored puddle from this vantage point!
It was windier than I expected as I passed 9,000 feet elevation, but the sun was still warm enough that I didn’t even need to layer up and I continue climbing. Before too much longer, I crested the edge of volcano’s summit, where a snow-filled crater opened wide in front of me. The uneroded basin was filled with snow and a glacier that was melting toward a small lake named Teardrop Pool, which is the highest alpine lake in the state.
But, I still wasn’t at the summit yet. The highest ground appeared to be the rocky outcropping on the complete opposite side of the volcano’s crater, where half a dozen people were standing. I need to circumnavigate the volcanic crater on the rim trail to get there. And I began to walk counter-clockwise using the more defined trail on the east to get there.
Once I worked my way over to the north side of the crater, a whole new view opened up to me. I could now clearly see Middle and North Sister (the other two volcanic peaks that make up the Three Sisters, which are also the 4th and 5th tallest peaks in the state).
Meanwhile, a brownish haze obscured the peaks further north – like Mt. Washington and Mt. Jefferson. Yet none of this dampened my excitement. I’d made it to the top of this county high point and it was such a beautiful scene!!
After 10-15 minutes at the summit that were filled with taking photos and eating a snack to replenish my energy, I decided I wanted to return to the Climbers Trail via the west side of South Sister’s crater. I’d undoubtedly traipsed upon the highest point of Deschutes County while coming to the summit on the east side of the mountain. But had I hit the county line with Lane County yet? I didn’t know.
There was only one surefire way to guarantee my prize, and that would be by hiking the entire circumference of South Sister’s rim. If I hiked back around the west side of the crater, I was 100% certain to step foot on both county high points.
I was the only hiker who returned to the trail via the western rim, and it was soon easy to see why. The route atop the rim was less defined here, and I even had to do a bit of minor rock scrambling and skirt the snow in places. But, I made it back to the Climbers Trail no problem just in time to discover that there were far more people coming up behind me than were ahead of me this morning.
The initial half mile back down the volcano’s southern slope is so much steeper than I remembered. It was a 40-45% grade here, and the scree and sand beneath my feet seemed to slide with every downhill step. Thank goodness I had my trekking poles. I don’t see why anyone would want to descend this sketchy slope without them!
Below me, the topaz blue of Lewis Tarn is beckoning me, and it was nearly noon by the time I finally arrived at the slope just above the water’s edge. It was definitely time for my lunch break sitting nestled in the boulders that protected me from the loud wind.
After lunch, the long descent back to the trailhead felt like a slog. The exhilaration of climbing South Sister had faded. And once I got below the windy slopes, the sun started to feel so intense as if it was burning right through me. Thank goodness I started my climb early. I could not imagine heading to the summit with this midday sun zapping all my energy.
The return journey seemed to take forever, and I definitely felt the effort of the nearly 12-mile day by the time I got back into the shade of the forest. Yet, I’m grateful. I didn’t get a single blister or even run low on water. And that’s something to celebrate, right?
I mentally cheered to myself when I eventually heard the roar of the creek once again, signaling that I was finally getting close to Devils Lake. That cool water was going to feel so good to wade in. Heck, I may even jump into the lake fully clothed!
BONUS MATERIAL
Camping nearby:
- Tumalo State Park Campground is located near US-97 approximately 6 mies north of Bend and offers 77 campsites, 7 yurts, flush toilets, hot showers, potable water, picnic tables, and access to the Deschutes River. This state park campground is open year-round and reservations are strongly recommended during the summer months as there is often high demand. Cost: $23-36 for campsites, $51 for yurts.
- Soda Creek Campground is located on Cascade Lake Scenic Byway, just 2.7 miles east of the Devils Lake Trailhead. This rustic USFS campground is open from mid-June to mid-September and has 10 campsites, a vault toilet, but NO potable water. Cost: $20 per campsite/vehicle, plus $10 for each additional vehicles. Reservations can be made online at recreation.gov
- Elk Lake Campground is located on Cascade Lake Scenic Byway, approximately 4.3 miles south of the Devils Lake Trailhead. This developed USFS campground is open from late May to late September and offers 22 campsites, vault toilets, drinking water, picnic tables, fire rings, and a boat ramp. Cost: $29 per campsite/vehicle. Reservations can be made online, but there’s also a handful of sites available on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Resources:
- Highpointing South Sister (Peakbagger)
- Central Cascades Wilderness Permit (required July 15 to October 15)
- Ultimate Guide to South Sister (Climb Tall Peaks)
- Devils Lake Trailhead Parking Info (USFS)
