Fall on the Camino de Santiago can pose some difficult packing challenges. Will it be hot? Will it be cold? Should I expect rain or sunshine?
If you’re thinking about heading out on the Camino de Santiago in autumn, this post covers all the major questions you should consider when developing your gear packing list. Or you can skip ahead to see the complete list everything I carried on the Camino Frances HERE.
Question 1: What CLothing should I pack for the autumn weather?
Deciding what to wear on the Camino was my biggest dilemma. My angst was largely over the fact that I expected to go out to eat at restaurants and/or visit some of the bigger cities I was traveling through.
I wanted to strike a balance between comfortable hiking gear and decent-looking apparel when I was in tourist mode. This was Europe after all. I wasn’t going to be on a wilderness trail. I’d be going through major cities like Pamplona, Burgos, and Leon. So I didn’t want to look like my normal hikertrashy self.
After reading lots of forums, I was somewhat unsure what temperatures to expect in the shoulder season too. Here’s what I eventual settled in the categories of bottom layers, top layers, undergarments, and footwear.
Bottom layers
Although I didn’t want to overpack, I really wanted to cover all my bases with the weather. As a result, I ended up packing a total of four bottom layers:
- khaki hiking shorts for hiking on warm days
- athletic capris for hiking of colder days
- running shorts for sleeping
- lightweight pants for the evenings and sightseeing
I hiked in my khaki shorts or capris most of the time, and saved my pants as something clean to wear at the end of the day in town. And although I brought my running shorts primarily to sleep in, I’ll admit I did temporarily switch to hiking in them on the hottest days on the meseta.
The big lesson here is make sure everything you bring can do double-duty as hiking or casual wear, because it may be hotter (or colder) than you expect in autumn.
Top layers
Surprisingly, my top layers were slightly easier to plan than my bottom layers. I went with technical running shirts, and all of my shirts were fairly plain looking so they could be worn in town. I ended up bringing:
- Two technical t-shirts for hiking
- One tank top for sleeping
- A long sleeve button-up shirt to wear on my evenings in town
This combination made me look presentable no matter where I traveled. And you can always add a scarf to dress things up in town!
I also packed a long sleeve merino wool shirt that could be used as a layer on colder mornings or evenings. In hindsight, this long sleeve shirt was unnecessary, since I used my rain jacket as a layer on those cool mornings instead. Nonetheless, if you’re planning to hike into October or later, you should definitely consider adding a long sleeve hiking shirt to your autumn packing list. I’d recommend packing it in lieu of of the tank top I took.
Undergarments
Most women on the Camino seemed to wear sports bras on the Camino. This solution provides you with good support while hiking. And they are equally comfortable for relaxing in the albergue afterwards or sleeping in.
If you’re trying to decide which type of bra to pack, I’m a big fan of Patagonia’s “Barely” bra and underwear line. They are lightweight, wicking, and dry very quickly. You’ll be fine with just 2 bras and 3-4 sets of underwear on the Camino, since there are opportunities to wash them every day or two.
Footwear
Keeping your feet dry and eliminating friction is half the battle. You need to figure out what socks work for before heading out on your Camino (hint: it’s rarely cotton). And make sure to pack enough socks to allow you to change them during the day, as needed. I took a total of three pairs of socks and always gave the bottoms of my feet a good layer of body glide in the mornings before I started walking.
If you are prone to blisters between your toes like me, consider trying Injinji socks. These are those funky socks with separate toes. Yes, they may look or feel odd at first, but they definitely help with eliminating friction. The majority of the time I walked in one of my two pairs of Injinji socks, but I also brought along a pair of Smartwool running socks too.
Question 2: Will I need a sleeping bag?
If you’re on the Camino in September, the evenings won’t get too cold. Many albergues have sheets and blankets provided, so you might not need anything at all. However, there were at least two albergues where I stayed that required pilgrims to use a sleeping bag of some sort because they didn’t provide sheets or a mattress liner.
I chose to bring my Army poncho liner on the Camino instead of a sleeping bag, and that worked out perfectly. It was lighter than a sleeping bag and took up less room in my pack. This item isn’t a piece of gear most people own, but a similar option is a sleeping bag liner available at outdoor stores like REI.
As you get into October or November, an ultra lightweight sleeping setup isn’t as likely to meet your needs. You should definitely lean toward a sleeping bag during those months to ensure you stay warm and get a good night’s sleep.
QUESTION 3: What special gear should I pack for the autumn weather?
Regardless of when you choose to hike the Camino, you need to anticipate rainy or cold weather. When I arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port on September 5th, it was raining cats and dogs when I got off the train! While waiting to purchase my credencial at the Pilgrim’s Office amid a room of soaking wet strangers, I began to wonder if I was sufficiently prepared for autumn in Europe.
In anticipation of potentially bad weather I packed:
- An ultra lightweight rain jacket and rain pants for the rain
- My puffy jacket for cold weather
- A beanie hat and lightweight running gloves
- A hat with a brim for hot days
- An ultralight umbrella for the blisteringly hot or super wet days
As it turns out I probably over prepared for the weather. I only had two days of rain during the 26 days I walked the Camino. I never even had to pull my rain pants out of my pack. But I’m still glad I had them – just in case.
I didn’t use my puffy jacket or beanie hat because the temperatures never dropped that low. The weather was definitely starting to turn colder at the end of my Camino though. So, if you plan on being on the Camino into October or later, I’d still encourage you to bring a warm coat/hat.
Brimmed Hat. I wore my hat probably 80% of the Camino. You’ll definitely want to bring one too, since the sun would beat down intensely in the afternoons. This is especially true through the meseta and the wine regions, where there is precious little shade.
Rain Jacket. I brought an ultralight rain jacket, which I wore as a layer over my t-shirt many mornings before it warmed up. I’m especially glad my jacket had zippers under the armpits. This allowed me to get extra air so I didn’t overheat or get sweaty in it before I was ready to take it off.
Gloves. I’m super grateful I brought gloves. Toward the end of my Camino I’d wear them until 10-11 in the morning to keep my fingers warm. In hindsight, the one thing I probably should have added for an autumn hike was a pair of cheap latex gloves to go over them. If we’d gotten rain on any of those chilly mornings, my gloves would have been soaked and useless.
Final Thoughts
Overall, I’m happy with my decision to hike the Camino in the autumn and would recommend the season. It’s a little bit of a gamble to walk during the shoulder season when you have to prepare for summer heat, rain, wind, cold, or possibly even snow. Nonetheless, there are some terrific benefits in autumn:
- The grape vineyards are at peak beauty before the harvest in late September
- The sunrises in the mornings give a gorgeous golden glow over the harvested fields
- The weather really is ideal most of the time
- Most businesses and albergues are still open for the season The Camino towns are often quieter because most Europeans vacation in August, not autumn
Grapevines full before the harvest