Wednesday – 4/12/2023

  • Start: Pine Trailhead
  • End: Chase Creek
  • Distance: 17.6 miles + 1.6 mile walk out of Payson (19.2 miles total)

I just couldn’t get comfortable in the back of the cramped Kia Soul rental car last night, and I spent the night frustrated as I attempted to get some sleep. In hindsight, I probably just I should have found somewhere flat to set up my tent when I’d arrived in the dark. Maybe if I had, I could have gotten a better night’s rest instead of starting this thru-hike groggy and mentally fatigued.

Once the sun was up, I figured it was worth checking out the eastern end of the Highline Trail. I wandered about a quarter mile from the 260 trailhead, and my initial impression was that the path looked incredibly nice and well-groomed.

Yet, I knew this assessment could be misleading. Almost every trail looks great when you’re near the trailhead. That’s where ground is easiest to maintain, and usually where the trail gets the most foot traffic. The conditions are usually far different story once you get four – or fourteen – miles further in.

Nonetheless, my little reconnaissance would confirmed that the Highline Trail appeared to be snow-free and everything was good around here. I had nearly a week’s worth of food with my in the rental car, and I needed to make some decisions on where I wanted to cache some of this food.

I’d accepted that my original 115-mile loop adventure (which went both above and below the Mogollon Rim) was wholly impractical thanks to the current snowpack at higher elevation. I’d have to remain below the rim for this springtime trip, so I’d come up some possible alternatives.

  1. I could leisurely hike of the 58-mile Highline Trail over the six days I was in Arizona and mosey down the trail at a relaxed pace;
  2. I could be super ambitious and try to yo-yo the Highline trail — hiking from one terminus to the other, and then back again to essentially double the distance of my trip in that same time; or 
  3. I could figure out something else entirely that allowed me to thru-hike the Highline Trail and then explore some side trails or additional scenery below 7,000′ elevation. 

I nixed the easiest of the plans (i.e., option 1) almost immediately. Anything less than 15 miles per day would probably feel like dawdling, and I wasn’t out here in Arizona to just sleep under the stars. I wanted to push myself physically as I prepared for my upcoming Mt. Rainier summit bid.

In the end, I settled on hiking the Highline Trail with 4 days of food in my pack, deciding to cache the other 2.5 days near the 260 trailhead. If I felt strong enough to yo-yo the trail, I’d arrive at my cache by Friday evening. But I wanted (or needed) to hike slower, I’d figured still get to the trailhead by Saturday, and then I could adjust my hike’s itinerary accordingly.

260 Trailhead

Yep, That’s SNOW 

After stuffing several days worth of heavy food into an Ursack, I trotted off into the treeline in search somewhere safe to cache it. I needed to stow it far enough from the trailhead to keep it concealed from curious eyes (human and animal alike), but not so hide it so well that I couldn’t find it when I returned here in a few days’ time.

With that task done, the smart thing would have been to drive directly to Payson so I could get to the western end of the trail as early as possible. But I was still curious. I wanted to see what the top of the Mogollon Rim looked like in daylight. Last night’s u-turn at the visitor center revealed a ton of snow in the glare of my headlights. How bad was it really, I wondered? 

And so, I returned to the Mogollon Rim visitor center at nearly 7,600 feet elevation to survey the landscape in the light of day. It didn’t look nearly as bad as the Cascade Mountains near where I lived in the Pacific Northwest. But there was far more snow that I wanted to hike in. What’s more, any patch of ground not covered in snow seemed to be completely flooded from the snow melt. 

These were was the kind of conditions that would make finding a dry spot to set up a tent nearly impossible. The ground was oversaturated and mucky, reminding me of my miserable hike on the Lone Star Hiking Trail back in 2019. Seeing it made me glad I’d bailed on my original 115-mile loop.

Everything flat is flooded!

PINE TRAILHEAD

With my curiosity wholly satisfied, I drove back to Payson to drop off my one-way rental car. As I handed over the keys, I asked the agent at the Enterprise Rent-a-Car location if she would be generous enough to shuttle me to the Pine Trailhead just 15 miles up the road.

