Are you looking for a new trail to hike this year? Something self-supported where you won’t have to resupply and worry about the risks going into towns? Perhaps a trail you can hike within a week’s duration? Congrats! You’ve stumbled upon the North Umpqua Trail (NUT) in Oregon.

Most people outside the Oregon have never heard of this gem of trail. But with many of the long-distance trail associations asking people to cancel their thru-hiking plans for the 2020 hiking season, we’re seeing shorter, more obscure trails benefit from a little new love and attention. If you’re thinking about adding the NUT to your bucket list of future thru-hikes, here’s 20 things you really should know about the trail before you head out to the trailhead.

UPDATE: Sadly, in early September 2020, the Archie Creek Fire combined with 40 mph winds destroyed 100,000 acres of the Umpqua National Forest in just 24 hours! As a result, the western 1/3 of the NUT was decimated! Trail crews are working on re-building the trail, but it may be many years before hikers can experience a thru-hike on this trail.

#1 – Where is the North Umpqua Trail?

Draw a horizontal line on across the bottom 1/3 of Oregon – somewhere between Roseburg and Mt. Thielsen. This is roughly where the NUT lies on the map. The NUT’s western terminus is in Swiftwater Park – a popular day-use area just east of Glide, Oregon. And, the eastern terminus is located at Maidu Lake, a remote lake up in the Cascade Mountains not far from Chemult, Oregon. There aren’t any airports to get you to this more rural part of Oregon easily. Eugene, Medford, and Bend are all a multi-hour drive away. That’s probably why so few non-Oregonians know about this lovely National Recreation Trail.

#2 – Length of the North Umpqua Trail

The NUT is 79-miles from end to end. This easy-to-navigate trail runs from the headwaters of the North Umpqua River in the Cascades down to the fertile Umpqua Valley – one of the state’s top wine growing regions. The trail generally runs in an east-west direction paralleling the river’s path. However, this isn’t a easy stroll along the banks of a tranquil river. The NUT traverses the Umpqua National Forest, and gradually transitions between 6000′ elevation in the mountains down to 800′ feet elevation in the valley.

#3 – Getting to the eastern end of North Umpqua Trail

While finding the NUT’s western terminus in Swiftwater Park is a breeze, getting out to the eastern terminus is a different story altogether. There aren’t any roads leading to Maidu Lake, which means NUT thru-hikers only have two options to get there.

• Miller Lake Approach Trail. The shortest way to get to Maidu Lake is via a trail from Miller Lake – one of the local lakes to the east of the trail. Miller Lake is readily accessible by car if you’re willing to drive 12 miles down a forest service road (NF-9772) from Chemult, Oregon. This dirt road ends right at the peninsula sticking into Miller Lake and near the Digit Point Trailhead. From that trailhead, its a cinch to follow the Miller Lake Trail for 4.75 miles to Maidu Lake. Just think of those extra 4.75 non-NUT miles as an “approach trail” like the Appalachian Trail’s approach trail from Amicalola Falls. And, if you use this route out to Maidu Lake, you’ll get the bonus of crossing paths with the famed Pacific Crest Trail.

• Kelsay Valley Trailhead. The other option that will get you to the Maidu Lake begins at the Kelsay Valley Trailhead. Kelsay Valley is the final trailhead on the NUT, located about 9 miles west of Maidu Lake. So, utilizing this option means you’ll hike that segment of the NUT as an out-and-back leg in order to tag the eastern terminus. The easiest way out to the the Kelsay Valley Trailhead, means driving out Highway 138 toward Lemolo Lake, then following Cascade Lakes Highway (NF-60) north for 4.5 miles to Windigo Pass Rd (NF-958). This trailhead is co-located with the Kelsay Valley Campground and Horse Camp.

#4 – Best time of year to thru-hike the NUT

Some segments of this trail can be hiked year-round, but if you want to tackle this trail as a thru-hike, you’re best off hiking it between July and September. The eastern end of the the trail is bound to be covered in snow or ice through the entire winter and spring seasons, and then the hordes of mosquitos will emerge shortly after the snow melts.

