September 21, 2018
- Route: Hospital de Orbigo to Rabinal del Camino
- Distance: 36.6 kilometers (22.69 miles)
I’ve been getting up at the same time each morning out here, but the days are definitely getting shorter. I even found myself making my way out of Hospital de Obrigo this morning by the light of the street lamps. It was a good feeling though, and I enjoyed the early morning calm as the sun peeked over the horizon.
As I turned around to look back at it, I was able to capture some spectacular sunrise photos of the church bell towers in the distance. Talk about a great start to my day! It’s moments like these that make me so happy that I’m out here walking the Camino instead of sitting behind a desk trying to manage the never ending chaos that was my former job.
Not long after the sun emerged, I encountered yet another fork in the Camino. One side of the divide went toward a “road route,” while the other option was the “walker’s route.” I enjoyed the less-trafficked path yesterday, so I opted for the walker’s route once again. As luck would have it, this 14.2-kilometer detour was not only more scenic, but it also had the bulk of the towns along it too.
Second breakfast
A few kilometers after the divide, I found a nice little cafe to stop at for my morning café con leche. This is a new part of my routine. When I began this hike, I was all business. I’d usually stock up items for breakfast or lunch items at a small local store the night before, and then eat my goodies along the route whenever I felt hungry.
I don’t need to use my backcountry resupply methods out here. Food is more than plentiful. But, old habits are hard to break. In trying to adjust to the Camino, I’m trying to shift my mindset toward enjoying the luxuries of frequent town stops. After all, why not take advantage of the little bars and cafes along the way?
This is how I’ve come the perfect the “second breakfast” routine. Even if I eat something at the albergue before I depart in the morning, I’m always ready to stop for to at least enjoy warm coffee and some toast or pastry a few hours into my morning. I can regularly find somewhere to grab a quick bite for 2-3 Euros while I rest my feet. So perhaps it’s worth slowing down and enjoy myself a bit.
Modern Day Pilgrims
The walker’s route took me up into some rolling hills this morning then back down into Astorga. This city is a seminal point on the route because it marks the end of the meseta. I’m not sure what the Camino will look like between here and Santiago, but at least it should be something different the flat, dry region that I’ve been walking through recently.
Returning to the urban environment around Astorga meant lots more sidewalks (instead of trails), but there were two noteworthy sights along the route.
The first was the awesome bronze statue of a modern day pilgrim. Most the art depicting pilgrims along the Camino tends to focus on medieval travelers. And while this is certainly interesting, it’s uplifting to see an artist commissioned to depict someone who resembles the pilgrims who are out here walking the Camino today.
A second interesting sight was the elaborate bridge system I had to use to cross the high-speed rail lines just outside Astorga. This engineering exploit is essentially a series of metal ramps taking pilgrims three stories up in the air so they could bypass the perils of brought by those super fast-moving commuter trains. But, it was another reminder that I’m on a far different journey out here than those who walked the Camino before me.
So close…and yet so far
Once in Astorga, I saw a street sign reminding me it’s only 265 kilometers (164 miles) from here to Santiago. I could literally be there in three hours by car or train. Yet it’s humbling to think about how many more DAYS (or even weeks) pilgrims will need to be out here to walk that same distance. At least my slower approach will allow me to appreciate the little details I’d undoubtedly miss if I was experiencing it any other way.
The route departing Astorga was on a slight, but constant, uphill slope for the remainder of the day. There was a bit of road walking and then a sandy, dirt path beside the main road. I finally worked my way up into the hills though and my spirits soared.
The afternoon’s biggest highlight was the town of Santa Catalina de Somoza. This is the only town on the Camino Francés named after a female saint. The town lies atop a small hill and didn’t have any stores or cafes, but there was a lovely bench beneath a large tree that seemed to be the perfect stop for my afternoon lunch break.
A little R&R
After lunch, the Camino continued to climb slowly upward for the rest of the afternoon, and I decided to call it quits in Rabanal del Camino. The village seemed to beckon me to stop with its more bohemian fee. There were groups of pilgrims sitting outside chatting while a nearby guitarist strummed soft melodies. And then as I rounded the corner, I looked over toward a grassy knoll under some large trees and spotted two massage therapists tending to pilgrims at they lay on massages tables set up in the open air.
Oh what a sublime idea. How could I possibly keep walking? A massage to work on the weary muscles in my legs and back was just too much decadence to bypass. So, I quickly added my name to the waiting list and checked into the closest albergue so I could take a quick shower before my massage. Ah sweet bliss!
