September 14, 2018
- Route: Agés to Burgos
- Distance: 22 kilometers (13.64 miles)
Today was my shortest day walking on the Camino. I decided after more than a week of pushing myself to walk 30-35 kilometers each day, my body could use a little rest. The plantar fasciitis in my right foot has been acting up for the past few days, and I knew I needed to dial it back a little to prevent an injury.
Of course, just because I didn’t walk that far on the Camino didn’t mean it was a rest day. Today’s leg of my adventure included a visit to the city of Burgos. So, I’m pretty sure that I easily walked 5-10 extra kilometers just wandering around the town and checking out the sights.
I really wanted to spend a little extra time exploring a handful of the bigger cities I’d pass through on the Camino – namely Pamplona, Burgos, and Leon. And to make those locations just a little bit more pleasant, I decided I’d spring for a comfortable night in a hotel instead of being cramped in an albergue in these towns.
To get started on the right foot, I got up early this morning and went to the cafe in Agés. It was the perfect spot to grab a quick cafe con leche and chocolate croissant (and avail myself of their free wifi…of course!). Breakfast allowed me plenty of time to search through the hotel options in Burgos to find somewhere close to the city center at a reasonable price. With my hotel room reserved, and a nice buzz settling in from my coffee, it was time to set out for Burgos.
Lots to see along the way
As I looked through my app this morning to preview the route into Burgos, I noticed there were a a handful of interesting sights on this short leg of my journey.
The first stop was the town of Atapuerca. The earliest human beings in Europe left behind fossil records in the nearby limestone caves, and this 800,000-year old archeological site is now a Unesco World Heritage site. Although I didn’t get the opportunity to explore the museum because of how early I arrived, I did get to explore some of the static outdoor displays about the important discoveries here.
The next stop on the way to Burgos was Cruz de Atapuerca, a small park at the top of a moderately tall foothill in the Atapeurca range. The park’s highlight is a giant wooden cross built in an opening of the pine forest. There was a rock pile at the base of the cross where some of the religious pilgrims placed their own small stone or written prayers. Other visitors quietly relaxed in the shade, eating a late breakfast or just enjoying the solitude.
The riverwalk
After departing the park, the rest of the journey into Burgos was downhill or flat. The route took me past the long, dusty road along edge of the local airport. This less-than-scenic walk reminded me, once again, that the Camino is not aways a nature experience like other long distance trails.
Before too long though, the path forked two separate directions on its way into Burgos. The more direct route hugged a major highway all the way into the city. This option held absolutely no appeal for me. Especially after several kilometers of walking beside the airport perimeter of chainlink fencing.
The second option is often referred to as the “river walk,” and follows the Rio Arlanzón instead. Though the river path was slightly longer in distance, it promised to follow a far more picturesque route into town. It seemed like a no-brainer which route I’d choose. What’s a few extra kilometers, right?
In the end, I was really glad I opted for the river walk. It was covered with nice shade trees the entire way. There were colorful murals painted on some of the concrete bridge abutments, as well as lots of waterfowl and wildlife in the river. The walk itself was extremely pleasant too. I found myself on wide jogging paths enjoying the morning beside families out for a walk, runners, and even a few equestrians.
I was slightly concerned I might miss the turn into Burgos. There are about a foot dozen bridges crossing the river leading into the city, and I wasn’t 100% sure which one I previewed this morning. The map view on my Camino app only works when I have wifi, and I didn’t have any in the park. As it turns out I didn’t need to worry. There were plenty of signs directing people to the sights – and even a few maps in kiosks near the city center.
Exploring Burgos
Burgos was all that I’d hoped it would be an more. The city is the capital of the province and filled with intricate gothic architecture, museums, statues, and wide promenades designed for walkers to explore the sights.
After checking into my hotel and grabbing a late lunch, my first stop was the infamous Burgos Cathedral. This striking art piece was built between 1221 and 1567, and it’s a comprehensive example of the evolution of Gothic architecture over that period. Its giant lantern spires stretch to the sky, and the structure is so immense that each angle reveals new, ornate details to capture your attention.
Next on my list was the Arco de Santa Maria – an elaborate facade and archway leading into the city. In the 12th century, a wall surrounded the city, with 12 doors leading in and out. The original door was relatively plain, but it was rebuilt in the 16th century at the direction of Charles V (the Holy Roman Emperor at the time). On the outside of the arch lies a long pedestrian park lined with trees, cafes, and views of the river. Modern buildings now flank either side of the archway, but the castle-like facade is still incredibly impressive.
I spent the remainder of the afternoon just wandering around, looking at statues and buildings, and just soaking in the experience. Like most places in Spain, the afternoon was quiet while the locals took their siesta. With the streets to myself, and the city had that same feeling like when you get up and go for a run in the early morning before everyone else has woken.
The downside to this long mid-afternoon break is that many of the restaurants in Spain don’t open up until 8 or 9pm. Sure, there were a handful of touristy places serving food earlier – but I didn’t want to eat in one of those mediocre establishments. I wanted to experience Spain. And so, I waited until 8:30 before heading out, and promptly found a restaurant with an outdoor patio to enjoy the warm evening air.
As my wine came, two women seated nearby began talking to me in English. They recognized me from Agés yesterday and were both pilgrims on the Camino. After attempting to carry on a conversation between our tables for several minutes, I decided to join them at their table. Both women were my age. They were from the Netherlands and had known each other for close to 20 years. We shared stories about our lives back home, why were were walking the Camino, and then spent the next two hours eating, drinking wine, and talking about everything under the sun. It was my most enjoyable evening in Spain yet! I’m so glad I decided to relax and enjoy Burgos!