Amid all the chaos in the US, I’ve decided I need to escape. I cannot watch the news for one more day. I cannot continue sit here as an unelected tech billionaire systematically dismantles our democratic institutions. Nor accept the hostility being aimed toward women and minorities. The harm this administration is causing to its citizens, our public lands, and the rule of law is very real to me.
Over the past few weeks, I’ve attended nonviolent protests at my state capitol, contacted members of Congress, followed the daily drops in our stock market, and urged my fellow citizens to wake up to the danger. Yet this chaotic mayhem continues, and I feel helpless to staunch the hemorrhaging.
I am mentally exhausted and need a break to recharge. So, I am turning to the one thing I know that brings me joy and serenity. I am escaping to nature. I’m packing my bag and heading to the outdoors for the next 30 days.
As I contemplated where to go during this time, my mind naturally returned to Spain. Over the past six years, I’ve walked three of the Camino routes: the Camino Francés (in 2018), the Camino del Norte (in 2022), and the Camino Portugués (in 2024). Each one was magnificent. And each one gave me clarity when I needed it.
I’d love to tackle even more Camino routes in the future, but April isn’t a great month to hike in Galicia. It’s cool and rainy, and my experience walking the Camino Portugués coastal route in late April last year included seven straight days of rain.
So, I searched for another springtime walking adventure that might tick more of my boxes. Where could I get a relatively warm and dry hike on an established trail network in April? As I scoured my options, the Via Francigena was the trek that percolated to the top of my list.
the Via Francigena
Few North Americans have heard of the Via Francigena, a 2,000-kilometer medieval pilgrimage route that begins in Canterbury, England, and ends in Rome, Italy. This trail takes hikers south to the English cliffs, across the Strait of Dover, through eastern France, over the Alps in Switzerland, and down through Italy.
I won’t be walking the entire 2,000 kilometers of Via Francigena during this springtime adventure. England and France are just as rainy and cold in April as the Camino routes in northern Spain. Plus, the route over the Alps is still covered in snow until July.
However, the final 400 kilometers of this historic pilgrimage route is among the Via Francigena’s most scenic and popular miles. Additionally, this section is ideal in the springtime, when the Tuscan days are generally sunny and mild.
Deciding on a trail that worked with my timeline was only half the battle. As I planned this upcoming trek on the Via Francigena, I discovered several new challenges I’d need to overcome, including:
- Language Barriers. Although I will be trekking through towns that attract international visitors each year, I don’t expect to find many locals who are fluent in English. Thus, I am actively cramming Italian words into my vocabulary. I suspect Google Translate will need to do far more heavy lifting on this trek than it does for me in Spain (where I understand more of the language).
- Cultural Challenges. Having never hiked in Italy, I am unfamiliar with many of the country’s cultural nuances. What time do they eat their meals? What are the daily hours (and closures) for shops and grocery stores? Can you hike on Sundays, or is everything closed? Will I be able to find vegetarian-friendly meals? And why don’t Italians serve cappuccino after 11 am? There is much to learn.
- Lodging Uncertainty. The Via Francigena doesn’t have a robust network of pilgrims’ hostels like the Camino, so I’m uncertain how much planning I’ll need to do to find a place to stay each night. How busy is this route during the springtime? Will I need to book ahead? Do the pilgrims’ hostels take reservations? Can I rely on hostels, or should I opt for private lodging?
- Navigation Woes. Finding one’s way on the Camino is pretty straightforward. The routes are generally well-marked with yellow arrows and scallop shells, and fellow pilgrims are everywhere to help. Plus, there are apps to help navigate from town to town. However, the Via Francigena is a less-traveled trek, and I worry I might get lost as I make my way to Rome alone.
- Easter. My upcoming trip overlaps with the Easter holiday, which falls on April 20th this year. Because Italy is a predominately Catholic country (78% of Italians identify as Catholic), I suspect many amenities I need to rely upon (e.g., restaurants, grocery shops, and hotels) could close over that holiday weekend. That could seriously disrupt my progress and timeline.
- Jubilee. In addition to the Easter holiday, I also have to account for Italy being busier than normal because 2025 has been designated a Jubilee Year (holy year) for the Catholic church. As many as 20 million visitors are expected to head to Rome throughout the year, which might make my trip’s tail end logistically hectic.
- Anti-American Sentiment. I know from my previous visits to Italy (more than a decade ago) that the Italian people are overwhelmingly warm and welcoming. However, over the past two months, the American government has seemed to go out of its way to offend our European allies and strain these once-cordial relationships. This new tension could make it more difficult for ordinary Americans—like me—to travel.
Final Thoughts
As I prepare for this upcoming adventure on the Via Francigena, I know my work is cut out for me. Wandering into anything new is scary. But then again, so is staying home and worrying about what will happen next in America.
Here’s hoping this adventure brings some much-needed serenity and space. Stay tuned as I post my daily itinerary, gear list, and daily journal along with photos from the magnificent Italian countryside.