This request was a long shot, I knew. But I’d gotten the company to do something similar when I was hiking the Appalachian Trail – dropping the car in Carlisle, Pennsylvania, and then getting a ride back Pine Grove Furnace State Park (home of the Half-Gallon Challenge). Unfortunately, this rental agent demurred. Pine was outside her radius. I would need an alternate means to the trail’s western terminus on my own.

And so, I began the 25-minute walk to the northern end of Payson — where all the road traffic driving down AZ-87 would be headed toward Pine. It was worth trying to hitchhike to the trailhead before I needlessly parted with $40 of my hard earned money for one of the local shuttles

I stood there on the edge of the highway for the next 45 minutes without a single car even slowing down. The day was already heating up, and the back of my shirt was growing damp with sweat under my pack. I could feel my cheeks and nose starting to burn from the bright sun, and I worried I might not ever get to the trail at this rate.

In fact, I’d just given up and called a shuttle driver to arrange a ride when a nice lady named Jen pulled her SUV over and offered me a ride. Jen lived in Pine and was driving back home after her semi-weekly trip to swim laps in Payson. She said she never picked up hitchhikers, she told me, but something compelled her to stop for me today. What a gal!

Thank you for the ride Jen!

Once this accidental trail angel dropped me off at the Pine Trailhead, it was time to get the party started. I was finally at the Highline’s western terminus and ready to hike! It was already an hour later than I’d hope, but I wasn’t fretting. The April days were long enough that I should have no problem making 15-20 miles before the sun went down.

Before I started down the trail, I posed for a selfie near the trailhead signs, a feeling of warm nostalgia wash over me. It was only a little more a year since I last passed through here on my Arizona Trail thru-hike. Everything still looked the same, and the only really changes seemed to be that I was hiking solo this time around and I had a much closer different destination in mind. 

I strode over to the AZT’s trail register to sign my name – not sure why I was so eager to scan the list of trail names on the register. I didn’t know anyone hiking the Arizona Trail this spring. But perhaps it was just something I needed to reinforce that I wasn’t truly alone in this endeavor. That others just like me desperately craved the feeling of the trail under their feet too.

A laminated sign from the Arizona Trail Association sat inside the trail register warning hikers about the adverse conditions above the Mogollon Rim – a mere 20 mile tor our north. The ATA was recommending people postpone their current hikes until later in the season when the trail conditions improved. 

This new warning served as even more confirmation of what I’d seen with my eyes earlier this morning. My decision to avoid the trail above the rim was a solid one, assuming I didn’t want to trudge through deep snow or ford icy cold creeks that might be waist high.

A word of warning…

THE SAME, BUT DIFFERENT

Within 15 minutes of departing the trail register and making my way through the web of trails near Pine, I crossed paths with two day hikers. But after that, I seemed to have the trail completely to myself as I hiked east.

I’m not completely sure why I decided to I needed to tackle the trail this direction. Almost everyone else seems to hike the Highline Trail in the opposite direction, starting out at the 260 Trailhead then hiking west toward Pine. And there were plenty of valid reasons to follow the pack.

  • Hiking the Highline Trail westbound is physically easier as the trail ultimately loses elevation between the 260 Trailhead and the Pine Trailhead. 
  • Hiking west provides multiple easy bailout points in the first 20 miles of the trail if you get an injury or change your mind. 
  • And hiking west is also logistically easier because you end your adventure in Pine (rather than 30 miles from the closest town). 

Nonetheless, I was still mentally set on hiking this trail eastbound. Perhaps I felt like it was a continuation of what I started last year. The Highline Trail doubles as the Arizona Trail from Pine to Washington Park. Heading east meant I’d essentially retrace my footsteps until I reached that trail junction, and then I’d veer onto the path less traveled. And this was my solo hike, and I could go whichever way my heart desired.

Choose your own adventure!

