- Arizona County HP: #2
- Difficulty: ⭐️⭐️⭐️ (on a scale of 4)
- Summit Elevation: 5,681 feet
- Mountain Range: Harquahala Mountains
- Ancestral Lands: Cocopah, O’odham Jewed, Upper Pima, Yavapai Apache
PLANNING DETAILS
Location: Harquahala Mountain is located within the Harquahala Mountain Wilderness approximately 50 miles northeast of Quartzite, AZ.
When to Visit: Year-round. The Harquahala Mountains are the highest range in southwestern Arizona, however, but there is rarely any snow covering the CoHP because of its moderate elevation. The bigger risk is the summer heat on this very exposed terrain, so October to April is the best season to visit.
Fees/Permits Required: None.
Getting There: The hiking trail to the summit is accessible from US-60 on the peak’s northern side.
Directions from Quartzite: Head east on I-10 and take exit 31 (US-60/Wickenburg). Continue on US-60 east for approximately 39 miles. Turn off the paved road between milepost 70 & 71. Near your turn, there will be a wide chainlink fence gate with a BLM sign – Harquahala Basecamp sitting on the south side of US-60. After driving through the gate (which is usually closed, but unlocked), head south on FR 9332 (a dirt/sand road) for 2.3 miles until you reach the Harquahala Trailhead.
Directions from Phoenix: Head north on I-17 to exit 223B (US-74/W Carefree Hwy). Follow US-74 west for 30 miles until you reach US-60. Turn right onto US-60 and drive north for another 50 mies. Turn off the paved highway between milepost 70 & 71 at the Harquahala Basecamp sign on the south side of the road. After going through the gate, drive south on FR 9332 for 2.3 miles until you reach the Harquahala Trailhead.
Parking: The Harquahala Trailhead has a dirt parking area with room for approximately 10 cars. A second overflow parking area for horse trailers is located 0.4 miles before the main parking area. There is a pit toilet at the trailhead, but no potable water or trash.
Pets Allowed: Yes.
Kid Friendly: Due to the length and physical challenge of this trail, this trail is best for children age 12 or older.
The Summit: Harquahala Mountain’s summit is occupied by several outbuildings. One of these structures is a two-story adobe building covered with corrugated metal, which was built by Smithsonian Institute and used as an observatory from 1920-25. Several benches and picnic table, along with a trail register sit near the observatory. The geodetic survey monument is embedded in outcropping of rocks, and is readily visible.
Trip Summary
Date Visited: February 11, 2024
Route Used: Harquahala Pack Trail – 9.8 miles round-trip
My winter visit to Harquahala Mountain came right on the heels of a major storm that dumped a few feet of snow on Arizona’s higher peaks. This adverse weather wasn’t a major impediment though, because Harquahala Mountain’s summit (at 5,681 feet) is the second lowest of state’s 15 CoHPs and wasn’t snow-capped.
I left my hotel on the California-Arizona border at daybreak and was treated to lovely sunrise views as I traveled east toward the La Paz county high point.
Getting to the trailhead was very straightforward. The route heads up I-10 and US-60, so I was on pavement almost the entire way to my destination. I also knew to keep an eye out for my turn off from US-60 between MP 70 & MP 71. And sure enough, a brightly-colored BLM sign greeted me on the south side of the highway.
After driving into through the gate and making sure it was securely closed behind me, Harquahala Mountain loomed over me in the distance – providing me with a preview of the journey yet to come. However, I still had a make my way down FR 9332 to get to the actual trailhead.
I regularly drive down forest roads back home in Oregon, so following the brown USFS or BLM road markers wasn’t a novel experience. But I’m accustomed to my forest roads in the PNW being made of dirt, mud, or rocks. This desert approach was different. It was mostly composed of soft dirt, sand, with some prickly brush beside the route. Consequently, I took it much slower than strictly necessary in my rental SUV, and I was glad I only encountered one soft wash that gave me a pause.
After about 10 minutes on the desert road, I reached some pipe corrals with horse trailer parking with a sign that informed me that I still had 0.4 miles left to go. And when I eventually arrived at the Harquahala Mountain Trailhead, I was shocked at how developed it seemed to be!
There was a nice parking area with a concrete sidewalk leading to a vault toilet, and plenty of tall colorful signs telling me about the wilderness area and upcoming hike. There was even a trail register for visitors to sign about 100 yards up the trail.
The elevation profile for the Pack Trail was posted on the sign, and the graphic depiction appeared fairly daunting. I’d parked at 2,318 feet elevation and would need to ascend 3,300 vertical feet in just 4.4 miles.
It was still chilly in the early morning – about 40°F and breezy – so I started out on the Harquahala Pack Trail wearing a puffy, gloves, and an headband covering my cold ears. But those layers didn’t stay put for long. Between the effort from the constant climb and the sun that soon rose overhead, this winter day was warming up nicely.
After 30 minutes of steady climbing, I already had fantastic views of the desert to my north. Tall saguaro cactus lined the hillsides and many of them had more arms than I could count. It’s quite the impressive achievement, given that it takes these cactus 50-100 years for them just to grow their first arm.
About an hour into my hike, my calves were feeling the burn of the sustained effort. I could hear water running down rocks in a canyon below me and I could now see patches of irrigated land off in the distance toward the towns of Wenden and Salome. The vibrant green squares set against the sandy backdrop of the desert was eye-catching as I followed the trail further and further uphill.