Oregon is also known as an excessively rainy state, but precipitation between July and September drops to less than 2 inches per month in this region. Compare those metrics to March or April, which can average 20-30 inches of snow near the trail each month! So, waiting to find a nice, dry weather window in later summer and early fall will contribute to a best overall hiking experience.

#5 – What’s the story behind all the trail segments?

The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and National Forest Service (USFS) established 12 trailheads along the length of the North Umpqua Trail. This resulted in 11 separate segments of trail ranging from 3.5 miles to 15.7 miles in length. When pieced together, the segments create the entire NUT. Two of these trail segments are longer than 10 miles in length (the Tioga segment is 15.7 miles long and the Dread & Terror segment is 13 miles). The remaining nine trail segments are between 3.5 and 9.6 miles long. For a complete overview of the trail segments, you can check out the BLM’s North Umpqua Trail brochure HERE.

#6 – How crowded is the North Umpqua Trail?

Compared to other popular trails in the Pacific Northwest, the NUT is a truly tranquil respite from the crowds. The vast majority of the people you’ll encounter are day hikers in search for one of the many waterfalls within a mile of a trailhead. The three busiest areas tend to be the the Hot Springs Trailhead (near the Umpqua Hot Springs), White Mule Trailhead (near Lemolo Falls), and the Wright Creek Trailhead (because it has car camping and a 6-mile mountain biking loop nearby). Otherwise, you can walk for hours without seeing a single soul.

#7 – Stealth Camping on the NUT can be limited

If you’re an experienced thru-hiker, you’re probably used to selecting your own campsite, and you’re willing to set up your tent anywhere that’s semi-level. Unfortunately, flat spaces aren’t in great abundance on this trail. Much of the trail runs along steep hillside slopes, and many of the flatter areas are overgrown with poison oak. That said, there ARE still plenty of evident spots along this trail to camp on. They just not be as abundant as you are used to. If you see a good spot to set up camp toward the end of the day, go ahead an snag it because you may not see another suitable one for 3-4 more miles.

#8 – You won’t need to carry much water

Because this trail parallels the North Umpqua River, you definitely won’t have any long water carries to deal with during your thru-hike. Keep in mind though, while the river is usually within sight, it won’t always be readily accessible. Often you’ll find yourself hiking hundreds of feet above the it, or you might have a super steep drop off between the trail and the river. Nonetheless, water is abundant and plentiful all year round. There are plenty of streams and creeks flowing down toward the river, and you’ll never have to hike more than a few miles without crossing a viable water source. In fact, the only reason I carried more than one liter of water the during my entire thru-hike was because I didn’t want to stop as frequently to have to filter water.

#9 – Don’t expect cell service on trail

The NUT is a remote trail. It runs through the Umpqua National Forest, weaving its way between mountains following the river’s path. So, it’s no big surprise you won’t find cell signal during the vast majority of this trail. In fact, I was only able to reach a cell tower three times during my thru-hike. If you want a more reliable form a communication to let others know where you are on the trail or the ability to reach 911 in an emergency, you’re better off bringing a GPS communicator like a Garmin InReach.

#10 – Expect lots of downed trees and bridges

This NUT runs through forests filled with towering pines, hemlock, firs, and cedar. That’s a heck of a lot of opportunities for giant trees to fall across the trail or destroy bridges. Most of the short segments of trail have trail crews regularly coming in to remove these heavy fallen logs. But, that’s not always true of the longer or more remote sections of the NUT. Be prepared to slow down your pace tremendously during the Dread & Terror segment in particular. I found myself barely able to hike 2 mph for about 10 miles of that stretch whilst climbing over and scrambling under hundreds(!!) of downed trees or making my way safely across several small rock slides.

#11 – Oh, the mosquitos!