As familiar as my surroundings looked during those first few miles, it also felt different too. Creek beds that had been bone dry last year were now flowing with water. It was even difficult to keep my shoes dry when I rock-hopped to their opposite banks. Everywhere I looked there was water, and I must have passed a dozen viable drinking sources in just the first few hours of the day. Now this was the benefit of a high snow year.

I was also greeted with plenty great views of the rim with snow still clinging to parts of the rocky escarpment. Wildflower were starting to bloom. All told, it was like I was on a completely new trail.

Wildflowers along the trail
Glimpses of the Mogollon Rim in the distance

GRAFFITI & Rocks

After walking for close to two hours without seeing a single soul, I stopped for lunch just beyond Pine Spring. The day felt brutally hot now in the 80°F sunshine, and I clamored for some precious shade from some juniper trees by the trail.

I definitely wasn’t used to this warm weather. I’d been careful to cover myself from head to toe with my long-sleeved sun hoodie, full-length leggings, a sun visor, sun gloves, and sunglasses. Yet it felt like the sunshine was boring right through those layers and searing my pale skin. What a difference a day (and a 1,700-mile plane ride) makes! Yesterday I was freezing in the PNW trying to avoid the cold rain on my way to the airport, and now I’m worried about too much sun.

I continued down the trail after my lunch break, spotting more white diamond trail markers affixed to the trunks of tall ponderosa pines. The trail seemed to be so well-marked through here, and I was grateful for all the work that went into this endeavor. Yet I was silently fuming too – because each diamond I hiked by appeared to have been recently defaced by some jackal with a sharpie marker. 

This is why we can’t have nice things… There’s always some selfish jerk out there who thinks he’s being funny or clever by carving his initials into fresh tree bark, or defacing a petroglyph, writing all over surfaces that don’t belong to him. 

Graffiti defacing the trail markers

I have no doubt this person thought their antics were relatively harmless. But why try to ruin other people’s experiences outdoors with such vandalism? My anger level seemed to rise each time I passed another ruined white diamond. What was wrong with these selfish idiots?!? 

I took several deep breaths trying to consciously lower my frustration. Just refocus on the trail and your other surroundings, I told myself.

Off to my north, there were now stunning, unobscured views of the Mogollon Rim coming into view. Red and tan bands of rocks striped the escarpment’s surface, while green trees carpeted the landscape below. THIS was why I was really here!

Views of the Mogollon Rim ahead

I was taking it all in and lost in the magic of the moment when something abrupt forced my attention back down to the path immediately in front of me. I’d just violently stubbed my big toe on a grapefruit-sized rock on the ground!

I’d just kicked a rock so friggin hard that I felt like I knocked my big toenail two inches backward into my nail bed! Tears were welling in my eyes as I cried out in pain. Damn it, that hurt! I was barely five miles into this hike and I was already injured.

Something nearly identical happened on my descent down Katahdin after the end of my Appalachian Trail thru-hike back in 2019. I was animately joking with my friend Luna instead of watching my footing, and I tripped over a rock that quite literally dislodged my big toenail.

The searing pain inside my left shoe felt just as horrible now as it had on that prior experience, and I limped my way down the trail trying to convince myself that it probably just felt worse than it really was. Nonetheless, I wasn’t taking any chances. I wouldn’t remove my shoe or even look at the injury until I got to camp, just in case I was wrong.

For Pete’s sake… this is why I stubbed my toe!

PUMA

As I continued to try to walk off the pain, I came across an unexpected souvenir on trail. Right in the middle of the clay-colored dirt path sat one lonely sock. It was black and gray, with the word PUMA was written across the forefoot in bright pink.

I debated whether to just step over the waylaid sock and keep hiking. But then my conscience got the better of me. This wasn’t a dirty, nasty sock that looked like it had been exposed to the elements for days. It looked like a brand new women’s running sock that accidentally fell out of someone’s backpack!

Found: one sock

What if it belonged to someone just ahead of me? If I dropped some gear on trail, wouldn’t I want the hiker coming right behind me to grab it and at least try to return it to me?? 