Even though it was a weekend, there wasn’t another soul at the trailhead this morning. I seemed to have the mountain 100% to myself today and the quiet out here was like nothing else one experiences in our modern day world of seemingly constant noise.
A little more than an hour into my hike, a metal pipe roughly the diameter of a garden hose crossed over the trail. Then it seemed to run alongside it the trail for a solid quarter-mile as I switchbacked higher and higher. I was curious about where it went and why it was out here. Was this a water pipe for the summit?
I was still pondering this question when I came across my first bit of snow around 4,400 feet elevation. It didn’t obscure the trail, but it was clear evidence of the recent storm that had just come through. After flooding parts of California, then system shut down entire parts of I-40 and I-17 here. But a week later, all that remained here in southwest Arizona was some patchy snow.
About a mile below the summit, I passed an informational sign and the remains of an old gold and silver prospecting camp from the early 20th century. Unfortunately for the miners, the Harquahala Mountains didn’t provide much wealth and it was abandoned after just a few years’ time.
I finally made it up to the saddle around 5,100 feet (near mile 4.2) and I could now see south of the mountain range first time all morning. Below me, a 10-mile long OHV road (aka Harquahala Mountain Backcountry Byway) wound itself up the back side of the peak, but even that route was quiet today.
Above me, I could now also make out the outline of a metal structure – which would turn out to be the old Harquahala Observatory, which was built by the Smithsonian Institute in the 1920s. The structure is actually a solid-wall adobe building, but it’s clad in corrugated metal for some reason now – making it look like a ramshackle shed of no importance.
My energy was beginning to flag during this last push uphill. The trail was still rising at the same consistent grade and I could feel the impact a winter spent indoors had on my overall fitness. Nonetheless, seeing the outline of those buildings atop the summit motivated me to keep moving. I’d be up there soon enough, and I could stop for lunch and refuel once I got there.
Barely 0.1 miles before the summit, the trail faded away to almost nothing. I’d come to a junction with a dirt road leading to a nearby peak, and there was a red metal fence with a sign directing riders to leave their horses there.
I wasn’t sure whether to follow the muddy road up to the summit, or continue on the trail that was barely visible through the cactus and patchy snow. But I supposed it didn’t matter. I just needed to keep going up by whatever means available.
Within minutes, I was picking my way up to an ugly building with a radio tower. The structures were surrounded by chainlink fence and what appeared to be 100 solar panels soaking up the sunshine on its south side. I was nearly to the summit now.
Up ahead, I could see a rocky outcropping that appeared to be the mountain’s highest point. And sure enough, a bronze survey monument was embedded in the rocks. I’d made it to the summit!
I was now more than a mile above sea level and standing on the highest peak in La Paz County, AZ. It was a bluebird day, and the views from Harquahala Mountain were just unreal. I was certain I could see for at least 50 miles in every direction.
About 100 yard further to my south, the metal-covered observatory building and some picnic tables beckoned me. It was time for lunch and I needed to break out my jacket. The summit was noticeable cooler once I stopped moving, and there was a steady breeze giving me a chill despite the bright sun overhead.
After a half hour of relaxation while I ate and took in the views, I decided it was time to head back. I had this mountain all to myself long enough, and I was hoping to drive north toward Kingman, AZ this afternoon so I could attempt Haulapai Peak (Mohave County’s HP) tomorrow.
As I started back down toward the trailhead, I’m glad I took note of the red pipe fencing on my way up. Without any trail markers near the summit, that notable landmark became my navigation marker to make sure I didn’t head the wrong way down the mountain.
The views heading back north were lovely, and when crossed over the saddle again, I mentally noted how consistently steep the trail seemed to be. My slow ascent hadn’t just been due to my fitness level, this trail really had a steady grade on it and my knees would be feeling it tomorrow.
Less than a mile further down the trail, I spotted something colorful moving ahead of me. It turns out I wasn’t the only one out here after all. A guy wearing a bright red running vest had a GoPro camera strapped to his head and he was jogging up the trail toward me. Clearly he was in better shape than me if he was running this trail (Note: I’d later watch his video and learn that he spent more hiking uphill than trail running because even he admitted it was pretty solid uphill grade).
It took me a solid 2.5 hours to hike to the summit, but only 1.5 hours to get back down to my car at the trailhead, and I had to admit this peak was a great start to my mid-winter break in Arizona.
Unfortunately, my drive north to Kingman later that afternoon would reveal how much snow the rest of the state was still dealing with. I would not be summiting Hualapai Peak during this winter trip. The county park for that trailhead was still waiting for the road to be plowed and to have power restored.
But at least I’d start my Arizona trip with one county high point, and Harquahala Mountain was a real beauty with a nice physical challenge!
BONUS MATERIAL
Alternate Routes:
- Harquahala Mountain Backcountry Byway. This OHV-route approaches Harquahala Mountain’s southern side, and begins on Eagle Eye Road and runs all the way to the summit. This dirt road is only suitable for OHVs and 4×4 vehicles and 20.4 miles (round-trip).
Camping nearby:
- Centennial Park is located near Wenden, just 12 miles in west of the Harquahala Basecamp Trailhead. This county campground is open year-round and offers 50 campsites (mostly for RVs), water, showers, and it is co-located with a golf course/driving range. Cost: Dry camping ($10/night) and water/electric hook-ups ($20/night).
Resources:
- An Overview of Harquahala Mountain (Summit Post)
- Harquahala Mountains Wilderness (BLM)
- Harqualhala Peak Observatory
- Harquahala History (Hike Arizona)