The eastern section of the NUT is up in the Cascade Mountains, which get quite a bit of snow during the winter months. As this snow melts, clouds of mosquitos emerge, and you might find yourself pretty uncomfortable for several miles. This aspect of the trail can’t be avoided, but there are some things you can do to minimize the impact. First, choosing a thru-hike date in later in the season will minimize the prevalence of these pests. Mosquitos thrive during the warmer months, but tend to become less active when the temperatures drop in the fall. Second, bring a head net to cover yourself and combine that effort with a liberal dose of insect repellent. Then, just keep on moving. Once you’re west of Lemolo Falls you’ll likely be out of their radius.

#12 – This is a forest trail not a vista trail

One of the reasons I love hiking on the West Coast is because you get so many sweeping views from the mountains. I love looking out for miles upon miles when I get up to a summit. If that’s what you love too, then be prepared to adjust your expectations. The NUT is not one of those trails. There are some great views along the way, but the majority of the trail is under tall forests with lots of foliage. It’s very much a the type of hike where you’ll feel like you’re in the “green tunnel” most of the time.

#13 – Get Ready for Some Water!

While the NUT may not have wide panoramic views, its spectacular waterfalls, lakes, and natural hot springs definitely make up for it. You are bound to pass interesting spots like this several times each day on the NUT. Some of my favorite sights included Lemolo Falls (a 102-foot tall horse-tail waterfall) and Columnar Falls (a unique waterfall that shoots down flat, mossy rock crevices). Another one of the popular spots is the Umpqua Hot Springs, which is just down a short 0.3-mile side trail. This series of milky blue pools reach 108°F, and provides visitors with elevated views of the North Umpqua River running below them. And, of course, there’s the river itself – which is constantly transitioning between whitewater rapids and crystal clear water. The NUT even passes chinook spawning beds at Weeping Rocks, where adult salmon swim upstream from the Pacific Ocean to lay their eggs from September to November each year.

#14 – Volcanic activity

The Cascade Mountains are a volcanic range that have been erupting for millions of years. So it’s not that surprising to see evidence of lava along the this thru-hike. Severals segments of the NUT will reveal basalt rocks, and the Umpqua Hot Springs is continuing proof of the geothermal activity in the area. However, nothing is quite as spectacular of a sight as the Columnar Basalt near the Soda Springs Trailhead. These vertical columns were formed from molten lava that seemed to end in a cubist pattern. Bright green and orange lichen color the wall, while the river flows below it creating a hypnotic pattern that you can seemingly gaze at forever. This remote spot is one of the true highlights of the NUT, in my opinion.

#15 – The NUT is a multi-use trail

Like most National Recreation Trails, the NUT is open to hikers, mountain bikes, and horses. However, there are several areas that are limited just to hiking due to the width of the trail or obstacles along the way. To prepare you for other prospective users on the trail, it’s worth knowing what areas are most popular. Generally, the equestrian use ares lie east of Lemolo Lake. Meanwhile, the segments of the NUT that appeal to mountain bikers are on the western end of the trail, especially the area round the Wright Creek Trailhead- where the Tioga and Mott Segments meet. And, of course, the trail is closed to all motorized equipment all year round.

#16 – Navigation on the NUT

There is no Guthook App for the NUT. Nor are there any blazes marking the way on the trail. The only dedicated map set you can buy is from the USDA, and it’s just a general Umpqua National Forest map that isn’t particularly useful. In fact, the best resource you’ll have for navigation on this trail is the .pdf version of the BLM’s North Umpqua Trail brochure. I’d recommend you download it from their website and save to your smartphone as a quick reference guide during your hike.

Despite the lack of detailed navigation resources for the NUT, don’t worry. It’s almost impossible to get turned around or lost. There’s really only one trail to follow the majority of the time, and any place the NUT crosses another trail, you can depend on a well-marked sign directing you were to go. The only moderately tricky spots are the trailheads, because the trail may turn and cross the highway or a bridge a few hundred yards away before it resumes again. That’s when your downloaded copy of the BLM’s trail brochure is a real benefit.