Besides, even if I didn’t catch up to the sock’s owner, wouldn’t it be better to dispose of the sock in a trash can then leave it out here like a piece of discarded litter? Hadn’t I just spent the last hour fuming over someone ignoring LNT principles? So, I picked up the sock and stuffed it the pouch of my pack holding my water bottles.  And with that I continued along the trail.

Leave No Trace

My left foot was still feeling tender when I accidentally kicked another rock on the trail sending sharp pains up my already traumatized big toe. What was going on with my and these rocks? Last year, I hiked the entire Arizona Trail – which is lousy with rocks – and I didn’t cause myself as damage as I had in the last few hours! Were my shoes too big? Why was I doing this over and over again?

Then I spotted two backpackers just up ahead of me and I felt a jolt of glee. Maybe I’d found to the person(s) who dropped the Puma athletic sock I found earlier. So I ignored the new searing pain in my foot and picked up my pace, hoping to close the gap quickly. 

Highline trail

When the duo stopped to take some photos, that was all that it took for me to catch up to them. I soon learned they were visiting from Las Vegas, Nevada, and here on an overnight backpacking trip. They’d set out with a plan to hike a 16-mile loop — hiking east on the Highline Trail, then ascending the Mogollon Rim on the nearby Webber Trail, before returning back down to their starting point via the Donohue Trail. It was essentially a mini-version of the loop adventure I’d wanted to hike above and below the rim.

However, Susan and Patrick had just discovered that the higher part of their route (the Webber Trail) was still completely covered in ice and snow. So we chatted for a bit about potential snow-free alternates, before I pulled the black and pink sock from my pack to ask if it belonged to either of them.

A sense of recognition crossed their faces, but then they both shook their heads. They’d seen the same sock on the trail earlier today too. But it wasn’t theirs. 

Oh well. I had to try. Maybe I’d catch the owner yet. After all, there were clearly other hikers out here. I just needed to cross paths with them. And so, I said goodbye, wishing them the best of luck on their hike before I continued down the trail once again.

Susan & Patrick from Las Vegas

GERONIMO

Barely a half mile after parting ways with the duo, I made it to the edge of Webber Creek. A flat, dirt parking area and signs for the Geronimo Trailhead sat on the opposite bank on the creek, and I could see another hiker already on the far side setting up camp at barely 2:30 pm.  Was that the sock’s owner?

Before I could find out though, I’d need to cross the raging creek in front of me, and fording this obstacle was going to be no easy endeavor. I was amazed, yet again, by how different the Highline Trail was this spring compared to last year. The creeks and rivers that had been completely dry in late March 2022 were now flowing at 100% capacity in April 2023.

None of the other water crossings I’d done earlier today even remotely compared to Webber Creek though. This creek was perhaps 20-25 feet across from bank to bank, and water was raging through it with serious ferocity. I couldn’t see anywhere shallow to ford amid the large submerged boulders that were forming rapids directly ahead of me.

I dropped my pack on dry ground and then walked about 200 yards up and down the bank in search of somewhere to cross other than where the trail met the water’s edge. But nothing seemed calmer or shallower as I roved up back and forth. Wild berry brambles lined the bank downstream, and there just weren’t any more appealing or easier options. 

Geronimo Trailhead sign and map

I returned to my pack and hollered over the creek to the hiker setting up camp to ask him where he’d crossed. I hoped he might have a better solution, but he just pointed to where I was standing on the trail. So, I hesitantly began poking my trekking pole in the water to see how deep it sank. 

The fast water immediately propelled the tip of my pole downstream nearly pulling it from my hand. I’d have to be very careful as I crossed and maintain at least three points of contact with the creek bed as all times if I didn’t want to have my legs swept out from under me by the raging, icy water.

Based some initial probing with my trekking pole, the water only appeared to be knee-deep though. So I pulled my leggings up above my knees then hoisted my pack on my shoulders and started to make my way across to the other side.

The first few steps into the frigid water were challenging, but the real surprise came when I got halfway across the creek and then the ground sharply dipped down. The cold water that had previously been rushing past my kneecaps was now a mere inch from my crotch. At 5’9” tall, with a long (33”) inseam, I knew this water had to be waist-deep on shorter hikers! Yikes!

Once I made it safely over to the far side and waded out of the water, the hiker who’d been watching the show with amusement came over to introduce himself. His name was Tom and he said he was thru-hiking the AZT. Apparently he wasn’t taking the warning from the trail register to heart. He intended to plow forward with his plans to hike north toward Utah despite the high snow just ahead. 

It seemed like a fool’s errand to me. I remembered post-holing in snow up to my knees and fording across so many cold creeks just above the rim last year. And that experience had been during a “normal” snowpack. Tom had real challenges in store if he thought he was going to tough it out through this abnormally high snow year.

I asked him if he’d dropped a sock as I pulled the pink and grey running sock out of my pack for the second time in just a half mile. He laughed and said, “that’s the sock that made me to twist my ankle!” 

He’d seen it lying on trail earlier this morning and was just in the midst of trying to determine if it was an animal, or piece of debris, or something else when he stepped in a shallow hole and inadvertently turned his ankle. It had taken a mile to walk off the pain, he said. But the sock definitely wasn’t his.

I guess its owner was still on the lam somewhere ahead of me. So I stuffed the sock back into my pack beside my water bottles and wished Tom good luck on the rest of his hike. 

Tom setting up camp near the Geronimo Trailhead

NOT REALLY 18 MILES!

The sky above me started to shift immediately after my creek crossing. The sun disappeared andwas no longer shining brightly against a blue sky. Gray clouds rolled in and a steady wind started picking up. Was an unexpected rainstorm might be coming my way – despite the 5-day forecast I’d checked (yet again) this morning before beginning my hike?

Even without the sun though, the air was still warm enough that my Nike leggings were completely dry barely 40 minutes after I crossed Webber Creek. Hiking in the arid Arizona climate is wonderful thing.

Tomorrow’s forecast was supposed to be dry too, but 15-20 degrees cooler than today’s temperatures. I can’t decide if that’s a good thing (since I won’t feel so parched) or a bad thing (since the desert gets so darn cold at night). I guess only time will tell.

Gray clouds rolling in above

The trail jogged north and the rim looked simply majestic juxtaposed against the red clay ground. Before I started hiking this morning, I had aspirations of making all the way to the Washington Park trailhead today. This would allow me to camp near the East Verde River to minimize my water carries. But this goal was looking less and less likely as the day wore on. 

All the trail signs said it was just 18 miles between the Pine Trailhead and Washington Park. That seemed like a feasible first day on the trail — even with my later than intended 10 am start. But it turns out those distances were off. Way off! 

According to my FarOut app, the distance between the two trailheads was now 19.8 miles. Nearly two miles further than I’d planned to hike. I’m not quite sure if this mileage disparity is a result really poor measuring or from re-routes and newly built trail that increased the trail’s length.

Trail re-route stake spotted on trail

Regardless the cause, I knew one thing was sure. I wasn’t going to hike the entire 20 miles to Washington Park before dark. My feet hurt from too many months of sitting on my butt indoors through the winter. My big toe felt like it was one fire from when I stubbed it on those rocks. And my pace was slower than normal due to the trail’s 6000-foot average elevation, which seemed to make even the easy climbs seem daunting.

All told, I probably needed to readjust my expectations. Last year while I was on the AZT, I’d set up camp near Chase Creek, and I knew there were some flat campsites there that weren’t too far from the water. Moreover, Chase Creek was 17.6 miles from the Pine Trailhead according to my FarOut app. That seemed to be a far more achievable goal for today given my glacial pace.

Construction equipment breaking new trail

MOLDY WATER

As I settled on this new plan of where to stop for the evening, I reached down for more water. One my two 1L water bottles was completely dry and the other was running low. I probably should have filtered more water when I was back at Webber Creek, but didn’t want to carry a bunch of water uphill. So now I was on the prowl for more water.

I eventually found a lovely running creek filled with nice cold water about a mile later. It’s wasn’t quite as big as Webber Creek, but the water was clear, and its icy temperature assured me it was being fed by the snow another 1000 feet higher somewhere above the rim.