#17 – Poison Oak

Poison Oak is a prevalent nuisance in western Oregon, and can be found as both a bush and a climbing vine. These plants don’t show up until you’re below 4,000′ elevation though, and you’re not likely to encounter it until you’re hiking between Toketee Lake and the NUT’s western terminus. Poison Oak typically has vibrant red leaves in the early spring and late fall, but the leaves are deep green all summer. If you want to avoid the itchy rash that is bound to occur if you touch the oils of the leaves, consider wearing long pants or gaiters on your legs while hiking. Also, avoid walking cross-country through low brush when searching for a camping spot or place or a good place to dig a cat hole.

#18 – The Calf Segment is open

In September 1987, lightening started a fire near Apple Creek and it turned out to be extremely difficult to extinguish due to 100-degree temperatures, a massive drought, and inaccessible terrain. The Apple Fire destroyed three miles of the NUT and much of the wooded landscape surrounding it.

Adding insult to injury, a second massive man-made fire devastated this same section of the trail in 2002, burning over 17,000 acres of the forest. As a result, the Calf Segment of the NUT was closed for many years due to unsafe trail conditions, fallen trees, and landslides. The BLM’s trail brochure still claims this 3.7-mile section of the NUT is closed to all users until further notice. However, this information is no longer accurate. The trail has been rebuilt and cleared of debris and is now safe to use once again. So, don’t fret, you won’t have to roadwalk past this section.

UPDATE: Sadly, in early September 2020, the Archie Creek Fire destroyed 130,000 acres along the North Umpqua River. The western 1/3 of the NUT (including the Calf Segment) was decimated and is now closed! Trail crews are working on re-building the trail, but it will be many years before hikers can experience a thru-hike on this trail.

#19 – Beware of Conflicting Mileage Signs for Jessie Wright

The Jessie Wright Segment is named after the infamous female homesteader who lived here in the early 20th century. I was excited to hike this segment knowing it was named after a woman who was genuine bad ass (click HERE to see what I mean) instead of her husband, Perry. But, then I arrived at the trailhead and I was immediately perplexed.

The NUT trail brochure lists the length of this segment as 4.1 miles long, but the giant kiosk sign at the Soad Springs Trailhead claims it’s 5.1 miles. (Note: The kiosk is also only 10 feet away from a wooden trail sign that says it’s really 4 miles!!).

As I began hiking the segment, I encountered yet another sign that seemed to indicate that the segment was 4.1-miles, and so I figured the kiosk simply had a typo on it. But then, not a half-mile later, I encountered another conflicting sign at the Bradley Trail junction claiming the segment’s length was 5 miles. What the heck?!?

Perhaps this discord can be chalked up to two guys at the local BLM office in a bitter feud over the details, and each one is making their own signs. But, this isn’t like trying to guess your spouse’s dress size. You’re not taking a stab in the dark and hoping for the best. It’s an objective fact that would take less than two hours to verify. Let me settle it once and for all, guys. The segment is 4.28 miles long.

#20 – Pit toilets are plentiful on the NUT

Have to dig a cat hole to take care of your business if just one of the facts of any backcountry thru-hike. However, that may not be 100% true on the NUT. I encountered a total of 7 pit toilets at the various trailheads along the NUT, plus another flush toilet bathroom at the Digit Point Trailhead at Miller Lake. With the exception of the one abysmal pit toilet at Umpqua Hot Springs (which gets a lot of day-use visitors instead of hikers) all of these these pit toilets were super clean and stocked with TP! Some of them were even built out to look like little impressive timber frame cabins! Not a bad perk for a thru-hike.

Final Thoughts

Here’s hoping these 20 nuggets provided you a little more knowledge about this fascinating trail. If you want to know more about my own North Umpqua Trail journey in July 2020, check out the following links:

• Day-by-day Trail Journal for My NUT Thru-hike
• My Complete Packing List for the NUT
• My North Umpqua Thru-hike… By the Numbers