After filtering two full liters of water, I did an honest assessment of my water consumption for the day. Even if I’d been fully hydrated when I hit the Highline Trail, I really should have consumed more than just two liters of water by 4 pm.

Highline Trail

It was a hot day. I was working hard going up and down this rugged path. Plus, I was hiking at higher elevation (6,000+ feet) and it was so arid out that the sweat was virtually evaporating off my skin as soon as it hit the air. 

I knew drinking a mere two liters of water over six hours of constant exercise was just NOT sufficient, and I could feel the throbbing dehydration headache coming on from my careless mistake. I needed to force myself to drink more regularly. And so I took the remaining bladder full of water and held the filter over my mouth to guzzle a liter of water right there on the banks of the creek.

As soon as the water hit my mouth though, I wanted to spit it out. It tasted like mold or mildew. What the heck?!? What was wrong with this water? I tried another swig. It was just as bad.

Then I reached down to grab one of the two bottles that held freshly filtered water from it. Yep. This water tasted mildewy too. Was there something in the creek that tainted it? Why did this water taste so horrible?

I looked back at my Sawyer Squeeze and wondered if perhaps my water filter was the culprit, not the creek water. But this was virtually a new filter. I’d purchased it last summer right before I took my trip to the Wind River Range in Wyoming. I used it for a total of maybe 9 days, then I’d driven home, cleaned my gear and stored it away just like I always did.

Was is possible that the filter wasn’t dry when I stored it? Had the hollow membrane inside gotten mildewy or moldy somehow? This had never happened in all the time I’ve been using Sawyer filters, and I always stored them the same way in the off-season. 

In that moment I wanted to kick myself. I’d done careful checks of almost all my gear before my trip. I set out my tent to make sure it didn’t need any repairs. I made sure my pack was in good condition and had a new waterproof bag lining the inside. I’d even tested out the fuel canister I purchased in the REI parking lot in Scottsdale last night, just to make sure everything worked properly.

Why had I never thought to run some water through my filter and test it out before my trip too???

What’s even more devastating was that my filter was my only really way to purify water out here. I wasn’t carry Aqua Mira drops (chlorine) or water purification tablets as a backup. Sure, I had a stove and that I could boil water on in a pinch. But I didn’t really have enough fuel to boil six days worth of water!! What the heck was I going to do??

Before panicking, I decided to see if I could “MacGyver” a way out of this dilemma. Maybe I just needed a ton of water to flush the filter clean. So, I set about running a liter of water through it backwards (to backflush it) and knocking any potential debris loose. Then I forced six liters though the filter in the normal direction to try to expel any remaining crap.

Time to MacGyver a solution

Meanwhile, I also poured 0.75 liters of the water from my water bottle into my cook pot and boiled it for three minutes. This way, I’d have at least some water than I could feel confident was free of bacteria or viruses, and then I started running the potential scenarios through my head. 

Would I have to bail on this hike less than a day into it because of a faulty water filter? Were my water bottles now tainted too? Should I try to hitch to town when I got to the Washington Park Trailhead tomorrow to buy a new filter and fresh bottles from the Walmart in Payson?

Or was I overreacting? My brain tried to rationalize staying on trail and driving on with the gear I had. I used to drink water straight from the hose as a kid, I told myself. And I’m pretty sure I also drank untreated water from streams too. I never got sick. But was I willing to flirt with drinking untreated water out here by myself — knowing that it could lead to something like giardia?

After a half hour, I was done flushing the filter. I’d boiled 0.75L of water in my pot and then cooled the full pot of water back down by placing it in a shallow part of the creek. It was time for a taste test. 

I sipped from the pot of boiled water first. It was horrible! Drinking this water might be safe, but it was wretched and still tasted like mold. But now it tasted like warm tea steeped through a moldy sock. I wanted to spit it out immediately. I would have been better off boiling unfiltered creek water if I intended to use boiling as my purification method for the rest of my hike.

Next, I sipped the newly filtered water. After flushing six liters (1.5 gallons) of water through my Sawyer Squeeze, it was better. Not 100%. There was still a faintly off-kilter taste. But it no longer tasted like a mouthful of moldy water. I could actually drink this.

If the bad taste diminished that much by just flushing six liters though the filter, then it stood to reason it would get even better as even more water went through it. But was this newly filtered water actually safe to drink? That was the million dollar question…

Gravity filtering my water

BUMPS IN THE ROAD

In the end, I decided to just roll with it and see how I felt in the morning. If my stomach was upset from the water when I woke up, I’d head back into town from Washington Park. But if I had no adverse effects, I’d just continue hiking east using my questionable filter until the end of this adventure. And then I’d worry about replacing it before my next backpacking trip. 

Right now, I needed to quickly pack up and get back onto the trail. It was close to 5 pm already and I’d just wasted nearly an hour with my water debacle, putting me even further behind schedule. I’d have to push if I wanted to get to Chase Creek and set up camp before dark.

Back to the trail

Although I tried to pick up my pace, the big toe I’d stubbed earlier today was throbbing. The pain was made worse anytime the trail lost elevation – forcing my foot to slide forward and pressing my injured toe to up against the toe box of my shoes. But I drove on like it didn’t even bother me. I was on a mission to get to camp.

I was closer to the rim now and higher in elevation than I’d been all day. The trail was following the folds of the escarpment weaving back and forth toward ravines and then back out again. The shadows grew longer as the sun dropped in the sky and I was now hurriedly hiking toward camp.

Great views with the shadow of the rim (behind me) on the trees

Eventually, around 6:40 pm, I made it to my destination. A small fire ring made from rocks rested beside the trail. Beyond it sat a nice flat spot suitable for tents, which had been clearly used many times before. I’d squeezed into this same wonderful campsite 13 months earlier with Volt and Elliot on my AZT thru-hike. But tonight I have it all to myself as I quickly set up my tent before the sun disappeared.

Just beyond my tent, a familiar sign from the Arizona Game & Fish Department warning that no fishing was allowed in the creek. I commented before that this seemed like an odd place for a sign, way out in the backcountry. But maybe the local fisherman were adventurous folks if there was trout to be caught.

Chase Creek

As the sun slowly disappeared and the star came out, I lay in my tent trying to will myself to cook dinner. I wasn’t the least bit hungry after a full day of hiking, but knew I needed to eat something — even if it was just so that I didn’t have to carry all this heavy food in my pack tomorrow. 

Today had been a pretty rough start to my Highline Trail adventure. Yet everything eventually worked out in the end. I just needed to continue to stay positive and enjoy the ride regardless of how many bumps in the road I encountered.

And with that, shoved some food in my mouth, turned on my headlamp, and set to tending to my injured foot in the vestibule of my tent. I still hadn’t looked at my big toenail yet, and I was afraid of what it would look like as I peeled off my sock. It still hurt like nobody’s business, but I needed to assess the damage. Days like this were was why I didn’t skimp on my first aid supplies.

That toe doesn’t look good!

Highlights

  • The Mogollon Rim was an absolutely beautiful backdrop to hike near today. I just love the geologic diversity in Arizona.
  • I lucked out with a hitch to the trailhead from a lovely woman from Pine, which saved me from shelling out $40 for a shuttle.
  • Water was so plentiful on the trail today that I don’t think I went an entire hour without seeing a viable source! But I wonder how many more swollen creeks like Webber Creek I might have to ford ahead.

Challenges

  • I wish I’d tested out my water filter back home to make sure it was in working condition. If I had, I could have avoided a really unpleasant surprise this afternoon. As a seasoned backpacker, I really should know better. Especially given how much I rely on this single piece of gear!
  • Stubbing my big toe (twice) on rocks hurt so friggin bad that I was almost certain the nail would be loose this evening. So far, I just have a large blister near the cuticle and a lot of swelling. But I know I’ll need to baby it the remainder of this hike.
  • The owner of the wayward Puma sock is still MIA. Maybe I’ll find him/her tomorrow.